Frustrated

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And if the initial isn't right, none of that other stuff really matters.

It won't be a torque monster down low with what you have, Period!
 
Mad Dart said:
A lower gear set like 3.91's will wake it up quite a bit!
Click to expand...

I agree that will help get the engine spooled up and into the usable RPM range

BUT

It won't help a base tune up that is not close to correct.

ex: 360, 10:1, 244 at .050 cam needed 24* initial and could have used a bit more.

It's a foundation thing... you don't generally build the framing and roof to a house then pour the slab and set it on the foundation. Pour your foundation, then worry about building the rest.
 
3" dual exhaust all the way out? If so, you may be losing a lot of bottom end from lack of back pressure... great for top end but, you'll lose some on the bottom...
 
To me, it sounds like you have a car that hooks hard, which is what most people want. Thats what your suspension modifications are intended to do, and it seems you built it well for that purpose.
If you want to burn rubber (one of my favorite past times:-D), you will probably want to change your rear gear and maybe try some smaller tires.
 
Well the distributor I have is a msd billet mechanical adv. I think the bushing is black 18* with a medium and a light spring.
 
Make a bigger bushing so it only has 8-12* max.

Want more grunt, put more initial in it.
 
well obviously we build these cars to have fun with them correct? The whole pupose is to have fun and who dosnt wanna burn em up every now and again
 
crackedback said:
I agree that will help get the engine spooled up and into the usable RPM range

BUT

It won't help a base tune up that is not close to correct.

ex: 360, 10:1, 244 at .050 cam needed 24* initial and could have used a bit more.

It's a foundation thing... you don't generally build the framing and roof to a house then pour the slab and set it on the foundation. Pour your foundation, then worry about building the rest.
Click to expand...

I knew you would pop me on that........haaaaaaa

I meant after the tuning/timing issues are fixed!

The initial timing is VERY low where you have it at no doubt and it should come on alot harder with that being fixed first and foremost!!

1) Ignition/Timing
2) Carb-Tuning
3) Suspension/Gearing
 
Compare the bushing you have. Smaller bushing allows more mechanical advance, bigger bushing is less.

good luck with it.
 
72plymouthscamp said:
well obviously we build these cars to have fun with them correct? The whole pupose is to have fun and who dosnt wanna burn em up every now and again
Click to expand...

Yep, gotta be able to smoke the tires.

Try a line loc and even wet the damn pavement if you have to because the car is built to plant the tires, but maybe get someone to help you tune that sucker to the optimum and you should be on your way to setting off some smoke alarms.

Good luck man, and keep us posted on what you figure out.
 
You truely have a mix-matched package for low end torque. The other guys have hit upon it.

Convertor is too large diameter

Too large of cam

Too large of exhaust size.

Traction aids aren't helping the situation.

You have torque the problem is that most likely it's peak is 3500 - 4000 or more. You need to get your motor to that RPM if you want the best chance of tearing up rubber.

Being you really don't want to change your engine package at this point. The easiest way to go do a bake show is raise the pressure in your tires to about 50psi.


Chuck
 
Man, I promise you, that convertor (11") is one of your main problems. I know you allready have it, but its killing your bottom end.
 
Once you get the tires going they will go like crazy. Cudaspaz hit upon it with the wet pavement thing.

Here is a low buck way that can be used at any time to get them going.

Take an old windshield washer tank with the electric pump mount it in your trunk above the rearend. Mount two washer nozzles in your wheel wells and put a switch on your dash. Viola, instant tire wetter.


Chuck
 
What do you know about the engine? What heads? How sure are you the compression is where you think? The few things that scream out to me are "318", "10.5:1", " 3" duals"... If I had to guestimate what's going on I'd say the engine is over cammed by about 12% and the true compression is closer to 9:2:1. The 292/.508 MP cam is around 248°@.050" which is HUGE for a mild 318. The KB-167s with the typical deck clean up cut, and 318 heads, with a std FelPro gasket brings it to about 9.2:1 static, and that cam, comes in around 7.5:1. Those add up to a soggy low end. You have the makings for a good combo. If it was me, before you do anything else, swap the cam for something in the 220°@.050 range.. NO larger than 225°. The convertor you have is ok. The 11" std performance convertor is fine but the 727 won't be as responsive as the 904 would in the same car. The engine's lazy so the convertor can't work right either. It's not the suspension or the displacement IMO. I tuned a mild 318/904/3.23 car that would spin the tires from a stop all the way into second (about 60'), then it caught and it had the same suspension mods and larger tires. Get your hands on a compression gage and post the test results after pulling all the plugs (warmed up) and the throttle wired open. My impression is it will be relatively low.
 
No im sure about what I said about the engine kb167 58cc mildly ported 302 heads zero deck height stock stroke 40 over wieand steath intake holley 670 street avenger carb plenty of fuel pressure the cam is 292 adv. its [email protected]
 
Even once you get the tune right, you need more gear and converter. Or less cam. A 318 with a 292 MP needs a 4500-5000 stall.
 
I'll weigh in here, it sounds like it's decision time. Firstly get your ignition dead nuts like Cracked says then you gotto decide that if you're going to keep that cam then you're going to need some decent gears like 3.91. With 3.91 gears you might even find that the converter will flash to 3800 which will be better for the 318. Either way those 2.94 gears are toast in my books.
 
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