Fuel Cell

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moparstud440

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For those of you that still have the stock truck pan with the spare tire well, but are using a fuel cell can you post some pictures of them. I'm wanting to change my dead head fuel system to a bypass system. I'm thinking of getting rid of my stock tank and going with a cell, but don't want to cut the trunk up. Or does someone make a stock tank that accepts a return line (Car is a 1973 Duster)?
 
Krusty trunk seal stripping 2.jpg


Krusty cell and pump install.jpg
 
There will a piece of metal between the back seat and the tank. .It fits well and the gas tank fill cap is from a marine boat with oring ,

20140517_170143 (1).jpg
 
You could probably just get a new tank for your car, and weld whatever bungs you might need before you put gas in it.
But for a cell, I built a welded together shelf for the cell to sit on, and be attached to, so that I didn't have to cut a hole in the trunk floor, and then build a skid plate for it.
Done that way for the cell in three different cars. (without spare tire wells)
Edit. I like the way MMissle did it too!
 
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For those of you that still have the stock truck pan with the spare tire well, but are using a fuel cell can you post some pictures of them. I'm wanting to change my dead head fuel system to a bypass system. I'm thinking of getting rid of my stock tank and going with a cell, but don't want to cut the trunk up. Or does someone make a stock tank that accepts a return line (Car is a 1973 Duster)?
It would probaly be cheaper to put a fuel cell in it. But a place called tanks Inc makes a fuel tank for your car.

 
Post 4 nailed it. I’ve done it twice and it’s easy.

Since I have the tank out, I buy a rear sump kit and move the outlet to the pump to the rear of the tank where it should be.

Then I buy steel -10x1/2 pipe male fittings (two of them) and I weld one up in the passenger side corner of the tank near the top and the other about in the middle of the tank and I use that for a vent.

As a general rule of thumb, you want the vent to be at least the diameter of the outlet. That’s why I use -10 for the vent because I use -10 for the pressure and return line.

Vent sizing is even more important with a return line because the fuel blowing back into the tank generates more gases (fumes) that need to be vented.

No need for a fuel cell and all that extra work.
 
Post 4 nailed it. I’ve done it twice and it’s easy.

Since I have the tank out, I buy a rear sump kit and move the outlet to the pump to the rear of the tank where it should be.

Then I buy steel -10x1/2 pipe male fittings (two of them) and I weld one up in the passenger side corner of the tank near the top and the other about in the middle of the tank and I use that for a vent.

As a general rule of thumb, you want the vent to be at least the diameter of the outlet. That’s why I use -10 for the vent because I use -10 for the pressure and return line.

Vent sizing is even more important with a return line because the fuel blowing back into the tank generates more gases (fumes) that need to be vented.

No need for a fuel cell and all that extra work.
not entirley so , I use 2 -1/8'' vents , recirculating fast 2.0 fuel inj. , 1200 cfm throttle body , fuel
outlets welded in the back bottom corners of a new tank , used 2 -1/2'' octagon shaped pipe couplings for them , after welding I took a long tapperd punch and drove thru the couplings till it wouldnt go any farther ( no metal drillings or shavings ) ., has worked well for about 10ish yrs ....no fuel starvation at all.
 
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