Fuel Gauge wiring (rewiring to fuel cell)

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J

JTNorton

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So, my question is basically whether I should tie these wires on my fuel cell (theyre for the built in level sender) into the blue (wiring diagram I pulled up said that it was for the gas gauge, and if it would work... Or should I get the corresponding female piece for whats on the wires for the fuel cell, tie that into the blue with a ground, and plug it in.

Now, IF tieing it into the wire will work, I know I SHOULD get the female connector, but at this point its about 'what will work at the moment' for me.

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No idea. Doesn't the cell have destructions?

Have you checked resistance? Is either wire grounded?

Last, the sender has to be the same resistance range AND TAPER (Mopars are NOT linear taper)
 
Hmmmm, I will check.
But no, it did not come with instructions, everything was pretty straight-forward with it up until this point.
When it comes to electrical related work, I am not a clever man.
 
One wire on the fuel cell is a ground, the other is the power.
Im assuming the blue (and only wire) is the original gas gauge's/power, because theres a metal clip at the end by where the original fuel rail is that was the original ground...
Im checking resistance here shortly.
 
JTNorton said:
One wire on the fuel cell is a ground, the other is the power.
Im assuming the blue (and only wire) is the original gas gauge's/power, because theres a metal clip at the end by where the original fuel rail is that was the original ground...
Im checking resistance here shortly.
Click to expand...

It's not exactly "power" so to speak. The factory gauge works a little bit like an ohmeter---it is measuring the resistance of the sender which varies with the arm position.. The functional path of the originial gauge is: Ignition switch...........to the cluster PC board........through the instrument voltage limiter (regulator).......to one stud of the gauge..........through the gauge and out the other stud.........through the harness back to the rear to the sender connection.....through the resistance of the sender.........and to ground

Without knowing "what that is" in your cell, it's a crap shoot. Why can't you get destructions? Is it used? You been to the manufacturer's website? Again, if it follows "GM" resistance, there is no way it will work with Mopar gauge.

If you can't find instructions, see if you can reach in the cell with a wire and manipulate the sender float.......or just turn the tank upside down to move it!!

Measure the resistance between the two connector terminals, and also from EACH of them to the tank ground. See if you can get a resistance change from empty to full

Here are the "general" Mopar resistances:

This is a gauge tester that someone kindly added the resistance values to:

About 74 ohms should cause the dash gauge to rest at empty

About 23 ohms should cause 1/2 gauge reading, and

About 10 ohms should cause the gauge to go to "full"

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I just went back to the site the fuel cell was purchased from. Ots a 0-90 ohm fuel sender. So Im assuming itll work with this car. Im trying/testing it now. Thanks guys, very helpful
 
No, 0-90 is not Mopar. I'd measure it and see what you actually have. If you can get it close to the 10-74 ohm Mopar range, there's a device you can buy for about 50 bucks called a meter match that allows you to re-calibrate it at several points

The OTHER thing is..........does it go the right direction? If it's 0 at empty and 90 at full you are screwed
 
Dang.
Sooooo, could I wire in another gauge cluster off of the fuel cell instead? Id just find one that fits where the original is and replace it.
Because that seems more reasonable.
I've "frankensteined" most of this car anyway, so if thats an easier route it'd fit my current method rather well.
(I wanted to keep it original, but I guess that wont be the case.)
 
First thing is to figure out what you have. You may be able to adapt the one in the cell. I would not hold my breath. "They tend" to lean towards GM stuff LOL
 
Well, I looked and did some tinkering. Im just going to run another gauge off the dash that will work, and remove the original.
This cell wont work. And since the trunk is already cut out, with new metal and braces welded in, and the cell bolted down, it makes more sense to run a gauge that the cell is compatible with, rather than finding a cell that would work.
I appreciate the info though, I wouldve sat there for another week trying to make it work before I gave up lol.
 
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