Fuel Inlet Needle question

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Hilderbrand1983

Hilderbrand1983

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First things first, you all have been so helpful as I've learned how to get along with my 1967 Dart. Thank you!!!

Warning: Stupid question follows!

I'm working with my 1967 Dodge Dart 270 (225cc engine, 3.7L, 1bbl Holley carb). I'm in the process of replacing the fuel system from the gas tank up to the carburetor (not replacing the carb).

I removed the fuel line from the spot marked "Fuel Inlet Needle Valve and Seat" as found on page 14-16 of the 1967 Dart factory service manual. I was having a hard time getting the nut on the line to turn, so I turned the larger, 5/8" nut at the carb. The needle valve dropped to the ground before I had a chance to look at it.

Here's the stupid question -- when I replace this part, does the pointed end of the needle valve face inward (toward the carb) or outward (toward the fuel line)? If you need pictures, I can take them.
 
Pointy end toward the fuel line, but the 2-piece axial-flow inlet needle/seat is not correct for the Holley 1920—it's a cheap aftermarket piece that can cause problems in that carb. The original was a 1-piece needle/seat assembly with radial flow. Much (much!) better to get a carb kit from www.daytonaparts.com that has what they call their "Daytona Float Valve", which is a radial-flow 1-piece assembly with some other design advantages.

(Unfortunately, no kits—not even the Daytona kits—come with the correct float adjustment tool any more; all you get is a useless strip-of-paper ruler. One workaround for this is to buy a new old stock kit off eBay and raid it for the float adjustment tool.)

Carburetor operation and repair manuals and links to training movies and carb repair/modification threads are posted here for free download. Tune-up parts and technique suggestions in this thread.

And by all means get the three books described in this thread as quickly as you can; they will pay for themselves just about immediately.
 
slantsixdan said:
Pointy end toward the fuel line, but the 2-piece axial-flow inlet needle/seat is not correct for the Holley 1920—it's a cheap aftermarket piece that can cause problems in that carb. The original was a 1-piece needle/seat assembly with radial flow. Much (much!) better to get a carb kit from www.daytonaparts.com that has what they call their "Daytona Float Valve", which is a radial-flow 1-piece assembly with some other design advantages.

(Unfortunately, no kits—not even the Daytona kits—come with the correct float adjustment tool any more; all you get is a useless strip-of-paper ruler. One workaround for this is to buy a new old stock kit off eBay and raid it for the float adjustment tool.)

Carburetor operation and repair manuals and links to training movies and carb repair/modification threads are posted here for free download. Tune-up parts and technique suggestions in this thread.

And by all means get the three books described in this thread as quickly as you can; they will pay for themselves just about immediately.
Click to expand...

Thanks -- you're awesome!

EDIT: Just to let you know, I went ahead and ordered the books you recommended in the other thread. I'm not brave enough to tackle rebuilding the carb, but eventually I may be with these resources at hand! Thanks again!
 
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slantsixdan said:
Y'welcome. You may want to take this opportunity to do the Fuel line mod.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I'll be saving the link. Not sure if I'm skilled enough to modify things on the car just yet. I'm still in the "building experience" mode, learning how things come apart and (hopefully!) go back together. For your edification, I've attached a photo with the old and new fuel tanks. The old one is ready to be sent to the Daisy Hill Fuel Tank Farm so it can run and play with all the other old fuel tanks. It has a slow leak in the bottom and the inside is filled with solids of some sort. The new one won't go on until I get a new j-bolt for the strap (coming in the mail, likely by the end of the week).

20160713_092243.jpg
 
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