Fuel Line Choice and size

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Yea, that’s a huge pump, overkill. Lol. -8 or 10 with that. Carb bypass regulator.

I have an Aeromotive stealth 340lph pump with -8 feed and return lines.

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If its a stock tank, sender/float/ 3/8 line $70 at Summit
You obviously know absolutely nothing about the pump he is using pictured, nor of the level of car he's building. He'll need every bit of the 5/8 line.
 
You can’t get push rods that are too stiff, too much ignition or too big a fuel pump. Those Holley pumps are pretty much bargain basement stuff. The OP bought nice stuff. It needs a #10 line to feed it. Then he needs to figure out how much fuel he will be returning at WOT and size the return line accordingly. Or he can use a 10 line for the return and be done with it.
Yeah, I was jokin at first about the line being a reserve tank, but he's gonna need every bit of it with that pump.
 
Good evening all. Plugging away on my duster and getting to the fuel line and Carb combo.
Using a Magna Fuel Quick Star 300 pump which comes with #10 fittings. Not sure if #10 is overkill for fuel line though. Motor is a 340 with 10:1 w2 with a strip Dominator, 8 inch converter with a brake and 456's. Some street some track. Motor was dynoed with an old 750 DP and a new QF750 because I ran the Holley prior build and my builder had the QF. Both pulled just about the same at 500 plus HP. What are your thoughts on fuel line size and Carb selection?? Thanks all and enjoy the holidays!!!
Got any pictures of this beast? We'd love to see it.
 
You can’t have too big a supply if running a pump that large and only making 500hp. You can have too small a return though. Make sure as **** not to restrict the inlet of the pump and make sure as **** it’s gravity fed at all times (read: mount below tank level and fed from a baffled sump). Those are keys to making a big electric live a long happy life. I’d run -10 the whole way from tank to regulator and 2 -8s from reg to carb. And I’d run a -8 return. My 2 cents.
 
Yea, that’s a huge pump, overkill. Lol. -8 or 10 with that. Carb bypass regulator.

I have an Aeromotive stealth 340lph pump with -8 feed and return lines.

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View attachment 1715841206
I've always wanted one of those chrome alt cases. Which one/brand is that?


Ive run the same kragen auto listed for '70 340 dart with both a stock head 340 with .528 cam and a 410 sr and stock 5/16 fuel line and never ran put of fuel. In general..
I wonder if anyone has tried using the stock stuff that seems to work fine for say 440 6 packs 340 6 packs 383 etc.. and then swapped over to the 3/8 & $300+ fuel pumps.
 
Ill try again, ahate the purpose of the return?


The return is so you don’t dead head the pump. A fuel pump (at least the pumps we are talking about in this thread) is just like an oil pump in that when the bypass opens, fuel is dumped right back into the inlet side of the pump. It’s not a good idea for an oil pump and it’s a worse idea for a fuel pump.

Think about the fuel system as a system and not a bunch of individual pieces and you have to include everything from the float bowls and floats back to the tank.

Once the pump has filled the system and the floats have moved up and shut off the needle and seat, there is pressure building in the feed line from the bottom of the regulator (talking about a dead head regulator, not a bypass regulator) back to the pump. Whatever the bypass is set at (lets assume 15 psi for now) the pressure builds IN THE LINE back to the bypass and then it opens and sends fuel back to the inlet side of the pump. How long do you think that took?

Now the pump is bypassing. As fuel is used from the float bowls (the bigger the load the more fuel used and the more fuel you need) the float drops, the needle and seat opens up and fuel flows into the bowl. That starts to drop the pressure in the line before the regulator. And that pressure drop has to be lower than 15 psi, and it has to go all the way back to the bypass. When that happens, the bypass closes and fuel pressure builds up in the line again until the line pressure hits 15 psi and it starts all over again.

How much line from the pump to the regulator? 8 feet? 9 feet? 10 feet? Whatever it is, it is. So the time it takes for all that to happen may be a small number but it is significant in terms of how fast you can get fuel past the needle and seat, and how fast you can build pressure back in the feed line to the regulator.

Now consider a bypass system with a bypass regulator. I never put the bypass at the pump, or it’s essentially the same as a dead head system as far as the response time of the fuel system.

With a bypass regulator, near the carb where it should be, keeps the line pressure much closer to bypass pressure. It also reacts much quicker since the pressure drop to get fuel flowing only has as much line as there is from the carb(s) to the regulator and not the 8 feet (or more) of line with the dead head system. Response time is significantly reduced with a bypass system, the pump stays cooler, fuel is not bypassed back into the inlet side of the pump but rather back to the tank. This also heals keep the fuel in the feed line cooler because it’s not sitting in that line, waiting for a pressure drop to get fuel moving.

I can’t think of a reason why anyone making over 400 hp would ever use a mechanical pump, and why you wouldn’t buy the biggest pump and run a return system is beyond me. Aside from the initial investment there is no reason not to do it. It’s just a better system.
 
I can’t think of a reason why anyone making over 400 hp would ever use a mechanical pump, and why you wouldn’t buy the biggest pump and run a return system is beyond me. Aside from the initial investment there is no reason not to do it. It’s just a better system.

Many came that way, mechanical pump.
Now switch mechanical pump to belt driven water pump. Aside from that comparison imo its the line between race or race tech meets street/strip or hotrodder.
I'm all for 3/8 line and its jmo anyways.. but that's why I asked the question of our members who have switched while maintaining the same motor combination.
Or a dyno test. Maybe engine last'rs tested this already. In sure it's been done and the outcome circulated..and misapplied interpreted 6 ways to Sunday.
 
I've always wanted one of those chrome alt cases. Which one/brand is that?
I’m not sure what exact one it is. I bought it at a swap meet 10 years ago. It’s a chrome 60 amp externally regulated alternator. I would prefer a polished case over the chrome.
This is the closest one that would compare to it.
CHRYSLER Summit Racing SUM-812117 Summit Racing™ Alternators | Summit Racing

With that said, I will be swapping over to a Denso 60 amp internally regulated, but still a 3 wire. I do not like 1 wire alternators.

Never mind the pink, I get all my starters and alternators rebuilt from a local shop, and he always accents my stuff with pink as an inside joke, that never dies.

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Got any pictures of this beast? We'd love to see it.
I tend to have an issue with sharing my wares on the Interweb, but here goes nothing. Its a work in progress that hopefully is getting a bump in the butt since i retired a month ago!! Honest critique is always appreciated as is advice from the experienced.

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You can’t have too big a supply if running a pump that large and only making 500hp. You can have too small a return though. Make sure as **** not to restrict the inlet of the pump and make sure as **** it’s gravity fed at all times (read: mount below tank level and fed from a baffled sump). Those are keys to making a big electric live a long happy life. I’d run -10 the whole way from tank to regulator and 2 -8s from reg to carb. And I’d run a -8 return. My 2 cents.
What Im leaning towards.
 
The return is so you don’t dead head the pump. A fuel pump (at least the pumps we are talking about in this thread) is just like an oil pump in that when the bypass opens, fuel is dumped right back into the inlet side of the pump. It’s not a good idea for an oil pump and it’s a worse idea for a fuel pump.

Think about the fuel system as a system and not a bunch of individual pieces and you have to include everything from the float bowls and floats back to the tank.

Once the pump has filled the system and the floats have moved up and shut off the needle and seat, there is pressure building in the feed line from the bottom of the regulator (talking about a dead head regulator, not a bypass regulator) back to the pump. Whatever the bypass is set at (lets assume 15 psi for now) the pressure builds IN THE LINE back to the bypass and then it opens and sends fuel back to the inlet side of the pump. How long do you think that took?

Now the pump is bypassing. As fuel is used from the float bowls (the bigger the load the more fuel used and the more fuel you need) the float drops, the needle and seat opens up and fuel flows into the bowl. That starts to drop the pressure in the line before the regulator. And that pressure drop has to be lower than 15 psi, and it has to go all the way back to the bypass. When that happens, the bypass closes and fuel pressure builds up in the line again until the line pressure hits 15 psi and it starts all over again.

How much line from the pump to the regulator? 8 feet? 9 feet? 10 feet? Whatever it is, it is. So the time it takes for all that to happen may be a small number but it is significant in terms of how fast you can get fuel past the needle and seat, and how fast you can build pressure back in the feed line to the regulator.

Now consider a bypass system with a bypass regulator. I never put the bypass at the pump, or it’s essentially the same as a dead head system as far as the response time of the fuel system.

With a bypass regulator, near the carb where it should be, keeps the line pressure much closer to bypass pressure. It also reacts much quicker since the pressure drop to get fuel flowing only has as much line as there is from the carb(s) to the regulator and not the 8 feet (or more) of line with the dead head system. Response time is significantly reduced with a bypass system, the pump stays cooler, fuel is not bypassed back into the inlet side of the pump but rather back to the tank. This also heals keep the fuel in the feed line cooler because it’s not sitting in that line, waiting for a pressure drop to get fuel moving.

I can’t think of a reason why anyone making over 400 hp would ever use a mechanical pump, and why you wouldn’t buy the biggest pump and run a return system is beyond me. Aside from the initial investment there is no reason not to do it. It’s just a better system.

@Rat Bastid
Thank you for this response. I was considering going from the pump back to the tank for the return but your thorough explanation makes a lot of sense. Most likely the way i will be plumbing it!! Thanks!!
 
All,

Thanks for the replies!! I know for a small motor it seems overkill but thats the way I roll with a lot of stuff!! LOL Besides if it doesnt run the numbers Im looking for Im gonna juice the hell out of it!!!
Merry Christmas all!!
 
@Rat Bastid
Thank you for this response. I was considering going from the pump back to the tank for the return but your thorough explanation makes a lot of sense. Most likely the way i will be plumbing it!! Thanks!!
Wait explain your thoughts a little please. You SHOULD be running the return from the regulator all the way back to the tank. Your response sounds like you’re not going to do that.
 
Wait explain your thoughts a little please. You SHOULD be running the return from the regulator all the way back to the tank. Your response sounds like you’re not going to do that.

@TT5.9mag
Yes, Agree. I will be running return from the regulator. Magna fuel makes the provision to run return from the pump housing to the tank, but I can see from Rat's explanation how that would be similar to deadheading. Im gonna go from Cell to pump with 10. From Pump to regulator with 10 then 2-8's to carb. Return line will be 8 from regulator back to cell. Thanks!!!
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@TT5.9mag
Yes, Agree. I will be running return from the regulator. Magna fuel makes the provision to run return from the pump housing to the tank, but I can see from Rat's explanation how that would be similar to deadheading. Im gonna go from Cell to pump with 10. From Pump to regulator with 10 then 2-8's to carb. Return line will be 8 from regulator back to cell. Thanks!!!View attachment 1715842591
Perfect
 
All,

Thanks for the replies!! I know for a small motor it seems overkill but thats the way I roll with a lot of stuff!! LOL Besides if it doesnt run the numbers Im looking for Im gonna juice the hell out of it!!!
Merry Christmas all!!
Well, you want overkill? I'll give you over kill. I'm fixin to put a Ford 9" in a 64 Valiant that's STAYING slant 6 powered. How's that? lol
 
Well, you want overkill? I'll give you over kill. I'm fixin to put a Ford 9" in a 64 Valiant that's STAYING slant 6 powered. How's that? lol
Ford 9 inch!,you might as well install a -10 fuel line and big electric pump while your at it.
 
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