TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
@plymouth67 which Earls fuel filter are you using?
I believe its a 230206ERL.@plymouth67 which Earls fuel filter are you using?
I couldn't get the damn thing apart..lol. It is between regulator and carb.That’s a prefilter, 85 micron. Is it before the pump or after the pump before the carb? Those are the exact filters Aeromotive claims do NOT have enough surface area and cause lots of problems. Have you disassembled it and looked at the screen?
Freidburger is great I like that show, but, pulling the snot out of an engine on a dyno is not even close to getting it to work on the road.It is possible, With the right pump. On the engine masters show Freiburger just made over 1000 hp on a BBC with a tunnel ram and two 4s naturally aspirated, all fed by a mechanical pump.
Nice graph, I agree it all looks good on paper. Now let me see it work in the car not in an Engineering lab that gathers data for the Marketing department.@512Stroker Im in the group that says a turret style mechanical can feed a 512. Let me back it up with this:
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This data is for a 325 HP 340 but even if you double the horsepower to a very hot 512's potential 650HP all 3 besides the Holley 80 are still capable of feeding that per that graph..and he's losing the fuel pressure at a few seconds out of WOT. Wish we could see if the pump rod is seizing up after a WOT run, then any mechanical pump you run is going to go to zero. Maybe worth a shot to remove the pump rod and check it for galling or run a crocus cloth over it to knock down any high spots? I think the OP may need to get a remote gauge and monitor when the pressure really starts to drop. The pumps are proportional to engine RPM to a point but by design, they top out at the prescribed PSI or close to it under no load conditions.
It works great.Freidburger is great I like that show, but, pulling the snot out of an engine on a dyno is not even close to getting it to work on the road.
Either get it apart or remove it just for a test.I couldn't get the damn thing apart..lol. It is between regulator and carb.
Very nice I like it.It works great.
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I tend to agree with you. For this (mechanical pump and big hp) all things need to be absolutely perfect.Very nice I like it.
I will still stand by my statement
An open hood drag car is still a long way from what the OP is trying to do.
Excellent points. I’m wondering if there is vacuum (lots) from restriction on the inlet will anything help, after the fact.If your line vapor lock is happening after a WOT, its getting heat soak from a header/exhaust pipe. Shield or wrap the fuel line prior to the pump. If you use the corvette vented fuel filter and your return line, it can't vapor lock up there (past pump) as the (boiling fuel) pressure is going to be vented to the tank via the 1/4 return line (and possible overcome that 9.5 psi issue) . If the fuel is boiling in the supply line it will expand and force itself out the tank end as there is less resistance in that direction. then youll have a dry line, no pump output pressure and carb bowls that are empty. Worth a shot to shield or wrap those fuel lines where they pass a hot surface if not already shielded.
This is why I'm going to a regulator with a return side on it. The regulator will be here Wednesday and we shall see if that solves it or, if an electric fuel pump is in my future..the bypass fuel filter will also cycle the fuel in the supply lines to prevent the lines from getting hot enough to vaporize the fuel. They will be (always flowing) liquid cooled. The space shuttle rocket motors used something similiar, used the super cooled fuel to cool the nozzles by pumping it through the nozzle walls prior to burning it. They factored in a few of the lines bursting (eg. 28) and on one mission they counted 26 lines failed on the post flight check. If 28 burst the sensors would have picked up a dip in fuel pressure and that engine would have shut itself down and most likely would have aborted that mission.
No sirDoes it do it worse in any particular gear?
Wow you went all out!I ditched the mechanical pump for an Aeromotive stealth tank with a 340LPH pump. It required a return style regulator setup with my particular fuel system. They make A, B and E body tanks.
We made the spacer for the tank to help with any vibration. It wasn't 100% necessary.
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Wow you went all out!
3 regulators or am I seeing triple vison.
Does it work?
Did it solve your problem?There is a regulator for the carb, one for the nitrous and the one on the end sets the return pressure. The in tank pump operates at EFI pressures and therefore must be regulated way down for a carbureted application.
Nice fuel system.I ditched the mechanical pump for an Aeromotive stealth tank with a 340LPH pump. It required a return style regulator setup with my particular fuel system. They make A, B and E body tanks.
We made the spacer for the tank to help with any vibration. It wasn't 100% necessary.
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Did it solve your problem?