Fuel Sending Unit Question

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340SNOTCH

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First a big THANKS to REDFISH for helping me diagnose by fuel gauge problem! I am wanting to purchase my 5/16 sending unit for my car today. Summit has a Goodmark for $99.99 and Right Stuff Detailing for $64.95. Has anyone used either of these or recommend another brand or place to purchase a sending unit? Here are photos of them. I am wondering if paying the $99 for the Goodmark is worth it. The Goodmark is on the right.

sending unit 1.jpg


sending unit 2.jpg
 
I bought a 5/16 sender from Vans Auto on ebay for about 60.00 Its not stainless but it works fine. OEM wasn't stainless either. In any case, reuse your original lock ring. Some of the repop lock rings are thinner and cause leaks.
 
I have been trying to burn some gas out of the car before replacing the unit. I'm ready to knock this out and work on my next problem the temp gauge.
 
Might be worth thinking about buying the 3/8 unit
incase you might upgrade the fuel system to handle
a more potent motor in the future.
 
I will always keep the 340 that it came with and will only do a mild build when it's that time. I guess 340 cars came with the 5/16 from the factory?The 3/8 must of went on the 383 cars. It probably is worth considering though.
 
Unless you change everything all the way to the carb, it wont make a difference. Well except at install, you would need 5/16 to 3/8 X 4" in a neoprene fuel line.
 
I found this 5/16 on Ebay from Rocket Restorations for $49.99 plus $6 for shipping. This one should do fine. It's half the price of the Goodmark. Doesn't sound like anyone has had any issues with the different brands, so I might as well pay $49 instead of $99.

u111.jpg
 
Redfish is right. I bought a new sending unit and the lock ring was too thin. I had to use the old one and luckily I didn't maul it when I removed it. Are you using a lock ring wrench? If so, it seems they fit the new lock rings but not the old so you have to open one of the notches a bit with a dremmel tool.
 
Thought about buying a lock ring tool off Ebay that is supposed to work on my car. I dont know hard it is going to be to get off after 40 plus years and I want to use it again as Redfish suggested.
 
It actually came off very easily. I did use a brass tool to remove it as I didn't have the tool until I was ready to install it. It's just a pressure fit. Make sure you use a brass tool so you don't get a spark.
 
Speaking of fuel tanks does anyone have any suggestions about the main fuel line replacement and whats the best option on a budget? I am replacing the rusted gas tank w/ a new unit and I want it to look right and work. I also have considered the $50 ebay sending units, since the local parts store wants $120 for theres.
 
You can always adapt your lines down from 3/8 to 5/16, but if
you decide to increase your fuel line size to 3/8 in the future,
you would have to pull the tank and replace the unit again.
Just trying to be helpfull and save you bucks and work in the future.
Good luck.
Carry on.
 
Thought about buying a lock ring tool off Ebay that is supposed to work on my car. I dont know hard it is going to be to get off after 40 plus years and I want to use it again as Redfish suggested.

Go to autozone and rent their fuel pump installation kit. Comes with lock ring removers, brass punch and a rubber mallet among other things
 
I bought the cheap sending unit off of Ebay and almost lost my mind trying to get the thing to seal!!! I ended up buying a whole new gas tank and sending unit from www.gastanks.com
 
That is what I wanted to avoid. This seems like a pretty easy job, but my luck I'll leak gas after install and catch the garage on fire.
 
... but my luck I'll leak gas after install and catch the garage on fire.

Or how about waking up TWICE in the middle of the night because you smell gas. Go out in the garage and it had dripped all over the floor. It wasn't dripping when I parked it, but after the metal cooled and contracted. It started dripping. I was not the most popular person in the house on those nights.
 
You shouldn't have a problem. Clean the general area before taking anything apart. Dont use pliers to try and adjust the keeper to tank spacing. That could alter the tanks sealing surface as cause a problem. Hold the sender and seal in place with one hand and start the locking engagement with the other. Get it as tight as you can by hand. Use gloves. Cuts with gas in them are no fun. Use brass pecker to rotate lock ring fully against the stops. Happy moparing.
 
Check out 1A Auto on ebay. I paid ~$60, but have seen them for~$47 since. Stainless-steel, 3/8" outlet, 1/4" return, made in Taiwan. Haven't installed yet but it looks fine. Comes w/ lock ring and gasket.
 
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