Fuel tank/sender question

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Yes you can. Get as much gas out as possible. But if it has less than 1/2 tank you will probably be ok.

It is easier if you jack up the body and let the axle hang but is not significantly more difficult by just lifting the rear.


I used the flat type remover wrench

This is just a respective image.

I did have to file one tooth down for it to fit correctly

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What's your plan, repair, replace?

What are the symptoms?


My vote is repair if OEM

Replace if it is aftermarket.
 
Its OEM and worked fine, just when I siphoned out the 4yr old gas out I hit the sender/float with the hose. Now gauge doesnt work. I'll remove and see what's going on(fingers crossed).
Thanks
Dana67Dart said:
What's your plan, repair, replace?

What are the symptoms?


My vote is repair if OEM

Replace if it is aftermarket.
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Fyi, for the future, blow into the hose as you submerge it into the tank. When you hear bubbles you only need another few inches

Or hook up a hose to the outlet tube of the sender and pull the fuel from there.



I got lucky with my dad's dart. It sat for 4 + years with 1/4 tank or there abouts.

I filled the tank to dilute the old gas and ran it down to empty then filled it a couple more times.

I knew I was going to rebuild the carb down the road.

It even started and ran on the old gas.
 
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In case you have not seen an OEM sender it looks like this (online photo missing intake filter)

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Hopefully you just pushed the float arm past the pickup tube
 
The wrench is not necessary. A brass drift and a few taps with a hammer will get it loose. or a hardwood rod if you don’t have a brass drift. Steel not advised.
 
mvh said:
The wrench is not necessary. A brass drift and a few taps with a hammer will get it loose. or a hardwood rod if you don’t have a brass drift. Steel not advised
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That's true and I have done it both ways but I can say that the right tool made it so much easier and I had an infinite amount of control
 
I don't think you'll successfully get it out with much fuel in the tank. Punch and hammer
 
67Dart273 said:
I don't think you'll successfully get it out with much fuel in the tank. Punch and hammer
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Depending on what you mean by "Much fuel", I would agree. I have taken a unit out of my 69 Barracuda FB twice with the tank still in the car. Once to replace the sending unit with an aftermarket unit from Classic Industries (it works fine; maybe I was lucky), and once to fix a leak gasket. I got it down to about a quarter of a tank each time and had no problems. If it was just slightly under half, I can see having a problem.
 
Steve, here is a photo of my dart body weight on the axle.

Sorry it's a bit blurry.

But you can see it can easily be reached and removed with body weight on the axle.

I may have been a bit too confident with the just under 1/2 tank but there is 3+ inches between the bottom of the sender and the bottom of the more rectangular part of the tank.
1/4 would be much safer!

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Last time I had to change a failed sender, I jacked up only the driver's side of the car high as I could get it. Whatever amount of fuel that was left in the tank went away from me and where I was working.
 
harrisonm said:
Depending on what you mean by "Much fuel", I would agree. I have taken a unit out of my 69 Barracuda FB twice with the tank still in the car. Once to replace the sending unit with an aftermarket unit from Classic Industries (it works fine; maybe I was lucky), and once to fix a leak gasket. I got it down to about a quarter of a tank each time and had no problems. If it was just slightly under half, I can see having a problem.
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I would generally agree, and depends on how you have the car raised. Try and keep the rear lower, LOL
 
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I have never used one of those wrenches. I have a stick of 1/2" dia brass about 14" long. That and a small hammer gets the job done.
 
And I have used a screwdriver to remove a dash bezel, but the right tool makes it much easier with less chance of damage / failure
 
I used this one on my 72 OP. Not the cheapest, but no leaks, it works and registers accurately. I too opted to reuse the oem locking ring vs the new one. Used brass drift to loosen the ring.

Be well folks.

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Well, that was easier then I thought. Jacked car up and put on axle stands(I like the stance lol). Used a long, sqaure shafted screw driver and pried the lock ring ccw loose, worked like a charm.
Repop. In good shape, but float took on fuel, so a pinhole somewhere. That was more than likely from me hitting it as it ohmd out pretty close to specs I've seen on here. The float arm felt like it was hitting detents in a places? Once I opened it up I saw where the wrappings had spread and were the "detents". I decided to use a spare repop I had. Checked float, no leaks. Float arm went smooth with no "detents" and ohms were pretty close to spec, 10.0-75.0
Lock ring appears repop, that could be why it was easy to remove?
Gasket wasnt bad, but was showing some wear so put in a repop lock ring gasket set. Hope it's a non issue!
Trying to install the spare repop is a pain! I've tried several different ways to try and weasel in with no go. Tomorrow I'll drop the tank some and see if that helps. I've already drained the tank.
Oh ya, I noticed the sender I removed had a set screw that was to adjust the length/height if float arm.

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Rather than dropping the tank,

Support the body and lower the axle. You could even remove the shocks to get more room.


I find accessing it from the passanger side works best.
 
Well after trying to install for a while I realized I installed the float the wrong way! :BangHead: Fixed that and installed ez pz.
Cleaned up ground strap and installed new gasket and lock ring . Got gauge movement after 3 gallons. Installed 3 more, for approximately 6 gallons total. Gauge reads slightly above 1/4 so I think its "close enough " in accuracy. Make sure theres no leaks and give it a fill up in spring.

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