Fuse Block messed up

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fdharper

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Palm Coast, Florida
I just rebuilt my carb and got the s/6 running. When I tried several accessories wipers, dash & dome lights, etc. they were not working. When I checked the fuse block (see pic) the accessory was empty and not even equipped to hold a fuse. I need to know all the accessories this fuse would cover. I realize there appears to be other issues and I need suggestions to remedy the accessory situation. As usual, thanks in advance.

FUSE BLOCK.jpg
 
What year and model?
That fuse space is often open, used for dealer installed options I believe.
Download your correct year and model Factory Service Manual at Mymopar.com for free.
It will have all your wiring diagrams in it, as well as everything else you could possibly want to know about your car.
Service Manuals – MyMopar
 
Looking at the FSM and wiring diagram.

The ACC / AC fuse location is as mentioned for AC and or dealer add ons.

The missing fuse goes to the heater switch.

If you dont have power to things like the wipers, check the ignition switch.

Many of our cars circuits are not directly fuse protected
 
The service manual will have the most correct full diagram.
This a work in progress showing the main power circuits.
1723814220959.png


There are two accessory circuits.
Q2 is only on when the key is in On or Accessory positions
Q3 is hot all the time.

So the fuse box is divided:
It has two fuses that are only hot when the key is turned to Run or Accessory.
It has two other fuses that are hot all the time.
A blank fuse location for options (A/C, tach, rear heater, etc)
Finally a 2 or 3 amp fuse for the instrument lighting circuit.

When I tried several accessories wipers, dash & dome lights, etc. they were not working.
Wipers are on a branch of Q2. No fuse in the box. Probably a breaker in the wiper switch. But if the key is not on, the wipers won't work.
Dome lights are fused. Power goes from the fuse box to the dome lamp, then switches are in the return wire. Any one switch will complete the circuit to ground.
Dash lights are special. They are fused twice. One in the feed to the headlight switch, and again between the headlight switch and the instrument panel.

Note the ammeter location in the circuit. It will indcate whether current is flowing out of the battery or into it.
It can sometimes help in trouble shooting.
It also can serve as a warning for major problems.
Over half way discharging shows a short circuit, or some thing(s) are drawing lots of power.
Over halfway charging can indicate battery was very low and continuous heavy charging can cause damage the battery or wires.
Discharging when the engine is running indicates the alternator is not suppying power (instead the battery is).
 
Dana67Dart - Here's a better photo as mentioned
The empty slot is empty on most cars without AC.

the missing fuse, assuming the heater blower motor is fully functional, once installed should make the fan run with the key in the ACC or run position
 
It ain't methed up. It's fine.
 
No I was bein funny. Meth.....rehab. get it?
I thought it was just your Georgian accent. LOL

@fdharper, have you tested the fuse block with a voltage tester? With the key on the "On" position, one side of each fuse should be hot. The only exception to that I can think of is dash lights. On my 69 Barracuda, the headlight switch is rotated to vary the brightness of the dash lights. That power goes through another fuse between the headlight switch and the dash lights (like @Mattax said). But testing to see if one side of the fuse is hot is a start.
 
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