Fusible link upgrade possible?

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6d9 Valiant

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Here is the low-down;
Have a very nice Travco motorhome. Been working on thinks as I can get to them, with an eye on making it as 'break-down' free and easy to work on as possible. Off the starter relay I have two fusible links, one is 14 gauge wire, the other 16 gauge. One thing I cannot find any info on is what the amp rating is on these two should be. My thought behind it is to replace the fusible links with an inline 'mini-fuse' set up that could be easily replaced if it pops while on a trip or something. Don't want to guess and either have constant issues or a nice fire- 32' of marine-grade fiberglass burning would be one helluva inferno
 

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Most fuse links are rated for more than 30A

Most fuse holders............"aren't."

Those links SHOULD be a "last ditch" deal. In other words, in the vast majority of vehicles, they should never have cause to blow, sometimes in the vehicle's lifetime. I don't think the one in my 67 ever did, EG.
 
I hear you- I absolutely hate electrical, myself. I always ask...fires and 'magic' wiring smoke is a real possibility if I am left to my own devices, LOL!
 
Your wire it attaches to decides the fusible link size. Always use a fusible link 2 gauge sizes smaller than the wire it protects. I.E. If the wire is 12 gauge, use a 16 gauge fusible link.
 
I used a 16 guage wire like in your pic and put a 30 amp fuse in it and never had a problem yet they were 35 amp alternators so mu buddy is a fork lift mechanic and said this will hold just fine without starting or melting any wires , Its worked foe 15 years with a 340 and upgraded alternator so I also put in a regulator that floats up to 85 amp
just have to watch for small cracks in 50 year old wires . like I said so far so good 30 amp fuse away
 
Do yourself a favor, and find a well-equipped marine supply store near you. Buy a resettable circuit breaker at the load rating you need and be done with it. Solder, a small piece of black tape and some heat shrink wrap will keep the moisture and such out.

I use all marine grade wire and electrical components in my cars. It's just higher quality unless you really know how to shop for quality auto grade stuff.
 
Most fuse links are rated for more than 30A

Most fuse holders............"aren't."

Those links SHOULD be a "last ditch" deal. In other words, in the vast majority of vehicles, they should never have cause to blow, sometimes in the vehicle's lifetime. I don't think the one in my 67 ever did, EG.

^^^ Exactly as above. AND these holders tend to corrode easily and you are now increasing your number of contacts and crimps that can corrode and fail.

Another thing to note: fuses and fusible links are both thermal blow devices. Both take an overcurrent for a specific length of time to blow out. Either one can fail to blow in a short amount of time with a mild overload. So, don't think you are buying protection with a fuse versus a fusible link. All you are gettging is ease of replacement and trading off contact reliablity.

Note that mild overloads can be a problem as shorts may not be a dead short, but just a mild short that draws high enough current to melt insulation and start smoking/fire.

The marine cricuit breaker sounds like a good idea but depends on the exact mechanism of the breaker operation. Breakers can be thermal trip types where you have the same possible issue of not tripping with a mild overload. It looks like the marine types are thermal, but the good thing is that they will trip much more readily with mild overloads versus a fuse or fusible link. This also means they may have nusiance trips more easily so need to be uprated a bit. But I would expect the mild overload protection to still be better overall.

Fusible link wire can be bought at NAPA.
 
Thermal devises like circuit breakers are going to work only X number of times before they fail completely too. there is one built into our headlight switches. A fault will cause the lights to go off then come on again. Eventually they go off and stay off.
 
Not really; it depends entirely on how the breaker is designed. The vast majority are designed to stay off until manually reset.... like the breaker's in your houses electrical service. A self-resetting breaker is the exception.
 
Some breakers, such as used on panels in aircraft are designed for "switch duty." I'm not sure what the spec is called for lack of a better word.
 
All I can say is WOW.... people really like to over think and over complicate things....

If you solder in fusible links on the correct circuits (alt charge wire, and main feed into vehicle) it will be fine. There is no need for overkill with marine grade this and super duty fuse that.....

I have professionally wired cars from scratch for years and NEVER used most of the things suggested.
First and foremost.... UNDERSTAND what your doing before you start. If you dont, TAKE IT TO SOMEONE WHO DOES.
 
All I can say is WOW.... people really like to over think and over complicate things....

If you solder in fusible links on the correct circuits (alt charge wire, and main feed into vehicle) it will be fine. There is no need for overkill with marine grade this and super duty fuse that.....

I have professionally wired cars from scratch for years and NEVER used most of the things suggested.
First and foremost.... UNDERSTAND what your doing before you start. If you dont, TAKE IT TO SOMEONE WHO DOES.

You're right. Old school done right is great! Good points made here. Buy quality components, most of which you will no longer find at your chain auto stores. Even the wire is sub-par compared to what used to be available almost anywhere. You probably have your preferred suppliers of components?

Mopar was one of the key offenders in poorly designed electrical systems.

Really, alternators feeding cheap ungreased bulkhead connectors to a bulkhead connector to an amp gauge and back through the bulkhead to charge the battery? How many times have you wired them just like that, and had them work? Countless, I'm sure. You can keep them that way with your old school methods, as it works most of the time, if you don't alter it from stock, even then they would melt down.

Theses days, you will find very few people who truly understand electrical systems, especially old Mopars, their individual components AND how to improve the performance of these old electrical systems as designed from the factory by adding minor alterations. These alteration include things you NEVER heard of or used. That's fine.

You are the type of guy I would like to talk about this type of stuff with. You probably have incredible knowledge!

Mopars caught fire about as much as they rusted. In other words, A lot! Upgrading them electrically requires superior components. Period! The old way just can't handle it, because it was not designed for the added loads modern comfort and convenience items add.

Old school is fine, but but when your car is sucking 85 amps at a low idle with an 3/4 hp electric fuel pump, A/C, MSD, twin powerful Spal fans and a few other electrical do dads, and everything works like it should with no voltage drop, your old ways need to be amended. Mother Mopar's engineers need a little help, and they KNEW IT.

No Mopar or Denso altenator can handle the job. I've tried them all. I currently use a rewound CS 144 out of an Escalade, of all things. It even senses the voltage at my battery in the trunk and adjusts its output from there. I did take some notes from Madd Electric and took it a few steps further.

Have you even browsed a Marine electrical catalog lately to see what's in it? Some amazing stuff. West Marine is my favorite. Not only for basic quality wire and hardware, but for some seriously cool high-amp fuses.

No one suspected these cars would be the pinnacle of performance, and or coveted for decades to come. Even with the arrival of the modern day 21st century cars using computers to adjust suspension, control ignitions systems, fuel delivery and transmission shifting performance to better integrate the powerband of the engine came into play did their performance get surpassed. When you add the advanced CAD design and computer simulation of theoretical design changes, their performance was easily surpassed. And surpassed it was! Unless you modify them. That includes electrically. You can never hope to stay on the bumper of a Ferrari 599 GTO with 30 degrees total timing in your motor from 70 to 160+.

Somewhere in the hidden Moparts Archive is that very story. It's a good read, so I've been told.

This was some car I videoed on a controlled track with a professional driver.


http://www.westcoastspecial.com/somewhereinla.html
 
Not really; it depends entirely on how the breaker is designed. The vast majority are designed to stay off until manually reset.... like the breaker's in your houses electrical service. A self-resetting breaker is the exception.

Since you mentioned household breakers, I'm replacing one of those later today. 15 amp with nothing on it but security lamp on a post. The lamp goes off and on intermittently all night long. I assumed the light sensor on top was the fault, replaced that last weekend.
That breaker is about 30 years old.
 
Cheez, it's not like throwing a spare battery in your trunk box. Buy two or three different brands (if you're paranoid about one being crap), install a new one, toss the rest (including the old one if its' still good) in the toolbox with two sealing crimp connectors (Don't know/have the sealing kind? GET SOME) and a lighter, and move on with life.

If the fusable link pops while you're on some road trip, you got bigger problems anyway and stabbing a new one in isn't going to keep you from getting your travels ****-blocked a mile down the road anyway.
 
Actually I wire Mopars alot different than stock and run 100-140 amp alternators in them all . I then proceed to add power windows, seats, door locks or other accessories if the customer prefers and wire those appropriately.
Yes I have read alot of marine catalogs. I get some things from suppliers that are almost the same(not marine grade).
 
We're having a discussion of what to use in place of a fusible link if someone chooses to do so and the pro's and con's. Not replacing the link is a reasonable way to go, certainly can be said, but it seems the most useful to the OP to answer his question too since it is neither a stupid idea nor one that has been proven to never work.

And the advice to just take it to someone who knows wiring doesn't help teach; we all had to learn somewhere from the knowledge generated by others before us. Part of these forums is to share knowledge and teach.

(BTW, I have 'professionally' designed many harnesses in the past for many uses, but have no clue what my or your 'professional' experiences have to do with somehow proving others' inputs should be ignored and mine or yours should be exclusively followed.)
 
It is really interesting- I truly hate wiring & electrical work. I do have a friend who is a wizard with anything automotive, truck, boat, motorcycle, et cetera. Just hate to bother him. I did replace the two fusible links and was futzing around with the rig today. I just changed it from being butt-end connectors to male/female connector, so I can change them out on the quick if there is ever an issue
 
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