Gas gauge issue

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robjkc

robjkc

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I've been trying to get my 64 dart gas gauge working for several days after installing a new sending unit. It's always showed empty since I bought it. I did the grounding test which worked (although slowly) before installing the new sending unit but didn't after. I've checked the sending unit for resistance and also have it grounded with the metal strap.

After much trial and error I found out my sending unit pin on the circuit board did not have good connectivity to the board doing a continuity test. When trying to move it to get continuity I ending up breaking the pin. I eventually soldered it back on but after putting things back together my gauge instantly goes to full after giving the dash power.

It was recommended I go with the RTE external dash limiter but in the meantime I was wondering if anyone would know why the gas gauge pegs even though I only have a few gallons of gas. Also, I have someone sending me another dash cluster so I may need to use that as well.

Thanks for the help!
Robert
 
green1 said:
Recheck the soldering on the board, sounds like you hit 2 circuits with it.
Click to expand...

Thanks for advice! I will look into that. It was my first soldering job so I was careful not to use too much. Also, I don't think the soldering will work long term since the pin breaks off again when I pull the dash. I was happy I found out the problem but a little bummed that I broke the pin.
 
While your in there you may want to put a small dab of solder on each pin where it makes contact with the board.....they are press fit from the factory and have a bad habit of oxidizing and creating resistance.

Also you may want to tie all of your grounds together on the board with a jumper wires and connect them to a common lead that you can ground to the frame of the dash somewhere.

This is a great fix for dim dash lights.

Good luck.

Mop
 
momoparman said:
Also you may want to tie all of your grounds together on the board with a jumper wires and connect them to a common lead that you can ground to the frame of the dash somewhere.

This is a great fix for dim dash lights.

Good luck.

Mop
Click to expand...

Thanks for the great advice Mop! I have the dim dash lights as well.
 
green1 said:
Forget the pin, just solder wire to board.
Click to expand...

Hey green1. I just got back from the auto parts store. The guy sold me acid core solder, luckily I read only to use rosin core so I'll be back there tomorrow.

I also bought some 18 gauge wire. If you have any tips on how to best solder this wire to the board to get a good connection and without causing more damage to the board I would appreciate it.

Thanks again!
 
Oh, only rosin for electrical; acid for plumbing copper pipe. If it is glopped; radio shack, etc has de-soldering flux wire. All it is is clean braided copper wire that you put on the mistake, and heat it up, the solder flows into the copper. A little small iron, not a huge Weller that is as big as a pistol.
Clean tip, let it heat for 5 min, then put parts together, with majority of iron on the wire( it is bigger, and needs more heat). After about 20 seconds, touch the solder ( I hope they sold you the stuff as thin as mig wire) to the work. If the solder doesn't instantly flow, pull it off, and let heat somemore.
20 seconds should be plenty of preheat. Oh, some steelwool, scraping board with a knife, etc cleaning, alcohol beforehand is real good.
 
green1 said:
Don't heat the board that much, heat the wire; preheating the wire is good
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tips! I'll keep you posted on the results. BTW, does the 18 gauge sound correct? I thought about just flaring the last 1/8" of the wire on top of the board and flowing solder over it. May take a little trial and error so the de-flux might come in handy.
 
Damn. I'm dragging this out; don't put the solder to the gun. Put it to the work(wire). when it flows on that- good connection. And when first heating a new iron- heat it and run solder all over the tip, in order to tin it.
 
Like he said.....tin the wire first. That means you heat up the iron and put a dab of solder on the tip then touch the wire to the iron and hold it for a few seconds then touch both with solder till you see the solder flow from the iron onto the wire....it will flow like spilled water when it gets to temp. I keep the tip covered with a thin film of solder to allow for better thermal tranfer. You can do it either way but you will have to touch the iron and the solder to the wire at some point to get enough coverage.

Also as he said keep a wet rag or a sponge and constantly wipe your iron tip off to keep it shiny and clean....this will help keep the tip hot and conducting heat to the work.

Take your time and the fiberglass circuit board can usually handle the heat.

Good luck.

Mop
 
Thought I'd give an update. I was able to get the gauge working tonight. I've never been so excited to have a 1/4 tank of gas!

My soldering job wasn't that great and I ended up peeling back some of the circuit board in the process. I thought I ruined the board but I got the idea to just hard wire the sending wire to the gauge using a jumper wire which is working great.

Thanks again for all the help!
 
Excellent!
The path on the circuit board coming up was because of too much heat.
If the jumper wire's working, that's good enough.
Congratulations on a good job!
 
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