Gas gauges on A-bodies

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Pawned

Pawned

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I have been gone for a while (quite a while, actually). Has anyone ever gotten the Gas gauges, on the A-bodies, to work properly.
I took mine out to a show, this AM and ran out of gas on the way home. Good thing I still carry the gas can in the trunk
 
If you want a quick fix I run the equus Ford Chrysler gauge most accurate gauge ever! You can actually see it move up and down as the fuel moves around! $25

my Dodge Dart use to say I was on empty and I would still have 3 gallons in my tank, no more over filling at the gas stations Thanks to this gauge
 
Slantsix64 said:
If you want a quick fix I run the equus Ford Chrysler gauge most accurate gauge ever! You can actually see it move up and down as the fuel moves around! $25

my Dodge Dart use to say I was on empty and I would still have 3 gallons in my tank, no more over filling at the gas stations Thanks to this gauge
Click to expand...
Got a link to the one you are talking about?
 
The issue isn't usually the gauge, it's the sending unit. Because of the tire well and how the gas tank on the A-bodies is shaped the level and the amount of fuel left isn't linear. The factory sending units had their resistance set up in a way that wasn't linear to match, but the aftermarket sending units seem to all have a linear resistance set up, with the result being that the gauge doesn't read accurately to the amount of fuel in the tank. And that's assuming that the float and the sending unit arm are set up at the proper angles to begin with, the aftermarket ones frequently require a little tweaking of the float arm to correspond correctly to the actual fuel level in the tank.
 
That’s weird part number is 7361 equus
Amazon product ASIN B000EVWEG8
134F54A5-207A-4C71-9FA9-50FB7ECCAF43.jpeg
 
On a 67-69 A body rally dash (Barracuda) the fuel gauge includes the instrument voltage regulator. If this fails, it quickly burns out the fuel gauge and possibly the oil pressure gauge. Other A-bodies have a separate instrument voltage regulator, and since they usually have a idiot light for oil pressure, it is only the fuel gauge that is affected. This is probably more common than a sender failure.

The other common failure mode is the loss of the ground strap from the the sender unit to the hard fuel line. This is a sheet metal clip and it can rust or break from fatigue.
 
Slantsix64 said:
If you want a quick fix I run the equus Ford Chrysler gauge most accurate gauge ever! You can actually see it move up and down as the fuel moves around! $25

my Dodge Dart use to say I was on empty and I would still have 3 gallons in my tank, no more over filling at the gas stations Thanks to this gauge
Click to expand...
Let me get this straight, You are saying this gauge will work properly with the aftermarket fuel sending units? I have a AutoMeter fuel gauge and that one will not work properly with the after market senders.
I appreciate the information
 
1698603479075.png

Convert any ohm range fuel level sender to work with any ohm range fuel gauge!
The MeterMatch TM is for making analog gauges more accurate, or to allow you to mix and match different gauges and senders. It can be used with many gauges that have resistive senders - such as common fuel, oil-pressure and temperature gauges. It also allows you to have a low and/or high set points that can trigger a blinking LED indicator to alert if the gauge exceeds normal values.
Fuel level gauges are designed to work with a specific ohm range fuel sender. Different automobile and gauge manufacturers use different ohm ranges to correctly operate their gauges. This can cause problems for a person who is updating their vehicle with new gauges or a new gas tank and fuel sender.
This module will allow you to use your stock sender with virtually all common analog fuel gauges and vice versa. No longer do you need to drop your tank to change or customize your sender or re-calibrate your fuel gauge. With this simple device you can ensure your gauges are accurately reading your fuel sender and more!
The MeterMatch TM interface is the problem-solver between fuel senders and gauges to correct ohm mismatch and erratic movement due to fuel slosh.
Key Features
  • User can calibrate a custom ohm range (between 0-3,000 ohms)
  • The gauge can be calibrated at empty, full, and two other points ensuring accurate readings even with odd shaped gas tanks
  • The interface is compatible with nearly any short sweep fuel gauge and fuel sender combination
  • Easy screw terminal wire connections
  • Compact size, 2.4" x 1.85" x 0.93"
  • Simple rotary knob and push button calibration
  • Programmable voltage correction
  • Programmable low (or high) alarm (works with a LED indicator)
  • Programmable averaging can be turned on or off to help minimize needle bouncing
  • Can operate on 7 Volts DC through 24 Volts DC
  • Made in the USA

Only $89.95​
TAN-MM


Description:
MeterMatch Fuel Sender Interface Module
Quantity:​



ADD TO CART
ADD TO WISH LIST​
 
A56 said:
View attachment 1716159644
Convert any ohm range fuel level sender to work with any ohm range fuel gauge!
The MeterMatch TM is for making analog gauges more accurate, or to allow you to mix and match different gauges and senders. It can be used with many gauges that have resistive senders - such as common fuel, oil-pressure and temperature gauges. It also allows you to have a low and/or high set points that can trigger a blinking LED indicator to alert if the gauge exceeds normal values.
Fuel level gauges are designed to work with a specific ohm range fuel sender. Different automobile and gauge manufacturers use different ohm ranges to correctly operate their gauges. This can cause problems for a person who is updating their vehicle with new gauges or a new gas tank and fuel sender.
This module will allow you to use your stock sender with virtually all common analog fuel gauges and vice versa. No longer do you need to drop your tank to change or customize your sender or re-calibrate your fuel gauge. With this simple device you can ensure your gauges are accurately reading your fuel sender and more!
The MeterMatch TM interface is the problem-solver between fuel senders and gauges to correct ohm mismatch and erratic movement due to fuel slosh.
Key Features
  • User can calibrate a custom ohm range (between 0-3,000 ohms)
  • The gauge can be calibrated at empty, full, and two other points ensuring accurate readings even with odd shaped gas tanks
  • The interface is compatible with nearly any short sweep fuel gauge and fuel sender combination
  • Easy screw terminal wire connections
  • Compact size, 2.4" x 1.85" x 0.93"
  • Simple rotary knob and push button calibration
  • Programmable voltage correction
  • Programmable low (or high) alarm (works with a LED indicator)
  • Programmable averaging can be turned on or off to help minimize needle bouncing
  • Can operate on 7 Volts DC through 24 Volts DC
  • Made in the USA

Only $89.95​
TAN-MM


Description:
MeterMatch Fuel Sender Interface Module
Quantity:​



ADD TO CART
ADD TO WISH LIST​
Click to expand...
I tried one of these (still have it) and it was totally worthless. I had tried everything to get it to work, but it would not
 
I just had a thought (yes, I do have them occasionally).
The original fuel gauge and sending unit ran on +5VDC, the new gauges are running on +12VDC. I wonder if that has any bearing on this. Yes, I understand that it has nothing to do with the sending unit resistance setting, but I wonder if this could be a factor..

As I sit here and think about it, it makes absolutely no sense that an after-market gauge should not work with a after- market sender. It is simply electronics and it should work, But it does not, I just do not understand why
 
Last edited:
Yep
Pawned said:
Let me get this straight, You are saying this gauge will work properly with the aftermarket fuel sending units? I have a AutoMeter fuel gauge and that one will not work properly with the after market senders.
I appreciate the information
Click to expand...
 
It actually works and is the correct ohms, all my friends run it and I have it on three of my mopars. We’re all running aftermarket sending units.
 
Pawned said:
What is different from this gauge than the Autometer fuel gauage I have now that does not work properly
Click to expand...

Slantsix64 said:
It actually works and is the correct ohms, all my friends run it and I have it on three of my mopars. We’re all running aftermarket sending units.
Click to expand...

I changed to that same gauge and it works fine.

With the sender out and connected electrically, I ohm checked the sender at lowest and highest sweep.
It was real close to what the gauge required.
The tank was close to empty, so I put 2 gallons in the trunk and drove it till I ran out of gas and noted where the needle was.
Pulled the sender back out and tweaked the float arm a little.
Now when it reads empty there’s about 1 gallon left.
Perfect.
 
I had the fuel gauge delivered this afternoon and installed it. I did some testing on the autometer gauge I had in the car, found out it is not worth the powder to blow it to hell. I will test the new gauge later, as I was running on empty and need to recharge and the car needs some gas as it too is empty.
That is the 2nd AutoMeter gauge I got with my instrument cluster, that has gone bad. They cost way over $150 to buy but I am finding the $20-30 gauges from Equus work properly.
These Autometer gauges have very little time on them. I have not put 100 miles on the car since I got them and they took a dump on me.
I installed them a couple years ago, so they are not under waranty, but you would think that they would work better than gauges I can buy for 10 times less than AutoMeter gauges.
 
mvh said:
On a 67-69 A body rally dash (Barracuda) the fuel gauge includes the instrument voltage regulator. If this fails, it quickly burns out the fuel gauge and possibly the oil pressure gauge. Other A-bodies have a separate instrument voltage regulator, and since they usually have a idiot light for oil pressure, it is only the fuel gauge that is affected. This is probably more common than a sender failure.

The other common failure mode is the loss of the ground strap from the the sender unit to the hard fuel line. This is a sheet metal clip and it can rust or break from fatigue.
Click to expand...
On ‘67-76 A bodies with the standard panel, the voltage reducer (12v->5v) powers the fuel and temp gauges. If it fails dead, both stop working; if it fails “hot” both gauges peg and will burn out shortly (ask me how I know!!). However, they are surprisingly reliable (my original worked for over 25 years). Solid state replacements are available which not only are more reliable but provide a much more stable output. It’s one thing to consider as a source of trouble but unless you are seeing the failure modes I just described it probably isn’t the cause.
 
I just use a 7805 regulator mounted on a small heat sink and I solder everything. It's very reliable and cheap!
 
Put in the new Equus fuel gauge, worked wonderfully on the test bench and failed miserably in the car.
So I got back under the car and ohmed out the sender. No wonder the gauge does not work. The sender failed miserably.
So I ordered a new one and thankfully I only put 8 gallons of gas in the car to test it, instead of filling it.
So today, I start siphoning the gas out of the tank, so I can remove it when the new sender arrives.

Yes, I will test it on the bench, before I installed it in the tank. Now I need to find the gasket sealer that is not gasoline solvent

I appreciate all the help I received from you all
 
You should not need a gasket sealer, the rubber does it all. Sealer just makes it difficult for the next time you have to take it apart.
 
cudajim said:
You should not need a gasket sealer, the rubber does it all. Sealer just makes it difficult for the next time you have to take it apart.
Click to expand...
The seals provided by the manufacturer of the sender have always been terrible. They always leak. I found a gasket sealer that I used last time and it worked great. I just took the sending out and it was not an issue having that sealer on it.

I did find that one of the vent tubes that was attached to the top of the tank is hanging down. I guess I will seal off the vent hose for that tube and call it a day.
Or I can turn it over and press it up against the top, stick my mig welder in there and tac it back in place.

Wonder who will not see that as a little humor, very little I know

IMG_20231106_085031819[1].jpg
 
one last question: The sending unit I received has two ports. The smaller one , I assume is, is for a return line. I do not use this and wondering how you guys and gals with the same situation, Plugged the return line. I am thinking of a combination of hot glue and/or JB Weld.
I will appreciate your suggestions
 
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