Gas Line

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nodemon

nodemon

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How important is it to replace the gas line...(the line from tank to filter) on a car that has sat and not run for maybe 20 - 30 plus years..? I know when the tank came out the gas smelled like maybe varnish ..? VERY strong smell.
I already have the new line, so most may say to just swap it, but I'm finding it's a major pain in the *** to remove the old one... and before I go to yanking, twisting, bitching and punching something, is it really necessary and worth it..?
If so, any good tips on removal and install..?? 72 Demon.
T.I.A..!
 
dadsbee said:
It just clips on, other than 2 tube clamps and bolts.
Click to expand...
I guess it's more of the installation that I'm thinking will be a pain. My gas line runs with the vapor line that goes from tank to charcoal canister. Just the start of removing the gas line I can tell it may be an issue going back in as far as not crimping or over bending.
 
It is actually somewhat an easy job, I find it easier to remove the rear wheel for better access (front is off for other reasons).

Part of what makes it difficult to get the line out is the undercoating, I found it easier to pull the clips with the line. There is one clip midpoint on the rocker that is rammed up, it must be pulled out.
2024-06-29_001.jpg



Alan
 
Are you making your own, or did you buy the pre bent kit?

The full brake line from front to back runs similar on the opposite side of the car ( I just finished this today). I made my own brake line bending it the same way that the factory did. It was not hat difficult to install. You start by pushing the forward section through the torsion bar crossmember from the rear. The rest of it was pretty easy to lay into position.......I assume the fuel line install will be similar.
 
Did you replace the fuel tank? If the tank was bad enough to replace, the fuel line will be just as bad.
If the tank was good, chances are the line will be okay, too. But no guarantees on that... and if you have an old tank full of crud, a new line won't solve anything for long.
If you reuse the old line, disconnect it at the tank (you should be replacing all the old rubber hoses anyhow, fifty year old hose doesn't play nice with modern ethanol fuels) and put some air pressure on it. If it blows freely, you're halfway there. Then clamp the hose at the front of the car with a vicegrip and put air pressure on it again- it should pressurize, and if there are any leaks you'll be able to tell. Then I like to pump some Evaporust into it with a Miteyvac or equivalent, and let it sit overnight. Then blow it out again and pump some fuel through it until it comes out clean. Then hook it all back up with new (EFI rated) hose and clamps. Don't forget the grounding jumper at the tank connection, or your fuel gauge won't work.
Honestly, by the time you do all this, you probably could have just replaced the fuel line anyway...
 
nodemon said:
How was the install..? What car..?
Click to expand...
Wayback machine.... 64 Plymouth. Inline Tube swap. Went well. PITA getting around the rear shock and axle but the rest was pretty straighforward. I replaced the clips and it runs through the transmission cross member. Took maybe 25 minutes?
 
My 2 cents...

If you can blow compressed air through the existing tube from the sender (disconnected) to the fuel pump (disconnected) then the line is at least open.

do a pressure test on the tube. cap off one end and put a valve on the other. Give it 20 PSI air pressure and close the valve. Disconnect the air hose and check back in 24 hours
 
Professor Fate said:
Did you replace the fuel tank? If the tank was bad enough to replace, the fuel line will be just as bad.
If the tank was good, chances are the line will be okay, too. But no guarantees on that... and if you have an old tank full of crud, a new line won't solve anything for long.
If you reuse the old line, disconnect it at the tank (you should be replacing all the old rubber hoses anyhow, fifty year old hose doesn't play nice with modern ethanol fuels) and put some air pressure on it. If it blows freely, you're halfway there. Then clamp the hose at the front of the car with a vicegrip and put air pressure on it again- it should pressurize, and if there are any leaks you'll be able to tell. Then I like to pump some Evaporust into it with a Miteyvac or equivalent, and let it sit overnight. Then blow it out again and pump some fuel through it until it comes out clean. Then hook it all back up with new (EFI rated) hose and clamps. Don't forget the grounding jumper at the tank connection, or your fuel gauge won't work.
Honestly, by the time you do all this, you probably could have just replaced the fuel line anyway...
Click to expand...
I bought a new tank from Tanks Inc. The fuel line is pre-bent.. I did replace my brake lines with the pre-bent ones.. not too bad, but being on my back is not too easy or good for me.. That may be my biggest problem.
Click to expand...
 
CFD244 said:
Are you making your own, or did you buy the pre bent kit?

The full brake line from front to back runs similar on the opposite side of the car ( I just finished this today). I made my own brake line bending it the same way that the factory did. It was not hat difficult to install. You start by pushing the forward section through the torsion bar crossmember from the rear. The rest of it was pretty easy to lay into position.......I assume the fuel line install will be similar.
Click to expand...
Pre-bent.. I did my pre-bent brake lines a couple weeks ago.. not too bad.
 
Something I learned taking the lines out.

Get the car up off the ground as high as is safe!

More room to rotate the assy
 
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