Gas Struts on The trunk lid? Here you go.

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Serj22

Serj22

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I've been looking to do this for a while. The spot where my torsion rods go in the trunk on one side - the metal ripped through, and I wasn't looking to break it again.

I found a $36.00 option this way, minus the hardware. I've seen a lot of people asking for how to do it all around, and I drilled holes in my own car, for science. I did the "guess and check" method, and got it on my 2nd try. I'll put up my measurements after I perfect the system, but I've included a photo of basically where they go. The torsion rods are still in there because I couldn't figure out how to get them out, but they do not function. The entire weight of the trunk is free without the gas struts, and it's heavy to lift without.

I took some basic measurements of how i needed the struts to extend, and how long they were in the fully closed position. The struts I chose are a little more powerful than they need to be, probably rated for a higher weight hood or something. They don't list lengths or weight on the package, just which car they are for. But I obtained these at Oreilly's, and I'll list the package number if anyone wants to repeat this, but first I want to make the operation a little smoother before I tell you all what I did, so you don't go destroying something because I was wrong. I am in no way responsible for any damage to your car and you perform this mod at your own risk - because these will bend the trunk easily if done wrong.

That's why I chose the swinging hinge as the mounting point, because pushing forward on it while closed will likely not bend it.

20150421_170028_zps4ofs6hig.jpg
 
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Very interested in this mod since what happened to your torsion bar uprights happened to mine in my '69 Dart as well - in exactly the same spot.
I've seen gas cylinders used before but the other installation mounted them on the trunk floor. Your mod is so much cleaner! I like it.
 
I have done the same but I have a ridiculously looking attachment at the trunk. Does that one have a stud that goes clear through the hinge?
 
I am still looking for a stud that will fit. Right now i have holes drilled straight through the hinge, and a 5/16" bolt, then I threaded the end of the strut onto it for now. I wanted something simple I could move around till I found a spot that worked. I put a bolt through the hinge, put a nut on the other side and the leftover thread the strut locks on to.

I'm thinking I may be able to find some kind of bellcrank stud that may be long enough to do it the "proper" way though. I'll let you all know what I find.
 
I'm getting there, and I think these struts will work just right. I'm trying to see if I can get a little more height in the lift, but it seems like this is about it. You lose about 4" of height. The torsion rods opened it all the way up till the hinges stopped, wheras my system you lose about 4". So if that's not a big deal to you, I will give you the struts, which are:

STABILUS "Lift-O-Mat"
SG430025
Made in The USA

Each one costs about $16.99. I got mine from Oreilly's Auto Parts.

I will work on a template drawing with measurements to show where both sets of holes go. I am also working on the hardware needed to install them. The compressed and extended lengths worked right for mine, and here's the part.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...ck=Search_01159_1379842_-1&pt=01159&ppt=C0325

If you're looking for a car in the junkyard to use, I looked it up, and the cars you'd be looking for is a 2000-2005 Buick Century or a 1999-2004 Buick Regal.

They support a tiny bit more weight as they're intended for the model with a spoiler.
 
Cool! I got a bunch of these for free from work and was going to look at doing the same thing. I was thinking about using them for the hood as well.
 
Ok, I'm sure there's more than one way to skin a cat, I know it cause I just finished doing this to my car.
But I went a little differently. My torsion rods were shot, would not open the trunk, or hold it open. I got tired of it falling on my head.

So here's a few pics of what I did, and a video I just finished of the operation.

I chose to just give the torsion rods a little help. Heres a few pic but you can see better what I did in the video.



S5005306.jpg


S5005310.jpg


S5005311.jpg
 
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MileHighDart said:
Ok, I'm sure there's more than one way to skin a cat, I know it cause I just finished doing this to my car.
But I went a little differently. My torsion rods were shot, would not open the trunk, or hold it open. I got tired of it falling on my head.

So here's a few pics of what I did, and a video I just finished of the operation.

I chose to just give the torsion rods a little help. There were some changes after the pics, but you can see better what I did in the video.

TrunkWorking - YouTube
Click to expand...

Pretty slick! I made bump stops out of sway bar link bushings. added a 1/4 inch carriage bolt and screwed it all together. FYI, I tried something similar to you, and found the mount on the fender would flex the metal and I was concerned it would eventually crack. BUT nice job MT:burnout:
 
Mine came out of a 19 something ford explorer, rear lift gate. MT
 
I only use one because I couldn't find a pair light duty enough.
IMAG0465_zpsrcp4cxiw.jpg

And don't forget the late 80's power trunk release.
IMAG0466_zpsnym9mzdm.jpg
 
That is a massively heavy duty bracket. Also I think a trunk popper is in order on my setup too. I should do that, and then wire it to my keyless entry system.
 
Yep, the electric trunk release is the next thing on my list.
Roll in to a car show, push the button and trunk comes up all on its own.
 
Serj22 said:
The ones I found up top are for a Buick Regal, and they are rated at 90lbs. They're a bit strong for the application, but work.
Click to expand...
FYI if you move connecting point nearer the pivot, you will have more leverage and it will be easier to close. Just my 2 cents worth MT:cheers:
 
Old thread, I know, but always new/useful info to someone.

Serj22 said:
The ones I found up top are for a Buick Regal, and they are rated at 90lbs. They're a bit strong for the application, but work.
Click to expand...

I saw something at TSC the other day that might work in this situation..... Gas struts for a truck bed tool box, rated at 50# per shock.
 
This one has been on the lid of my 66 Cuda for about 10 years now! A guy named Mike Tarkington made the brackets and was selling the kit for $49, I think he still sells them but they are now in the $125 range!! I guess it pays to buy early!!

IMG_2965.JPG
 
Bump to show more people and to let some of y'all know that pics and videos disappeared
 
My gas struts are down to the floor on each side to some factory holes in a pinch weld. I thought about moving them to the inner fenders but was concerned about the metal flexing. Guess I'll have to take a look again as I'd rather have a cleaner install.

Thanks,

Riddler
 
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