like_A_pike
that's not factory
Im just about finished with replacing the original tank and gas lines and thought id add a little more to the body of information in this forum.
First, thanks for all the folks that went before me and bothered to write about it. This has been very helpful.
I stayed with the 5/16th line since it sounded like fitment with 3/8 was a problem sometimes. Two challenges I have were proximity to the headers inspired me to add 4' of DEI protective "A-sleeve". I could get bubbles in the filter on really warm days but I cant tell ya if I ever suffered from an actual vapor lock event. Ill keep you posted on that front.
Removing the tire and exhaust was quite helpful but I have frame rail connectors too. Obviously if you are thinking about going that route, replace your lines first! Mine came with them from the previous owner. I straightened the line first, (it comes pre-bent but they also loop the whole thing in half to ship it, thats what Im referring to),(it might have been easier to do that under the car, ill never know) & I threaded it at a 45* angle and almost upside down. That got the front under the frame connector and into that hole in the cross member. (Tranny support) then push it through. My brakeline was over the gas line up front so I had to back it out once. The back was really tight just in front of the wheel well so I gently pushed it up with a jack to get the new clip in there. It met the sending unit perfectly.
I mounted the sending unit in a vice next to the old one and matched the bends as close as I could. I tested the resistance range in both and found 10 more ohms in the new one on the high end. (My old one register empty at 1/4 tank, it didnt have a filter on it either) well that filter lengthened the sender a skosh so my bend actually made installation more difficult. it pretty much jammed against the floor of the tank. It took my wife holding it centered while I turned the lock ring with a crescent wrench. (Careful not to wrinkle the gasket).
My favorite part was reinstalling the filler tube. The manual says install the tank and then twist the tube in. I tore out most of the interior to find room in my fastback to do that. All for not! There just isn't enough room to get it started. So I dropped the tank on a jack with a board between them. I left the seal out in the Texas sun, smoothed out that tube with lite sandpaper, walked the trunk seal way up the tube, (over one of those vent line clips that is welded to the tube) Lubed up the hot seal and got the tube started!! Jacked up the tank and strapped it in. I still have to fill the tank all the way but it runs and the gas gauge shows ~1/4 tank with 5 gallons in it. All the parts are stainless from Classic....
Ill put the interior back after I test it full. Hope this helps!
Cheers
First, thanks for all the folks that went before me and bothered to write about it. This has been very helpful.
I stayed with the 5/16th line since it sounded like fitment with 3/8 was a problem sometimes. Two challenges I have were proximity to the headers inspired me to add 4' of DEI protective "A-sleeve". I could get bubbles in the filter on really warm days but I cant tell ya if I ever suffered from an actual vapor lock event. Ill keep you posted on that front.
Removing the tire and exhaust was quite helpful but I have frame rail connectors too. Obviously if you are thinking about going that route, replace your lines first! Mine came with them from the previous owner. I straightened the line first, (it comes pre-bent but they also loop the whole thing in half to ship it, thats what Im referring to),(it might have been easier to do that under the car, ill never know) & I threaded it at a 45* angle and almost upside down. That got the front under the frame connector and into that hole in the cross member. (Tranny support) then push it through. My brakeline was over the gas line up front so I had to back it out once. The back was really tight just in front of the wheel well so I gently pushed it up with a jack to get the new clip in there. It met the sending unit perfectly.
I mounted the sending unit in a vice next to the old one and matched the bends as close as I could. I tested the resistance range in both and found 10 more ohms in the new one on the high end. (My old one register empty at 1/4 tank, it didnt have a filter on it either) well that filter lengthened the sender a skosh so my bend actually made installation more difficult. it pretty much jammed against the floor of the tank. It took my wife holding it centered while I turned the lock ring with a crescent wrench. (Careful not to wrinkle the gasket).
My favorite part was reinstalling the filler tube. The manual says install the tank and then twist the tube in. I tore out most of the interior to find room in my fastback to do that. All for not! There just isn't enough room to get it started. So I dropped the tank on a jack with a board between them. I left the seal out in the Texas sun, smoothed out that tube with lite sandpaper, walked the trunk seal way up the tube, (over one of those vent line clips that is welded to the tube) Lubed up the hot seal and got the tube started!! Jacked up the tank and strapped it in. I still have to fill the tank all the way but it runs and the gas gauge shows ~1/4 tank with 5 gallons in it. All the parts are stainless from Classic....
Ill put the interior back after I test it full. Hope this helps!
Cheers
