Gauge Cluster and Dash Pad Removal Help

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gtgto

gtgto

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I am making my project even harder than it should be I think. Do all of the connections have to be removed from my non Rally Gauge Cluster before attempting to remove it from the dash and for the life of me I do not see anything holding the dash pad in place. Is this more under dash work?
 
Assuming we aren't working on a Sherman tank here, lol, the cluster can be unscrewed and you should be able to tip it out far enough to unplug everything.

Dash pad, I don't know what you're working on.
 
I kinda figured, but the avatar pic isn't always what someone is working on.

Like I said, remove the screws for the gauge cluster and carefully lean it out so you can unplug everything. If it has an ammeter there will be a hot wire there, so disconnect your battery first.

To get the dash pad off, you will need the cluster out, then remove the glove box liner, and you may have to pull the heater controls. There will be speed nuts (or whatever they are called) every so many inches (about 6-8 inches apart) all the way across the top, there is also one screw on each end where the pad drops down over the end of the dash.

To get to some of the nuts, you will more than likely need to move sections of the wiring harness out of the way, it's held in by two metal tabs just bent over on each other.

Be forewarned when moving your hand around inside the dash, there are some vicious sharp areas that can cut you, so take your time.
 
If I recall you will not be able to "see" the speed nuts that hold on the pad but you can reach up with your hand and feel them. I think it is an 11/32 deep socket that you need on a palm ratchet or something similar....
 
Don't forget to remove the speedometer cable, before trying to pull the cluster forward. I just did the same job on my 72 Duster. You're going to need a lot of patience to get at some of the nuts.
 
Thanks for the info all....I would be attacking the cluster and dash pad removal this weekend but I'm heading to Carlisle for the first time...Cannot wait.
 
Bad Sport said:
Be forewarned when moving your hand around inside the dash, there are some vicious sharp areas that can cut you, so take your time.
Click to expand...

I tell people it's like shoving your hand into a box of kitchen knives. :D
 
I just did mine this year also, its not that bad. Takes about an hour. Lucky I had a new one ready to be installed so I was able to see when the nuts were placed on the pad. The dash cluster will have to be removed along with glove box. Be careful there are a lot of shape parts under dash....

Take your time it will come off.
 

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You also will have to remove the front seat or seats, so you can reach up and get to nuts.
 
the R&R procedure is found in factory service manuals. If I don't want to pull the park brake lever and work around it, plus I know I'll need to move the shifter to neutral, I chock the wheels.
Knowing a little about how it was all put together can help discover shortcuts. On the assembly line the complete dash, inst' panel included, was placed in the car. To do this, the steering column was still MIA. That means you'll need to at least lower the steering column. ( Please note; If you have column shift, remove all the column mounting hardware so the column lowers enough. Be gentle. To pull down on the column with any force will disturb shifter linkage and neutral safety switch adjustment. Gently move the column back up in place where it was before so no disruption to signal switch, horn switch, etc., occurs. )
Then there is the electrical wiring and speedometer cable. Factory had the wiring included with the dash assembly so all they needed to do was poke the bulkhead connection through the square hole in the firewall from inside out. Someone else would attach the 3 connectors outside. So.... want a lot more slack in the wire harness to work with ? the bulkhead connection can be taken apart in 5 minutes or less.
They also has a lot of extra speedometer cable length inside. Once the dash was in place the extra length was pushed out through the firewall grommet so someone else under the car could secure it under bent metal strap welded to the floor under the drivers seat area. So... if you were to unsecure the speedometer cable there, you could shove extra cable length into the cabin. That is one thing that I always do even if I choose not to feck with the bulkhead connector.
The speedometer cable is the last thing I disconnect from the inst' panel. When I go to reinstall the panel, attaching that cable first provides a fairly strong tether/support while I attach the wiring, etc...
I cant remove a seat by myself. I sit in it while working. So start with the info from the service manual, then consider our methods to the madness. You'll find what works best for you and what you might do differently next time. Have fun
 
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