Gauge cluster questions

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mopowers

mopowers

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I've got a 68 dart that I'm trying to take the gauge cluster out to bypass the ammeter. Whats the easiest way to pull the gauge cluster forward? Do you need to drop the steering column to do this???
 
Yup Remove the bolts in the floor plate, one bolt way up in on a bracket in the middle, and last, the two nuts on the "obvious" studs on the outer clamp. Of course this is after you remove the small trim panel. You might have to turn the wheel as much as 1/4 turn to get the coupler in position so that it will "flex" and the thing should drop down to the seat.

Pull the cluster screws, of course unhook the battery, and unhook the speedo, and gently "hinge" the cluster out and down. Some cars don't have much wiring "flex" so you might not get it far out before you have to unhook the two harness connectors and the ammeter

Now is an EXCELLENT time to really go through the dash. Inspect and repair the cluster connector pins.

On my own 67, I abandoned the original connectors, and went to a pair of Molex style plugs. The temp/ fuel gauge stud nuts were corroded and not making contact, so loosen/ tighten/ loosen the nuts, and better yet, replace them with real nuts.

On mine, the brass contacts that form the "socket" for the instrument voltage limiter were not making contact with the PC board. I had to solder short jumpers across from the contacts to the board.

Make sure you clean up around the lamp sockets, replace the bulbs, and examine/ repair/ replace the sockets. Bend the fingers for better contact on the lamp sockets

Also install a ground wire and jumper to the two boards, leave about a 1 ft pigtail and attach with a nut/ screw and a star washer to someplace such as the column support bracket for a better ground.

Now would be a GREAT time to replace the gauge VR with a solid state one.

Also have you seen this thead? It's an EASY afternoon project to adapt a Sunpro voltmeter in place of your ammeter, and cal. the reading so that 14V is the center of the scale!!!

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=119480&highlight=ammeter+conversion


'S all I can think of for now.
 
You can also by-pass the ammeter under the hood and avoid possible future melt downs under the dash. I did that on my '70 Dart and it works great.

67Dart273 is right by getting that cluster cleaned up too. I just built a voltage limiter for my dash tonight as the original one hasn't worked since I've owned my Dart. I've got after market engine gauges but I'm getting tired of not having a fuel gauge. Cost less than $6 for everything from my local Radio Shack. I built one four years ago for my '74 Satellite and it works really well with the gauges. Takes about twenty minutes.

http://www.allpar.com/history/mopar/electrical2.html

View attachment DSC_0108 em.jpg

View attachment DSC_0107 em.jpg
 
Don't bypass the ammeter at the dash since, as mentioned, the current still would route thru the bulkhead connectors which may melt it if corrosion or an upgraded alternator. Bypass it in the engine bay (many posts on MAD solution). I installed bypass diodes so my ammeter still works but higher currents get shunted straight to/from the battery (see post), but way too involved for most readers. If you don't want to tear into your dash to install a voltmeter, there are $15 cigarette lighter ones on Amazon.
 
I just bench tested my new voltage limiter with the cluster. The temp gauge started working again right away. No dice for the fuel gauge. Took the nuts off the back of the gauge cleaned them up and cleaned up the circuit board where they contact and presto the fuel gauge also came to life. I'm going to take the cluster all the way apart and clean everything real good but I just wanted to make sure the gauges were at least functioning. 42 years of crud and this was actually a very clean garaged car from an old lady. Clean clean clean...
 
Robj said:
I just bench tested my new voltage limiter ....................... No dice for the fuel gauge.................. Took the nuts off the back of the gauge cleaned them up and cleaned up the circuit board where they contact and presto the fuel gauge also came to life..
Click to expand...

Yup. Been preaching that in many of my posts.

You guys need to treat the gauges as an end to end system

1---Power to the cluster from the IGN switch, is it really "good?"

2---Are the connector pins making contact?

3--Is the limiter making contact with the board traces?

4--Is the limiter working?

5--Are the gauges actually making contact with the PC board?

6--Are the sensor wires actually making contact at the board connector?

7--Is the temp sensor wire continuous thorugh the bulkhead connector, all the way to the gauge?

8--Is the fuel sensor wire continuous all the way (through the kick panel connector) to the gauge?

9--Are the wire end terminals OK and making good contact?

10--Last test the senders by resistor substitution to be sure the senders and gauges are accurate.
 
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