gauge of rear frame rails?

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barbee6043

barbee6043

barbee 6043
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been working on the toad, ( aka 62 lancer). I admit its the first car I've drug home with any appreciable frame rail rust. the rear rails had lots of rust out on the bottom opf the rail opnly. sides just normal surface rust. probably rusted some from inside. sides seem pretty solid.

wondering if anyone know what gauge the factory used for the rear rails???? I have a wholesale steel store that also has some big breaks and they will make me the " L" shaped pieces I will use to repair.... the curved portions, I will cut notches in sides so I can get the bend and then weld those cuts back when I sleeve the old rails. my plan.

this car came out of il. at some time. never seen but one opther Mo. rusted in frame. it was a 69 hemi runner , nothing good on it but the rad support, grill, and roof!!! ( 1995) LOL
 
I haven't worked on one that old , but the ones I messed with E and A bodies have been around .106 -.109 inches, roughly 12g. Not sure this helps. measure with a caliper.
 
i'm sure the sides of the rails have rusted some from outside and inside over the last 50 years!! so I didn't bother trying to measure with calipers......LOL, I don't think the rear rails were too awfully thick gauge to start with, ... i'm with you ,, 12 ga sounds reasonable, the bottoms overlap so that part will be twice as thick. it will have frame connectors too. ( not going into the floor!) no use to start that argument again!!?? LOL
it really won't be that bad a job. if I can keep the hot metal out of my shorts!! LOL
 
Also make sure that grounding clamp is on clean metal ,awful uncomfortable when you make yourself the ground side with 220v, and it doesn't do much for weld quality when your hand is jumping all over. just sayin lol
 
GeorgeH said:
Also make sure that grounding clamp is on clean metal ,awful uncomfortable when you make yourself the ground side with 220v, and it doesn't do much for weld quality when your hand is jumping all over. just sayin lol
Click to expand...

I've had a couple of "small" mig welders over the years. I bought this Hobart (has the gas bottle),( I mostly use it for sheetmetal patches.) 12 years ago.. it has never feed wire smoothly. I never think about how sorry it does till I go to use it. I think I will try to contact Hobart (Miller) and see what I can do. TOO cold outside today for anything!!.

yes ya right. gotta have good ground. this is a 110 unit, but mig needs clean metal for decent weld. I will mention this. I have been using OSPHO as an acid metal cleaner. I have treated sheetmetal with it where i would make a weld. even on there wet, seems to make better weld.???? ( a litttle fumey!)ya know how hard it is to really clean that 50 years old rusted pitted floor metal????/

the frame is rusted on the bottom, sides are good. easy fix except making the bend on curved part of rail!!.. I wil cut notches in sides of repair piece and it will bend into the curve o k... will have to wait till end of month unless someone wants to make $$ donation! LOL
 
I saw the front frame rad supports and was suprised how thin the guage was. Guess thats how they are 2900 wet.
 
I will also weld in some 2 x3 in x .125 tubing for frame connectors. the little slant won't go sway, but some stiffer and new suspension and brakes will come later. it will just be a cool little roadtoad ( to me)..
 
GeorgeH said:
Also make sure that grounding clamp is on clean metal ,awful uncomfortable when you make yourself the ground side with 220v, and it doesn't do much for weld quality when your hand is jumping all over. just sayin lol
Click to expand...

While welding in wet conditions can be dangerous, the ground clamp has nothing to do with line voltage.

Having said that, if you "get across" the "hot" stinger on a MIG you can be subjectect to as much as 40 or 50 volts, but typically less. A typical "stick" (TIG) welder is more, up to say, 80 or so.

But if there is a problem with the line connector (plug) you COULD find the entire welder, the case, the ground, and the stinger is "above ground" by 120V

("220" is not to ground, a "220" system is 110-120V to "ground")

(Disclaimer)

None of the above is true if you are living in the "third world" or attempting to use one of these highly deadly, illegal Piece's Of Sh##

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CqxtDC-VAg8"]world SMALLEST WELDING MACHINE EVER..... - YouTube[/ame]
 
you are probably right about welding on that wet metal. I admit I was rather surprised to see a better weld on that somewhat rusty metal with that OSPHO applied. the ground was on dry metal. I generally let it dry a d ay before welding. I wouldn't want anything I say to get anyone hurt.
anytime I find a good product for killing rust, ( first saw it recommended on here by member), I get a little excited. hate rust!!
 
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