Gen3 hemi tkx swap

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Oh wow, I did not have to cut that much for my TKX! I wonder if the hemi has any influence on where the trans sits, compared to my small block.
Probably not, the old 904 was in the stock location and I just bolted the hemi to it. Crank centerline may be higher but the transmission mount stayed the same. Engine is sitting at about 2.5 down.
 
How did the 904 go behind the 6.4 as thats what i am going to run behind my one. You just need a different fly wheel? 904 Bolts right up no adjusting?
Bolted right up. Holley sells right flexplate. I made my own motor mounts. Used tti measurements to mount engine
 
When I mocked my TKX up I used measurements from the 833. The TKX is almost the same length. I measured from the floor to the centerline of the tail shaft as well as the center of the tail shaft to the trans tunnel.
I am within an 1/8" of where the tail shaft centerline was originally. It does put it close to the tunnel. I plan on using a 1350 I joints too.
I think people tend to run the tail shaft down to make less tunnel work thos does result in lower hanging headers am such
 
I had a chance to model up a trans crossmember. Took a photo of underneath the car and scaled it into fusion 360. Initial model came out well after 3d printing the bracket. A few tweaks and some gussets and we will have a crossmember

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I like it. Clean. Nice to not worry about something going over the top. Advantage of no torsion bars.
Is the final position a little higher? Are you using a cable speedo?
 
I like it. Clean. Nice to not worry about something going over the top. Advantage of no torsion bars.
Is the final position a little higher? Are you using a cable speedo?
That’s where it’s going to sit. No speedo, my cluster makes a chatter noise so I’m taking it out.
 
Has anybody had to pop a hole in their strut tower of master cylinder clearance?? I don’t want to cut another hole in my car! Feel like captain jack sparrow, quit blowing holes in my ship!!

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I marked the area with a sharpie and made clearance with a hammer and dolly. I could have made it a little nicer. But no hole.

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Has anybody had to pop a hole in their strut tower of master cylinder clearance?? I don’t want to cut another hole in my car! Feel like captain jack sparrow, quit blowing holes in my ship!!

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Is that the mount from this thread?

Clutch Master Cylinder Mounting

Can’t tell. His is supposed to clear the inner fender with a Wilwood master. If it isn’t, maybe a different master cylinder would help?
 
Has anybody had to pop a hole in their strut tower of master cylinder clearance?? I don’t want to cut another hole in my car! Feel like captain jack sparrow, quit blowing holes in my ship!!
I had to beat a dent into mine to get it to clear. I put masking tape, marked with a sharpy, beat it with a hammer. Engine, master cylinder, steering column, headers ect in the way. So much fun. Mine still contacts inner fender a bit but it fits.
 
Push rod is installed and it’s not totally going in a straight shot. It has a little miss alignment where silver sport has their hole. Now if I move it up to the stud it’s very straight.. The hole that is provided is giving me a 3.5:1 pedal ratio.. if I move it up to where it’s happy it’s 6:1. Hydro clutch wants 6:1 ratio right??

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Never mind. I forget there’s directions for this kinda stuff .. lol they even circled it for me!
 
Things kinda escalated on the front suspension. Ended up modeling a 2” drop spindle. Soon we will have a real part. Hemi Denny torsion bar eliminator kit ( nice stuff!) to accompany the spindles
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Things kinda escalated on the front suspension. Ended up modeling a 2” drop spindle. Soon we will have a real part. Hemi Denny torsion bar eliminator kit ( nice stuff!) to accompany the spindles View attachment 1716241529View attachment 1716241528View attachment 1716241527

I see some similarities.

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Yours looks much more svelte and cleaner though.

I assuming you are running a narrow front wheel? I looked at dropping mine 1" but the tie rod end started being an issue again even though I would run 18" wheels with mine.
 
I see some similarities.

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Yours looks much more svelte and cleaner though.

I assuming you are running a narrow front wheel? I looked at dropping mine 1" but the tie rod end started being an issue again even though I would run 18" wheels with mine.
Yes thanks. 15x4. What hub and rotor where you planning on running
 
Yes thanks. 15x4. What hub and rotor where you planning on running

2015 Mustang rear hub with a Scat Pack 14.2 rotor and 4 piston Brembo.

The beginning of the idea was something with a tone ring built in. No idea if it will come to fruition.
 
Having some issues with the QuickTime bell housing… the advertised depth of this bell is 7.300. This bell is sb/ gen 3 driver side starter.. I referenced quicktimes specific gen3 tko/tkx with passenger side starter and it’s the same 7.300 depth.. All my engagements are on the ragged edge. Pilot bearing needs to be custom to fully engage. And clutch is on the very end of the spline on input shaft.
Now I referenced lakewoods aluminum gen3 specific bell and its depth it 7.08. .220 difference. Which would make everything happy. I’m about 5 seconds away from throwing this very expensive bellhousing to the curb. I like my feet too much to get an aluminum bell housing. Any thoughts?
 
That's a big difference. The Quick Time probably has a thicker engine plate where the aluminum bell has a thinner one also. A thicker flywheel would help disk but not pilot. And I would think that's not an option. It's the adapter flywheel not OEM right?
 
That's a big difference. The Quick Time probably has a thicker engine plate where the aluminum bell has a thinner one also. A thicker flywheel would help disk but not pilot. And I would think that's not an option. It's the adapter flywheel not OEM right?
I know right.. it’s a Ram clutches flywheel. I can fix the pilot. It’s already to two piece design. Remake the brass and make it longer. I have an old flex plate that’s .110 that I’m going to make a spacer out of. It’s half of what I need but it should make the clutch 100% on the spline and not on the edge.
 
Which TKX trans did you purchase?
If you purchased the the Ford version, it has a 7.21" input shaft length. The GM one has a 6.71" input shaft length. this is the only two transmissions they make, no Mopar lengths.
833 trans have a 8.5" input shaft length, with a 7.3 bellhousing depth both versions of the TKX input shafts are to short for the Quicktime bell you bought.
 
Which TKX trans did you purchase?
If you purchased the the Ford version, it has a 7.21" input shaft length. The GM one has a 6.71" input shaft length. this is the only two transmissions they make, no Mopar lengths.
833 trans have a 8.5" input shaft length, with a 7.3 bellhousing depth both versions of the TKX input shafts are to short for the Quicktime bell you bought.
Ford version. Well that would explain the shortness. Story of my life eh lol. They advertise it as small block/ gen 3 tko/tkx when they really shouldn’t
 
QuickTime use to make the right depth bells for the small block Mopars for the Ford and Chevy input lengths for the Tremec trans. but not any more.
I do not think they ever made them for the Gen III Hemis but not sure.
For reference the small block Chevy bell for the TKX is 6.29" deep, and for the LS engines it's 6.00" deep.
The small block Ford is 6.925" deep for the TKX.
Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but after Holley bought QuickTime they dropped most of the Mopar bells.
When I put the Jerico trans in my Dart, I bought the 18 spline 1 3/16 input for Mopars for the trans. Then I had to drill and tap one hole in my QuickTime(mine was for an 833) to bolt up the Jerico 4spd, three holes were already drilled and tapped on the QuickTime.
 
The longer 833 input shaft uses the inner pilot hole of the early engine crank. Too long for gen 3 hemi. The Tremec with the Ford short shaft uses the outer crank register for pilot bushing or bearing on mopar similar to Ford.
Could the Ford TKX have gotten the shorter GM shaft?
Just quickly looking at my quick time bell for big block mopar to TKX measurements the shaft length is .090 less than depth of bell. The crank extends roughly an inch out of the block. The bearing is in that step. Should be good. Yeah I know I need to get the clutch and pilot bearing stuff bought and I would know.
I am getting nervous on bell issues. The QuickTime does look cooler than the Lakewood.
 
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