Getting a 318 running?

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Gorrectamundo!!!! ^^^ As for the rust(?). ,hit it with a red Scotchbrite,and Simple Green. WASH THROUGHLY
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What does the timing chain look like?
Uese a harmonic balancer puller, (rent it) and pull the cover.
The oil pump pickup tube looks good, so I bet you have a decent motor.
 
Yea I thought the same thing... Cool man I will have some time maybe Sunday. Thanks for the help sireland67
 
I just pulled the pan off of a 1975 318, and two of the rods were the same color as your rods. I think it's a factory thing as mine had never been apart.
 
got the cover off today... took some photos, everything looked good except there seemed to be some slag on the chain. regardless i took some photos!

I dont know if my harmonic balancer is still good or my fuel pump.
 

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That chain is not that bad. Those engines did not come with a double roller drive, so it's been replaced at some point.

Please don't try to replace the timing cover without removing the pump

When you buy the timing cover set, get a FelPro they make one that has a shaft repair sleeve for the balancer. We used to call these "Speedi sleeves" which I think was a trademark of CR seals.
 
Cool thanks 67dart yea I took off the pump. So it looks good? How about the balancer and pump?
 
Can't say on the pump. The balancer looks pretty grooved from the seal, is why I suggested the repair sleeve
 
I would not, unless you get into and go through the engine
 
Chain looks alright to me, I would run that again in a heartbeat. I am betting that engine has been rebuilt at some point - no sludge, just a little varnish, brass freeze plugs, aftermarket timing chain etc. If it were mine I would pull the heads and have a look at the bores, pull a few bearing caps, and if everything looks good put it back together. I would add a new high volume oil pump just because.

Just my 2 cents, I am sure others might think different.
 
I'm betting that motor is good to go. New gaskets is always recommended when an engine sets and you don't the history. I will say what I would definitely do is put a new rear main seal in it. The small block mopars usually have a small amount of oil that will drip from the back of the oil pan due to this. It's cheap, and can be installed by removing the rear main cap. That is all I would do besides the new gaskets needed to re-assemble.
 
I would check the price difference. If I recall, it's cheaper to not buy a full set, but I could be wrong

Price out

Valve cover set
Intake set
Timing cover set AND MAKE SURE it has the balancer repair sleeve
Oil pan set

If you are a veteran (don't know about seniors) O'Reallys will give you a small discount.
 
Good photos are helpful. Thanks.

Everything looks good to me for a "used" engine. Is it me, or does anyone else see a reddish hue in several of the short block interior photos? Someone may have run some ATF through the engine. It is highly detergent and can be useful in cleaning out the inside of the engine without taking it apart. As long as it isn't left in there for an extended period or the engine isn't hammered with a lot of ATF in it, no harm done.

The oil pump screen looked good. Should be no problem with FOD in the engine. Sometimes there will be parts of gaskets and timing gear teeth imbedded in the screen. Didn't see what was in the pan. It may also be symptomatic of a weak oil pump having little suction.

Chain looks good. It's a double row, so the engine has at some time in the past been rebuilt.

Wouldn't worry about the creepy crawlys in the motor. Most of us have a story or two about a critter or object showing up in a place in the car you wouldn't expect, wasps in brake rotors, rats in dash boards, snakes in floorboards and spare tire wells.

Have fun.
 
Yep, those copper coated rods were done by Chrysler to fix problems/add weight is what I've heard as well. I have one in my 318 as well.
I'd do what everyone else has said, pull heads and check bores, pull a few rod/main caps to check bearings, or just buy a freshen up kit/gaskets and put all new wearable stuff in it.
 
I hear you guys, I'm gonna do the math as 67dart said and see how it goes. I found a full gasket set for $66 on eBay
 
I would inspect the main/rod bearings, pull the heads and check out the cylinders. If everything looks decent I would just re gasket it and put it back together.
 
O'Reallys shows a full set for about 70 bucks. Check around San Diego. Are you military or vet? They give you a small military discount
 
nice find sireland67! thanks!

a new gasket set it is!

as for inspecting the bearings would I have any issue putting them back? like reusable wise? not take the bearing off the cap, but putting the cap back on?


cool yea Ill pull the heads, what should I be looking for in the bores? smoothnes and no ridges?


thanks for all the help everyone!
 
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