Getting a ceased screw out of fiberglass??

-
RustyDusty

RustyDusty

Rabid Cross-eyed Opossum!
Joined
Jul 26, 2010
Messages
685
Reaction score
5
Location
Columbus, OH
*Seized. Not ceased ](*,)

Hi, this is a great forum first off. I love it!

Here's my problem. I just got a 1973 Duster with a fiberglass spoiler on it. The fiberglass is in perfect condition. The metal mounting brackets and screws which allow you to choose the angle of the spoiler are not. They are completely rusted, there is no bare metal. When I try to unscrew them they either round off with very very little torque, or they will not budge :thebirdm:. Most are to the point that I'm sure they'll break if I torq any harder.

My delimma with getting ceased screws out of fiber glass is;

1) Will PB Blaster harm the fiberglass?
2) I obviously can't freeze or heat them without damaging the fiberglass

Is my best bet to drill these screws out? There're 18 of them...

Also would an impact screwdriver work? Or am I just asking for trouble with one of those?

Cheers!
Drake
 
Can you post a picture of the area? Rust solvents should not harm fiberglass, just wipe off excess after treating the screws.

Depending on the area in question, there might be a couple of solutions. When you say "spoiler," do you mean a front air dam or a lift spoiler on the rear deck?
 
the screws aren't going to rust themselves to the fiberglass. if you can grind the heads off then remove the spoiler, you should be able to get a small vise-grip on the remainder of the screw and turn them out. pics would be good
 
Agree that penetrants should not hurt fiberglass.

2 suggestions for removing the screws:
  1. Enlarge/re-establish the screwhead with a Dremel tool and a cut-off wheel. If you do this on a crosshead screw, you'll need to lop the point off of a "Phillips" screwdriver to back it off. I bought a cheapie #0 and #2; and performed this tip-otomy. They have worked well.
  2. Find LH twist drill bits that are a little bit smaller than the screws. (Need to find an old school hardware store as the big box places don't have 'em.) Fit to a reversible, high torque drill. When the drill bit gets a good bite on the screw, the screw will come free. The screw may also climb up the drill bit. That's ok.
Good luck.
 
Thanks! It's a lift spoiler. I'll get photos up once I get a chance.

My real worry is that the screws will break off, not so much stripping the heads. I need a way to break them loose without breaking the screw. All 4 screws broke off that connected it to the trunk when being removed. I swear it couldn't have been more than 2 pound foot. They practically fell apart, and those weren't rusted!!!
 
Might have been Grade C (Chinese) screws. What size are the screws? I can't imagine anything like a 10-24 breaking like that. The screws must screw into the metal of the trunk lid. They are probably rusted in there, but they screws have been faulty or already broken.

I agree that the best bet is to soak them good over night and then go after them with whatever tool you need to get them out, even if you need to drill out or grind off the heads. If they break, put stronger screws in later. The worst that could happen is having to drill out the broken off shaft and re-tap the hole; not the end of the world. I would use something like big Allen cap screws, such as what the Superbird used on its wing adjustors, when re-assembling.
 
Dremel tool will always be in my tool box!

If you take your time with the Dremel tool, use the right bits, and you will never know you had a problem with the screws.
 
FISHBREATH said:
Might have been Grade C (Chinese) screws. What size are the screws? I can't imagine anything like a 10-24 breaking like that. The screws must screw into the metal of the trunk lid. They are probably rusted in there, but they screws have been faulty or already broken.

I agree that the best bet is to soak them good over night and then go after them with whatever tool you need to get them out, even if you need to drill out or grind off the heads. If they break, put stronger screws in later. The worst that could happen is having to drill out the broken off shaft and re-tap the hole; not the end of the world. I would use something like big Allen cap screws, such as what the Superbird used on its wing adjustors, when re-assembling.
Click to expand...

They broke off a few mm from the fiberglass for the most part. They were held to the deck lid by nuts, they weren't rusted on to the lid!!! These screws suck!!!

spoil.jpg


http://lh4.ggpht.com/_O4z1IHJ6w_Y/TFJwWmJLkOI/AAAAAAAAACI/p71UYT3ETrA/spoil1.jpg
 
Man, those things look bad. I have a Go-Wing in my garage. I'll try to take a look at it this weekend and see how the mounting bolts are placed in the pedestal.

You might consider disassembly with rust treatment and paint for the metal brackets. Definitely consider stainless hardware or good paint coverage to prevent reoccurrence after reassembly.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top