Getting block prepped for the hot tank

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ValiantOne

ValiantOne

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Hey All,

Got my 5.9 broke down to the bare block today. Took out the freeze plugs I could reach (gotta get the rear ones out when block is off the stand) pulled the oil galley plugs out of the sides.

Should I pull the small ones out behind the cam retaining plate?

What else should I pull? Should I chase the threaded holes before or after tanking? Or both?

Should I scotch brite the head surfaces first? Anything else I'm not thinking of?

Thanks!

CE
 
the cam bearings have to come out, either by you or the shop with the hot tank, BEFORE the block is tanked. Otherwise the tank gets contaminated, and will coat anything in the tank with a silver white residue.
I would suggest after pulling the soft plugs, you use a pressure washer to blast out the loose rust and sand in the water jackets before it goes in the tank.
 
Id go to the closest dollar store and get the non-fuming oven cleaner and soak it down real good, then hose it off. You will be amazed what that stuff can do when its left on the block for an hour or two!! That will loosen up all the loose grim from the block and the hot tank will be more effective. Make notes and pull every plug you can in the block, aslo cam bearings! I worked at a local machiene shop in college and that was my job, tear down and cleaning before anything touched our shop.
 
rustycowll69 said:
why? as long as you replace it after tanking and hand cleaning after honing and running brushes thru the oil galleries it shouldn't be an issue.
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No reason to take that one out. The solution gets to both sides of it. Unless you do it every day you are likely to forget it. And it's impossible to put it in after the fact. Too many guys leave out simple gallery plugs. No sense making it harder that it has to be.
 
yellow rose said:
No reason to take that one out. The solution gets to both sides of it. Unless you do it every day you are likely to forget it. And it's impossible to put it in after the fact. Too many guys leave out simple gallery plugs. No sense making it harder that it has to be.
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Not only that, I think it has to be pretty much exactly the right depth. I wouldn't mess with that one unless the block has a known oiling issue.
 
Add all this up and you have a winner . I would also add , 1/8" drill between the lifter pedestals to aid oil return, 3/16"long drill from main bearing journal to lifter galley for more oil volume to the mains (it is step drilled from factory) and debur the casting flash. I would thread chase the bolt holes before and after cleaning just to make sure . You'd be surprised at how much junk can be in there . Costs little , rewards are big . CHECK EVERYTHING !!!
 
As see in a previous thread that plug is a special size. Basic rule, if it don't need it don't do it.
BlockPlug360.jpg
 
dadodgekid said:
Id go to the closest dollar store and get the non-fuming oven cleaner and soak it down real good, then hose it off. You will be amazed what that stuff can do when its left on the block for an hour or two!! That will loosen up all the loose grim from the block and the hot tank will be more effective. Make notes and pull every plug you can in the block, aslo cam bearings! I worked at a local machiene shop in college and that was my job, tear down and cleaning before anything touched our shop.
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On my list of stuff to get today! Thanks
 
383Scampman said:
Add all this up and you have a winner . I would also add , 1/8" drill between the lifter pedestals to aid oil return, 3/16"long drill from main bearing journal to lifter galley for more oil volume to the mains (it is step drilled from factory) and debur the casting flash. I would thread chase the bolt holes before and after cleaning just to make sure . You'd be surprised at how much junk can be in there . Costs little , rewards are big . CHECK EVERYTHING !!!
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Is this where I would drill the 1/8th holes for the oil return?

oil return holes.jpg
 
383Scampman said:
Add all this up and you have a winner . I would also add , 1/8" drill between the lifter pedestals to aid oil return, 3/16"long drill from main bearing journal to lifter galley for more oil volume to the mains (it is step drilled from factory) and debur the casting flash. I would thread chase the bolt holes before and after cleaning just to make sure . You'd be surprised at how much junk can be in there . Costs little , rewards are big . CHECK EVERYTHING !!!
Click to expand...

And can you tell me which of these main journals is the one (color) you are talking about for the 3/16ths hole? Or is it all of them? Thank you!
mail journal.jpg
 
And you all think I should defintely pull the two small plugs behind the cam retainer plate?

I'll have to figure some sort of threading slide hammer thing to get those, but not too big a deal

thanks,

C
 
ValiantOne said:
And you all think I should defintely pull the two small plugs behind the cam retainer plate?

I'll have to figure some sort of threading slide hammer thing to get those, but not too big a deal

thanks,

C
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Yes. Take them out. You can also take out the screw in plugs in the rear of those oil galleries and use a long Rod and punch them out from the rear.

All of the main bearing feed holes should be drilled to .287 (9/32).
 
Pull off or out EVERTHING THAT CAN COME OFF OR OUT. You're aiming for a block that you can reach every spot with later to make sure all the crap is out of the oiling system. Leaving anything in can leave debris in the system and it's just plain lazy.
 
Yes, drill ALL the hole you have circled . Use a lot of lube and take your time . You don't want to break a drill bit off inside . Be SURE to chamfer the holes . Iused a chamfer from the hardware store . Go in about 1/16" is all you need . Just so the bearing won't catch . Easey/peasey
 
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