OH... something else about banjo fittings on the hoses (the part that attach to the caliper) they typically have a flat side that butts up against the caliper where it mounts to prevent it from rotating.
You can bench bleed in the car, same principal, just using the brake pedal to move the plunger.
ALSO.... WATCH OUT for squirts of brake fluid. I shot brake fluid 15 feet onto my sisters WHITE 65 mustang and didn't know it till the next day. needless to say the white under the brake fluid was no longer white! still haven't lived that one down!
ALSO ALSO...
Your new master cyl does not have the holes for the bellows to attach to, not sure if you want to drill and tap for it You might be able to use some adhesive to keep it in place. I suspect your new MC has a snap ring to keep the plunger in. If you do decide to drill and tap BE SURE to prevent shavings from entering anywhere. ALSO be careful how deep you drill, might get into the reservoir if you go too deep. you will certainly void any warranty if you do drill. Others can weigh in on the bellows. My Dart is missing its and there was a slight seepage for 4+ years when the car sat, that ran down the inside of the firewall and dissolved the paint on the floor under the carpet.
Not the rubber o ring on the brake pedal push rod but the acordian black rubber with the oval / diamond shaped flat plate with two holes photo in your post #24
ALSO ALSO... Your new master cyl does not have the holes for the bellows to attach to said:Do not drill the holes This is what it takes for the dust boot.
They are on most of the cars I strip 73 and newer with manual brakes. Jims brake parts may have them. I don't see them on his site but he may have them now. Pretty common on manual brake cars and trucks from 72 on up until they went with 2 bolt aluminum master cylinders. I may have a bunch more if you can't find one
Mopar Brake Parts | Jim's Auto Parts
A side note here based on that pic of the proportioning valve from the Diplomat..... Be careful laying stuff on top of your battery. Looks like it was on top of the positive terminal. You do NOT want the thing to ground out on the negative terminal or the hold down or the inner fender......
Thanks for the heads up, I'm glad the the guys on FABO see the little things like this. Small things like this are not only important safety reminders but also could save a car from big problems.
Ok ok let's let Doc off the hook.
Let he who is without sin (ie. putting things on our batteries) cast the first stone!
The little boot on the pushrod isn't really needed. I wouldn't lose any sleep over it. Unless you plan on driving in the dust all day long.
There is a rubber piece the goes on that rod to hold it in the master. Make sure you get a new one or the rod can come out and you will lose your brakes. This is a very important partGot it out
Yes I've heard of bench bleeding. This is my bench. It's more comfortable to sit on the ground right here than to be standing right now
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There is a rubber piece the goes on that rod to hold it in the master. Make sure you get a new one or the rod can come out and you will lose your brakes. This is a very important part
This is the cheapest I found them besides someone that is selling cut hose. the listing I posted is Ebay get them there do not get the cut hose
Mopar Manual Brake Push-Rod Retainer, Bushing, Clip, Rubber Grommet | eBay
Jims brake parts has them but the cost is over $60 as seen below
Mopar Brake Parts | Jim's Auto Parts
NEW!
KQ-BB1A Master Cylinder Push Rod SEAL (Goes on the plunger rod that goes through the KQ-BB1 boot) Various Make & Model $ 64.95
I have seen them come out when you have to pump the brakes. It only takes a little and it jams . And guess what? rock solid pedal and no brakes.The o-ring, or even the factory rubber thing, will not really hold that push rod in. It's always going to be fairly easy to pull out. But the pedal should not be able to travel up far enough so as for it to be able to pull it out. If the pedal can go up that far, something else isn't right.
If you have a full solid pedal I wouldn't have enough travel. You lose a little peddle and have to pump them your in trouble. I am telling this from experience from many years of working on and towing mopars. What I am telling you is a fact I don't care what you believe or what aftermarket masters have. Could be they were designed for later model cars with Power brakes. Jims brakes gets over $60 for that little retainer lock. wonder why. Not because you don't need itI understand what you're saying. I really can't see the push rod on my car coming out. I'll try to make it come out, and see if it will (when the car isn't moving). The other thing is... it seems that most aftermarket master cylinders do not have a groove/recess in them for the retainer to pop in to. I know the Willwood I have doesn't, and the push rod is held in only by friction between the rubber ring and the I.D. of the piston.