Yeah I guess I mighta read it wrong.
I used KB107 flat-tops with eyebrows, and cut the block to get .005 pop-up/ .034Q,and OOTB small-chamber Eddies.
I sure wouldn't run those fat-boy gaskets,no way.
You will not have hot-running issues traceable to too-much compression, with aluminum heads.. I run a minimum 205*F at the T-stat house.And I think the max is 205*F,lol, idling in traffic on the hottest days of summer,with 50% antifreeze and a 7psi cap yet. If you do the math on my stuff, it comes out to 10.9Scr I think. That's 752cc swept and 63+5+8.9- 1 in the pop-up =75.9cc total chamber size.
That makes the cr (752+75.9)/75.9= 10.9. I did run it at 11.3 with a 292/292/508 cam.
I'm not saying you have to run 10.9.
I'm saying I have no trouble with 87E10 and 34* power-timing in at 3400.
And running 9.5Scr with a teensy cam will only lose you something like 4/5% power, which is like 16 to 20 hp at the top. But that is close to one cam size. And under steady state cruising the 9.5 compression might lose a similar % of mpgs. This might work out to maybe 1 mpg.
The place you might notice the biggest difference in 9.5 vs 11.0 is at part throttle. Hitting the gas at 2800rpm with 11/1 is like fast forward, compared to hitting it at 9.5 in real-time. It's like POW!, we're gone; compared to "you want me to do what?", at 9.5
The difference is all at part throttle. And fuel consumption.
Try this on for size, figuratively speaking;Let's say you get the engine up to 60% VE at 2800rpm. The 9.5 engine might have an effective CR of .60 x 9.5=5.7/1, while the bigger one might have .60X 11=6.6/1. That doesn't look like much but it's about 16% more. That's like, a lot.
However, if the pistons are already purchased, they may be too far down in the hole, and you might just get close to 10/1 with the thinnest gaskets, and you have to stay away from Quench in the .080 zone down to something like.055 due to that zone wanting to detonate;so I have heard. In which case you might just want to slap the heads on and you get what you get.I think you can just tickle 10/1 with the .020 gaskets. And there's nothing wrong with that. Plus with aluminum heads, I think you can probably push into that .055 to .080 Q zone a bit.But I'm not a builder so you didn't hear that from me,lol.
That was not good-enough for me, so I cut the block decks down until the pistons popped out .005. Not cutting the heads makes them worth something at resale time.
Whatever you decide, 360's RULE!,lol
Did I mention tho, that at zero deck, you can run any street-cam from 268* advertised and up, without changes and I ran it on 87E10. I believe you might be able to go down 1 cam size for sure, to say a 262. But smaller than that and you will probably need to run 91 gas.
So there is that advantage too.
Whereas with the pistons down .040 or more, you will probably have to run the .039 gasket. Then it doesn't take much cam and the bottom-end gets soggy and then you need a bigger TC and probably gears too.
To my thinking;spending the money to get a zero deck was offset by the non-sogginess, the no hi-stall needed, and 3.23s to 3.55s ok (which I already had), and future flexibility. If you do the math on purchasing and installing say 3.73s and a 2800TC vs the extra machining, it's almost a no-brainer to get it done,now.
That's my 2cents
