Glamour Shots.. '62 Valiant Wagon

[slant six]

1/16/24:

I am continuing to slowly get items completed on the project.
Over the weekend we took a snowy jaunt up north to retrieve a proper A Body 8 3/4" Rear axle. It's not complete, yet I have all of the parts to make it so.

Lots of abrasive blasting and painting..... this is a blast.

Saving the Semi original/old Wheel Cylinders - They are made in the USA. A little honing and some blasting, and a quick coat of paint cleaned them right up!

Found Some Spare drums in my parts stash.. They cleaned up nicely.

Interesting markings:

Degreased backing plates from the donor axle:
I do need to sort out / weld / level the shoe pads on these.

Cleaned up nicely.

In the "Paint Booth"

 

[SleeperDart505]

What a cool wagon!!!!

 

[jeff alder]

In My next life maybe I'll Be a Journalist or a photo journalist..

I should get a better camera First.
View attachment 1715919553

At least you currently have excellent subject matter! It doesn't get more Moparish than that sweet wagon! It has to because a picture is worth a thousand words and that one breaks the bank.

 

[slant six]

Thanks guys. I hope you enjoy the documentation here, and I hope to enjoy the handling and performance of the car more this spring when I get it all sorted out.

 

[Darter6]

Posts like these help out everybody. You get to see the results and also get to do the "I didn't think about doing it that way". Your trailer hitch posts were top notch.

 

[slant six]

Posts like these help out everybody. You get to see the results and also get to do the "I didn't think about doing it that way". Your trailer hitch posts were top notch.

Awesome, Thanks Romeo, I am glad you appericate it.

 

[slant six]

1/22/24:

Got some things accomplished..

Started off the work day by truing the backing plates that was on the used rear axle I bought - Some of the "Rub Blocks" were rubbed a bit too much with a large gouge in some areas... so I welded and ground on those areas a bit.

After welding/grinding, one more trip to the blast cabinet - the repair was imperceivable.

Short Block assembly time:

The Crank and pistons were all assembled by the end of my session.

I am picking a New cam and Head so this engine should run very well - The stock stuff will be in the queue for reworking someday!

 

[slant six]

1/25/24:

I degreased and began to do a little derusting on the rear axle I bought a few weeks ago.

It was refreshing to work in the garage last nite because it was 30° warmer than it was the last time I was there - No Heaters or hand warmers needed whilst operating air tools.

New spring perches will also be welded on to replace some rust.

 

[slant six]

1/29/24:

I made some more progress in this ever-snowballing project.


I finalized the 8 3/4" Housing, New perches fully welded and cleaned/painted to the best of my ability.

I would have liked to dipped the part in molasses for a few weeks, but I do not have the time or tank so such a task.

The axle shafts that came with this rear end were typical O.E. small bolt pattern pieces that were redrilled to 5 on 4.5.
I converted them back to 5 on 4.0" Lug circle and threaded in some old 1/2-20 Studs cut them flush and welded up the 5 on 4.5" drilled holes.

I got the housing set on the leaf springs and the old 7.25" removed. I found time to take care of some other small fiddly things too: New Rear Brake Hose, Rear Brake lines for the axle, Mounting the rebuilt wheel cylinders in the backing plates, Cleaning the OE parking Brake cables (they were really nice under the Factory/dealer undercoating and paint overspray.)

Perch on this:
All welded and ready for paint.

Painted - Still lots of pockmarks in the housing, but at the going rate for these axles, I am okay with that.

Redrilled axles returned to semi-stock.

After the Blast Cabinet and Painting:

Housing Getting set in place:

 

[slant six]

1/30/24:

I found 2 productive hours after work yesterday to work a bit more on the wagon.

I got the new shock plates and U bolts, they are mounted in and tightened. Was also able to install the inner axle seals perform a bit of restoration on the axle bumpers as well as clean up the parking brake cables.
This car has the nicest OE Parking brake cables I have ever seen! they had dirt and lots of factory/dealer rustproofing on them but after a bit of wire brushing, they are immaculate!

I also got the brake backing plates placed on and the axles mocked up in the housing, if for nothing else, then for now just to clear a bit more workbench space.

62-Year-old OE Parking brake cables - Still a bit of cleaning to do on the gland end of things.

Axle bumpers resto:

Installed:

Done for the day - some things are coming together..

 

[slant six]

2/6/24:

I have slowly been fiddling with setting up a head for the engine on this build, getting all the correct springs, retainers, shims and seals can take a bit of time.

Other things have been happening too.

The brakes are coming together:
I had an A body hardline axle set that I bought years ago for another project, but I never used it - It needed some custom futzing to fit but I made it work. I suppose the axle vent location must have been moved on different years' 8 3/4" axles?
Still gathering some small parts for the 10" x 1.75" rear drums., The old single-pot master cylinder has been removed, and also gathering lines for the "new" master cylinder and proportioning valve.
I began a small refurb on the steering column and reinforcement plate that attaches it with the master cylinder to the firewall.
I plan on refurbing some of the firewall parts as well. Amazingly the other ' 62 valiant v200 that I have is somewhat trashy looking:

But, it has some nicer underhood parts than this wagon does, so I might be swapping some of those during the process.
Column Refurb: (don't mess up that turn signal switch)

I would like to clean and detail this mess:

I removed these parts and will be making my own '62 firewall gaskets. I am not sure if there is a source for these, and I did not care to begin to look.

Ready for abrasive blasting!

Fresh..

Gasket design class..

Getting there, slowly a little at a time.

 

[Hyper_pak]

Dan had those steering wheel switches a few years ago.
I put one in my Wagon.

 

[slant six]

Dan had those steering wheel switches a few years ago.
I put one in my Wagon.

Yes!, Of course, Stan.

I will not need one because this one is working great, and I intend to not damage it while doing restorative schutff!

 

[slant six]

Ding!

The gaskets are ready! - Come on down and get' em whenever is convenient for you.

 

[slant six]

2/12/23:

Breaking News:

OE Distrustrubution block replaced with Proportioning Valve, distribution valve combination. Added Master Cylinder lines for a 1969 Dart With Manual Disc Brakes.

A dual-circuit system with Front discs will be a welcome addition!

 

[memike]

Digging this build and the Trailer hitch, from a VW you said?

 

[slant six]

Digging this build and the Trailer hitch, from a VW you said?

Yes,
Yes, Look Here Starting on the post dated 4/11/22.

It gives a bit more information on how the hitch is mounted.

Curt #11000 is 39" wide, you need to cut ~1.5" from the tube on both sides and then resquare the plates in both planes and then reweld them.

I also cut off the "L" ears and made/welded them level for the application you need and then, they bolt into the frame rail with 1/2" grade 8 carriage bolts (hole drilling required.)

The hitch kit only comes with 2 carriage bolts and 2 serrated flange bolts (all grade 8) You will need 2 more of each. and 2 more of something like these. The parts I linked are too long but you need a block of metal similar to the ones provided that will go into the frame and sandwich between the rail, the carriage bolt, and the hitch.
I found some that were made for 7/16" carriage bolts and I filed them out to 1/2" they have worked fine.

Happy towing! Check those brakes!

 

[memike]

Yes,
Yes, Look Here Starting on the post dated 4/11/22.

It gives a bit more information on how the hitch is mounted.

Curt #11000 is 39" wide, you need to cut ~1.5" from the tube on both sides and then resquare the plates in both planes and then reweld them.

I also cut off the "L" ears and made/welded them level for the application you need and then, they bolt into the frame rail with 1/2" grade 8 carriage bolts (hole drilling required.)

The hitch kit only comes with 2 carriage bolts and 2 serrated flange bolts (all grade 8) You will need 2 more of each. and 2 more of something like these. The parts I linked are too long but you need a block of metal similar to the ones provided that will go into the frame and sandwich between the rail, the carriage bolt, and the hitch.
I found some that were made for 7/16" carriage bolts and I filed them out to 1/2" they have worked fine.

Happy towing! Check those brakes!

Yes, and thank you, I have front disk brakes and I believe to be 10" rear drums on my 8 1/4 rear now, 66 Plymouth Valiant, thank you again

 

[slant six]

Yes, and thank you, I have front disk brakes and I believe to be 10" rear drums on my 8 1/4 rear now, 66 Plymouth Valiant, thank you again

View attachment 1716207296

Yes, those should be sufficient and far superior to 9" drums round with a single-pot master cylinder. I would say those brakes should be good for 1500, maybe 2000-pound gross weight trailer as long as you are not driving like an ignorant school child with your trailer down the mountains. Next up air shocks and beef the leafs if you have a heavy tongue.

 

[memike]

Yes, those should be sufficient and far superior to 9" drums round with a single-pot master cylinder. I would say those brakes should be good for 1500, maybe 2000-pound gross weight trailer as long as you are not driving like an ignorant school child with your trailer down the mountains. Next up air shocks and beef the leafs if you have a heavy tongue.

Rear of my 66 now have 72 Dart four door 318 springs, air shocks with 70 lbs in them, 360, Hooker Super comp fenderwell headers that tuck up in the frame rail, bought them 6 years ago for my early A, so glad I did.. 2.8? Sure grip 8 1/4 so I am good to tow my 1957 Fether Craft I am converting to a smart bass/Crappie boat , its a cool 13' long barrel back speed boat from back in the day, I love this long to you have going on, perfect for so many things.

 

[slant six]

Rear of my 66 now have 72 Dart four door 318 springs, air shocks with 70 lbs in them, 360, Hooker Super comp fenderwell headers that tuck up in the frame rail, bought them 6 years ago for my early A, so glad I did.. 2.8? Sure grip 8 1/4 so I am good to tow my 1957 Fether Craft I am converting to a smart bass/Crappie boat , its a cool 13' long barrel back speed boat from back in the day, I love this long to you have going on, perfect for so many things.

View attachment 1716207299

I would say so. I tow my ValianTrailer with my Slant 6-powered stuff. I bet your boat rig will be lighter than what I do - I am sure it will be fantastic!
Enjoy living the A Body Life!

 

[slant six]

2/19/24:

Everything I can remove, clean or easily upgrade on the firewall / engine bay is getting that process done. Including the master cylinder, steering column, the associated mounting plate and brackets etc.
Included in that list is the voltage regulator, ballast resistor, horn relay, bottle cap windshield pump check valve assembly, bulkhead connector, battery feed and alternator charging wires which were burnt to a crisp. (I am not sure how the car did not burn itself to the ground before I owned it, and prior to myself rebuilding the main engine bay harness that housed these 2 severely over heated at one time wires)

I have already rebuilt, cleaned, and rejuvenated the heater box, heater valve and horns last year if you have been following along you knew that.. If you haven't that's okay, I am sure there are more ridiculous things that I will put here.
(I may need to visit those horns again because only one works, but they look fantastic.)

The previous owner had a body shop cut in the paint work under the engine bay, but the shop did a 1/3ass job and painted all of the wiring and connections seemingly everywhere, so that bothered me a bit, I had to make it right.
I cleaned and abrasive blasted the wiring connectors, yes I glass beaded the plastic and the brass connectors along with re taping/ re wrapping the 2 engine bay harnesses. One is the main wiring going from the bulkhead to the engine, horns, and everything starter/charging related.
The other is a small harness that runs the entire front end lighting. I suspect I had high resistance on some of the circuits due to the cruddy connections (green brass) that I uncovered. The abrasive blast cabinet solved that in a hurry.

I also got the front parking / turn signal lights rejuvenated.
They were not totally trashed, but can always be improved on. I broke one connector that was really corroded when I tried to disassemble it, so I have that to fix, but the lenses need replacing, so I found some new ones and the gaskets, well were 62 year old parking light gaskets so I ordered new ones along with some other supplies from DMT.

Firewall trinkets that got redone.
Many should be done with cadmium or zinc plating processes, but I do not have the kits for those yet, so abrasive blasting and painting will do for now.

Yuck, I hope to get this sorted out.

Bottle cap before blasting and respraying:

Firewall trinkets ready to be reattached:

Ruh Rough.... These wires got a little steamy.
Just the 3 high current wires needed replaced - all of the lower current wires appeared to be unaffected.

 

[slant six]

2/19/24 continued:

A good, solid parking light/turn signal indicator housing is somewhere under all of that undercoating / sound deadening material. Nothing a bit of chiseling can't solve.

It felt a bit like archaeology at the Roman Forum, but I uncovered some relics:

Blue over spray on the indicator wiring and and marginally argent galvanized semi-reflective housing interior? This can be improved..

Electrons do not flow well through the green terminals.

Cabinet time:

Blasted, ready for a respray:

Sprayed:

Also began a bit of battery tray repair:

 

[slant six]

2/23/24:


I got the battery tray reasonably sorted. Welded in, and smoothed the patch. It's there but you probably can't find it in the picture. I did a repaint of the tray and the arms supporting it. It should be the engine compartment color, but I have no idea what color the car is now after the previous owner resprayed it some shiny metallic blue, so I just used rattle can goods.

I also cleaned up the hood latch/catch mechanisms. The upper part on the hood should be galvanised.. I lightly blasted it to remove all of the blue paint that the body shop covered it in. I hope the blasting did not remove much of the surface zinc.

The hood latch on the radiator yoke is supposed to be cadmium plated - so no luck on buying the plating kit for that yet. I will just paint that metallic silver for now and can easily unbolt and replate it later as needed.

 

[slant six]

2/26/24:

I got a few more things detailed and accomplished over the weekend:

I realized when looking at the last picture, the previous shop did not detail the fender tag for some reason, so it was a bit rusty and nasty looking, I blasted it and tossed some blue paint on the tag and the screws.

I also installed the steering column, and did some sheet metal work, as some thin spots were hiding behind the ~1/4 of the factory sound deadener in some places.

I cleaned up the bulkhead connector and detailed the original bulkhead retaining clips.

I also set up some new terminals on my refurbished parking light. - I bought an open-barrel crimper tool and some Packard-style open-barrel crimp terminals from the local auto electrical store to perform a re-termination using female terminals on my parking light. I found a terminal housing that matched the parking light on my "scrap car wiring haness" it was out of something like a '78 New Yorker or something like that, so it has a lot of these odds n ends for many '60's-'80's Chrysler vehicles in a pinch. I think it has been hanging behind the man door in the house garage area for 20 years. It's a part that keeps giving.

I ordered some new hood insulation and Retaining clips from DMT. That cleaned up nicely.