Glyptal & best way to apply it?

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gagembassett

gagembassett

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Have a 360 that's coming back from the machine shop today. Long story short is the build is: turbo, around 650-700 hp, street/strip but mostly street. I would like to apply glyptal to the block in the valley and even possibly the webbing area as well. I know the block has to be CLEAN-clean for it to stick well. I was thinking about spraying down the engine with brake cleaner then using a torch to burn off the remainder or the carb cleaner, dirt etc. and also to get the block warm for the glyptal to stick to. Any other input?
 
Maybe lacquer thinner to cut any oil from machining. We used to use this stuff in our shop on bearing housings and never did much prep other than pressure washing.
 
pittsburghracer said:
I’ve just heard of cases where it’s come off and gone into the oiling system. It’s more time consuming but I like to clean mine up with a bur.
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I had thought about doing that, I figured I may just try it in the valley with quite a bit of prep. The webbing area I'm on the fence about.
 
I have applied it before. You need a very clean block and then I use a propane torch to wave across the surface.

You might think the block is clean but when waving the torch over the surface all kinds of stuff boils out.

I let it boil out and then wiped it with Acetone. Rinse and repeat until there is nothing left to boil out.

Wipe it all down really good with Acetone until a white rag stays clean and then you're ready to paint it.

Any less effort will result in the paint not sticking properly.

Tom
 
Sometimes I put more effort into it than others. It’s always a good idea to open up the drainback holes and drill a couple extra.

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pittsburghracer said:
Sometimes I put more effort into it than others. It’s always a good idea to open up the drainback holes and drill a couple extra.

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I did that. Once.

Once the oil is covering the block the paint doesn’t make the surface any slicker to aid in oil return.

I have never ever seen anything published that says otherwise.

And since 1980 I’ve never ever seen an engine just **** sand or anything else out of a casting that did any damage.

I say you are wasting time and money.
 
gagembassett said:
Have a 360 that's coming back from the machine shop today. Long story short is the build is: turbo, around 650-700 hp, street/strip but mostly street. I would like to apply glyptal to the block in the valley and even possibly the webbing area as well. I know the block has to be CLEAN-clean for it to stick well. I was thinking about spraying down the engine with brake cleaner then using a torch to burn off the remainder or the carb cleaner, dirt etc. and also to get the block warm for the glyptal to stick to. Any other input?
Click to expand...
I wouldn't use carburetor cleaner. It leaves behind a greasy residue. Brake cleaner works well and completely evaporates. I wouldn't think there's any need for fire. lol
 
It depends on the brake clean, some brake clean will cause certain coatings to bubble & lift as it dries/cures, a gallon of Montana wax & grease remover ain't that much & the right product for the job.
I'm with the "it ain't worth it" camp tho'.
 
I’ve seen it in a few engine I’ve taken apart. Only 1 it started flaking off. The motor was losing oil pressure for no apparent reason. The oil pick up was getting plugged off plus there was little red flakes throughout the motor. Complete tear down and a thorough cleaning and it was back on the road. Kim
 
Read the instructions from the paint manufacturer. A lot of paints require curing processes. Example: header paints get a bad wrap for not lasting long, but if you read the application requirements and curing requiments, you have bake the paint which most people don't bother to do.

Also Red Glyptal is not a block paint, its for electrical motor armatures- it's just something that old hot rodders did back in the day with the junk the had laying around that was better than anything else available. Go to the actual glyptal sight and look for the coaching that matches your needs, or better yet call them and talk to a sales rep about what you need.

As with any paint, surface prep is paramount too. Also chemistry. Some paints are happy to be around oil but the second they come in contact with coolant they start unbonding so you have to be careful with your choice if you do rebuilds.

As PBR said, painting is not gaining you much. Oilophobic coatings are hard to come by and most OEMs don't bother. A good polish of the surface will get you what you are after with oil return and no worries about paint flaking off and getting caught in the screen.
 
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