Gm hei conversion ignition coil.

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DumpsterFire

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Going to a gm 4 pin ignition module, what's a good thing to use for the ignition coil? Just a super sluggish 318, just looking cheap and reliable.
 
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E-coil can buy them through Rockauto.com

Application:
1995 Ford F150

E-Coils run cool, run straight 12 volts > no ballast resistor.

You will need one of these coil leads from e-bay to get from the e-coil into your mopar distributor cap.

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A different ignition is not going to make the difference if it's super sluggish. Have you tried tuning what's there first? And besides all that, we have a fine member, @halifaxhops (Ray) who can help you with all that. I don't know why all these members turn traitor and recommend anything else.
 
Really does not matter which coil, but for the stock look the Pet III goes in the coil holder and you can use the original electric coil wire. the GM you have to find a spot. As long as it has around .03 ohms you are ok. Like RRR said get it running first if your curve is wrong it won't help anything at all. Tune it then figure out what it needs to run stronger.
 
A different ignition is not going to make the difference if it's super sluggish. Have you tried tuning what's there first? And besides all that, we have a fine member, @halifaxhops (Ray) who can help you with all that. I don't know why all these members turn traitor and recommend anything else.
It's sluggish beacuse it's a 85 diplomat. I ain't trying to get it any better. Just ripping out the lean burn and going to gm ignition while I'm at it
 
It's sluggish beacuse it's a 85 diplomat. I ain't trying to get it any better. Just ripping out the lean burn and going to gm ignition while I'm at it
Got ya. If you did not know the dist. in it with the lean burn is locked out so you have to get a non lean burn one for it along with a different carb.
 
Got ya. If you did not know the dist. in it with the lean burn is locked out so you have to get a non lean burn one for it along with a different carb.
Yeah carb and distributor are going on the trash with all the other lean burn stuff
 
If needed I have all the HEI stuff around for sale most is listed. Biggest thing with the under dist plates make sure the terminals are waterproof the best you can just spade terminals lack. And one thing in not 8 kit the instructions make sure the 4 pin is grounded to the block don't trust just the dist. a burp in the ground will fry it., Electronic from the factory does not need the dist. grounded at all.
 
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If needed I have all the HREI stuff around for sale most is listed. Biggest thing with the under dist plates make sure the terminals are waterproof the best you can just spade terminals lack. And one thing in not kin the instructions make sure the 4 pin is grounded to the block don't trust just the dist. a burp in the ground will fry it., Electronic from the factory does not need the dist. grounded at all.
It grounds through the case though I thought
 
I would not trust it, block paint, hold down not grounding it right. See it all the time with point systems just run a small jumper from one of the two screws to the hold down bolt I recommend. Or a metal dist gasket hard to find now and $$$$

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I don't think I'd throw it in the trash. Believe it or not, people look for that stuff for correct restorations. You might put it up for sale. You could end up helping someone.
 
I don't think I'd throw it in the trash. Believe it or not, people look for that stuff for correct restorations. You might put it up for sale. You could end up helping someone.
I'll list the stuff for sale then. Figured it was worthless
 
I use some of the parts for lock outs for some FI systems other than that never had any one ask for one except once at Carlisle. That forum alot of people still run them. Big PIA to troubleshoot unless you have the tester which is really hard to find. Saw one once on FB.
 
I'm using a Lean Burn distributor with EFI myself. Cleanest way to get locked timing, so there's probably a buyer out there. And there's also people in places like California who need to pass smog tests
 
A different ignition is not going to make the difference if it's super sluggish. Have you tried tuning what's there first? And besides all that, we have a fine member, @halifaxhops (Ray) who can help you with all that. I don't know why all these members turn traitor and recommend anything else.

We are responding to the OP original questions. He already decided on the HEI conversion, we are showing him where to get the coil parts that work so well, as he asked.

And you dont have to spend $100 + dollars on a pretty red one to get the job done.

The title of the post says HEI Conversion....


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We are responding to the OP original questions. He already decided on the HEI conversion, we are showing him where to get the coil parts that work so well, as he asked.

And you dont have to spend $100 + dollars on a pretty red one to get the job done.

The title of the post says HEI Conversion....


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Go for it! I just like to try to help members help members.
 
That '85 Diplomat definitely came with the 9.2:1 cr pistons, Roller Block with the 302 closed chambered heads.

Plenty of potential there to wake it up, it just needs more fuel and a good ignition.

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Here is an '85 318 that I was able to buy the 302 heads off from. Can see it's a roller engine.

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Here is an '89 318 roller engine with a 1406 4 bbl adapted to the original intake manifold, points ignition here on first light on the run stand.
No slouch, ran out great in the D100 truck. Nice having the secondaries to play with... running on the stock roller cam.

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Woke it right up with the Old School parts. They just need more fuel, the 318s will take it in, and the sound of the engine deepens cause now it's able to work with the extra fuel.

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Showing here on RockAuto that your '85 Diplomat came with the 302 closed chambered heads.

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9.2:1 cr engine.


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No, not every E core coil will wok with HEI. Some are designed for CD ign, not inductive like HEI.

You do not need to run a separate ground wire with this conversion. I have done LOTS of these & on different brand cars. Roughen the mounting feet on the dist clamp. I use a cut off wheel & grind grooves such that it looks like coarse file teeth. This will bite into the dist body & make a good grd connection via the clamp bolt.
 
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