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Longgone

Longgone

John/68 Barracuda & Dart
Joined
Jul 12, 2005
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Newport News, Virginia
Today I was putting on my headers and was having a hell of a time getting my fingers in there to start the bolts. I took a small (2" piece) of 3/8 tubing and put the head of the bolt in the end of the tube. It held the bolt just tight enough for me to get the bolt started. Hope somebody else can benefit from this tip. If you have any tips post them here.
 
Here's one for you.

Before you take your engine and tranny out, cut the radiator support out at the edges of the opening. This will allow you to lift the engine and tranny out at a lower height and not need so much room above the car. the benifits of this are, 1. don't need a high garage ceiling, 2. makes it easy getting the engine and tranny out without tilting it as much thereby not as much chance of damaging the paint or other parts. 3. makes it easy to get in and out of the engine bay to do other work in the area.

When things are put back together you can weld or bolt it back into place using pieces of sheet metal for added support.

Jack
 
You say you think there's a vacuum leak but you don't know where to start looking? Break out the propane torch. Works every time. All you have to do is crack the torch open enough to get a slight hiss and run it around the intake runners, carb, vacuum hoses, etc. with the engine idling. Do NOT light the torch, you want it to be spewing propane. If the idle smooths out when you go over a spot, you've found your leak and can proceed from there. Been doing this for over 30 years and have yet to incinerate a car or fail to find the leak. Weirdest one I found was a cracked heater control panel. Hope this helps.
 
Just for fun and when I went to the track by my self.

I ran a pair of air shock line to the front of the rear tire's, I would stay in the car and hit a push button switch and a wind shield washer pump would put water down for me
so I could heat up the tire's, This worked very well for me and was very entertaining for some folks at the track or just in a parking lot.. Sound's silly don't it.
 
bah, the EASIEST way ive found to install headers...Take some 5/16ths all thread in about 2" or so, or some studs. Hold the headers up to the head and hand tight thread the studs through the header and into the end threads of the heads. Ok...so your headers are hangin, now what? You can go ahead and just pull the headers back and slide on the gaskets. I fumbled around before the studs and all that jazz, this is 10x more efficient. They will hold the headers, and far enough back for you to get those two inner bolts started at #1 and #7. Then the rest is cake. Last time i swapped headers in my cuda it took about thirty mins, most just getting the car high enough to angle the headers in :D
 
dartcuda said:
Good advice, can do the same thing with those hard to get to spark plugs.
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Been there done that. It is what happens when you have a big block with headers but don't get me wrong I'm not knocking big blocks at all.
 
guys, fantastic thread keep em coming, wish I had something to add.. let me see..oh ya, if you have a car lift in your shop, remember to duck when go to get another tool or you will end up with a crease in your forehead, hope this helps:headbang:
 
Heres a fun one, really easy. To stop your battery terminals from corroding. Take a penny and super glue it right in the middle of the battery between the positive and negative terminals. The pennt will take on all of the corrosion. Just change the penny as needed. Some of you probably already knew this, but im sure there is a few that didnt.
 
Hotwheelsjr said:
Do not try to remove a sending unit when you have more than 1/2 a tank of gas...
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ouch i can see how that was bad.

DONT REMOVE A GAS TANK WITH A TROUBLE LIGHT NEAR BY i know i burned my arm and the dart :( by doing so. be careful guys, just though id give you guys a reminder. if anything dont use a drop light(trouble light) near any fuel or liquid it will explode if hit by a cold substance (antifreeze, oil, GAS)
 
1966 dart wagon said:
ouch i can see how that was bad.

DONT REMOVE A GAS TANK WITH A TROUBLE LIGHT NEAR BY i know i burned my arm and the dart :( by doing so. be careful guys, just though id give you guys a reminder. if anything dont use a drop light(trouble light) near any fuel or liquid it will explode if hit by a cold substance (antifreeze, oil, GAS)
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Especially when you're on your back with the ***-end of your car jacked up and sitting on jackstands, just high enough for you to get under it and work...

I agree...drop lights and gas don't mix. Not one bit...

(BTW -- I didn't mean to edit your post...I clicked on "edit" instead of "quote" -- DOH!! LOL!!)
 
For that tight, hard to reach nut that you need to thread a bolt into..take a piece of latex from a disposable glove and lay it over the closed end of a wrench then push the nut in between the latex piece and the wall of the wrench. This will hold the nut snug in place while you thread the bolt into the screw.
 
73'-318VALIANT said:
Heres a fun one, really easy. To stop your battery terminals from corroding. Take a penny and super glue it right in the middle of the battery between the positive and negative terminals. The pennt will take on all of the corrosion. Just change the penny as needed. Some of you probably already knew this, but im sure there is a few that didnt.
Click to expand...
Cool tip, does it have to be a real copper penny?
 
i bet a copper washer or the like would do the same. make sure there is no corrosion/surface discharge from dirt or what have you on top of the battery draining voltage.
 
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