Got my new heads but...

[1930]

Wondering what might have happened here, filler rod but filling what? Same head also has a helicoil installed but I guess I should expect that or maybe not. Heres the sales pitch on the opening page...........These heads are reconditioned and come assembled with a “like new” appearance and quality, with all new Aeromaxx parts installed and a milled deck surface. These heads have outstanding features that include premium one-piece, stainless steel high-flow valves, heat treated and machined steel retainers and valve locks, seals, bronze wall valve guides, 3 angle valve job, and heavy duty valve springs. All heads listed accept their respective stock equipment (i.e. intake manifolds, exhaust headers and manifolds, valve train, valve covers, and accessory bolt holes) Must state cam lift when ordering head assemblies.

Like new??? Does that mean repaired imperfections??

Not trying to be a jerk just like some opinions on what the heck that might be filling?

 

[RustyRatRod]

Would you rather have had a head with a chunk out and a stripped hole? They are 40 plus year old castings. You want new, buy new.

 

[toolmanmike]

Looks like you got what they described. They are reconditioned with stainless valves.

 

[IQ52]

Just filling up the valve cover gasket rail imperfections so the valve covers don't leak. I've seen heads right from the factory with welded rocker stands and valve cover rails.

 

[toolmanmike]

I can't see the valve job but they don't look too bad. I would block them up chambers pointing towards the ceiling and fill the chambers with solvent. Check them tomorrow. If the valves are sealing the ports will be dry tomorrow and the chambers will be full.

 

[dibbons]

I'm glad I read this thread, I was just about to pour kerosene into the ports to check the valve seal. Much easier/efficient to pour it into the combustion chambers.

 

[HotLines]

I really like the premium one-piece, stainless steel high-flow valves

 

[ValiantOne]

Filler rod wouldn't bother me in the slightest. Helicoils, ehhhh. Not the end of the world though. Was the price right?

 

[lilcuda]

The factory filled voids in the castings all the time. I've seen it on many pairs of Mopar heads. Also, a Helicoil properly done is stronger than the original threads. Check to make sure the valves seal and bolt 'em on!

 

[Jim Lusk]

My son's 1970 440 heads have many heli-coils in the exhaust stud holes. When I first put the engine in my old Dart a few exhaust studs broke with very little effort. We wound up replacing them all, but some of the holes seemed soft.

 

[AJ/FormS]

As to the solvent test, I've always been happy with 20 minutes

 

[1930]

Would you rather have had a head with a chunk out and a stripped hole? They are 40 plus year old castings. You want new, buy new.

No point to this reply other than to try and make someone feel like a dumbass but Ok you win again

Looks like you got what they described. They are reconditioned with stainless valves.

Ok, glad to hear it then

Just filling up the valve cover gasket rail imperfections so the valve covers don't leak. I've seen heads right from the factory with welded rocker stands and valve cover rails.

Best reply, did not know this was common

I can't see the valve job but they don't look too bad. I would block them up chambers pointing towards the ceiling and fill the chambers with solvent. Check them tomorrow. If the valves are sealing the ports will be dry tomorrow and the chambers will be full.

Equally the best reply, thanks

I'm glad I read this thread, I was just about to pour kerosene into the ports to check the valve seal. Much easier/efficient to pour it into the combustion chambers.

Good point

I really like the premium one-piece, stainless steel high-flow valves

If you really like them than me too

The factory filled voids in the castings all the time. I've seen it on many pairs of Mopar heads. Also, a Helicoil properly done is stronger than the original threads. Check to make sure the valves seal and bolt 'em on!

Equally the best reply again, thanks

As to the solvent test, I've always been happy with 20 minutes

Ok, thanks for the input

Filler rod wouldn't bother me in the slightest. Helicoils, ehhhh. Not the end of the world though. Was the price right?

Thats exactly what I was thinking, with shipping ( guessing sorta ) bout 850 dollars, I didnt think it was too bad, looking for a set of aluminum but couldnt find a set that didnt require some modifications elsewhere.

My son's 1970 440 heads have many heli-coils in the exhaust stud holes. When I first put the engine in my old Dart a few exhaust studs broke with very little effort. We wound up replacing them all, but some of the holes seemed soft.

Ill have to be careful

 

[1930]

I can't see the valve job but they don't look too bad. I would block them up chambers pointing towards the ceiling and fill the chambers with solvent. Check them tomorrow. If the valves are sealing the ports will be dry tomorrow and the chambers will be full.

I guess kerosene or gasoline would work?

 

[toolmanmike]

I guess kerosene or gasoline would work?

I would use kerosene over gas if you don't have solvent. Watch those gas fumes.

 

[AJ/FormS]

Gas it too dangerous, and it is too volatile. It will evaporate too fast skewing the results.The gas will creep through the tiniest crack, that will make no-never mind to a running engine. You will be fighting a non-issue for days.
Kerosene or diesel molecules IMO are too big, and they leave behind an oily residue, plus they stink. But they may/will work overnight. The oil in the kero creeps sideways pretty good, but not so much down. And then you still have to clean it up when you're done.
Common parts-washer solvent works just right;results in 20 minutes.I have not found a better commonly available test-fluid.
Paint thinner, the more purified form of washer-solvent will creep almost like gas, so I stay away from that too.
Water-molecules are way too big and they stick together like glue. Just try pouring water through a tiny straw...
I don't actually fill the chambers.I only cover the valves, or the perimeter of the valves. I watch for the creep, in the ports.

 

[TrailBeast]

Gas it too dangerous, and it is too volatile. It will evaporate too fast skewing the results.The gas will creep through the tiniest crack, that will make no-never mind to a running engine. You will be fighting a non-issue for days.
Kerosene or diesel molecules IMO are too big, and they leave behind an oily residue, plus they stink. But they may/will work overnight
Common parts-washer solvent works just right;results in 20 minutes.I have not found a better commonly available test-fluid.
Paint thinner, the more purified form of washer-solvent will creep almost like gas, so I stay away from that too.
Water-molecules are way too big and they stick together like glue. Just try pouring water through a tiny straw...
I don't actually fill the chambers.I only cover the valves, or the perimeter of the valves. I watch for the creep, in the ports.

And I put it in the ports and watch around the valve head.
Here we go with the potato thing again.

 

[AJ/FormS]

I do whatever is easier. They used to pay me by the hour. Motorcycle heads are usually some form of hemi, and on those, splashing the liquid into the ports is often easier.

 

[1930]

I use kero in my parts washer, works great for me and its affordable. Ill try it and see what happens, dont have any other solvents that have any stability to them. Thanks everyone

 

[RustyRatRod]

No point to this reply other than to try and make someone feel like a dumbass but Ok you win again

That's not what I meant at all, but you seem to have it set that way, so why should I argue?

 

[JCFcuda]

How about Arrowhead cylinder heads,
Theirs Indy reconditioned cyl heads
Just buy them from a vendor and not Indy themselves .
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