Green Bearings

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Why are you guys so down on the OE tapered bearings,
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no one said i was down on the original stuff. just saying the garbage out there about greens being no good is false.
 
I agree with you as well Joe. I don't knock em, I just think green bearings are talked down upon. Tapered have their place. I replace quite a few taper rollers at work, so I still use them.
 
The green bearings were used because you can't use a tapered roller in a rear with a spool. That's the only reason anyone started using them to begin with in the 8.75.

Sure many rears came with sealed ball bearings and they held up just fine. I've probably replaced just as many ball bearing type axle bearings as I have tapered rollers. Neither usually get replaced because they broke but rather the seal fails and then you get dirt or water intrusion along with loss of lubricant.

And actually if you are taking them in and out the chance to introduce dirt into the tapered bearing is going to be greater. They will need to be cleaned each time.

The greens are fine, I prefer the Moser style with the clip but either will work just fine.
 
I am going to use the newer design with snap rings. I suspect the reason some might have problems is the press operator that installed the bearings. Was helping a friend today work on a front wheel bearing on a lumina that was replaced less then 6 months ago and is bad again. We'll be cleaning up the spindle and pressing the next one ourselves. A 60 ton press will make anything started crooked go right on. I have a hard time beleving a green could fail bad enough to push through an 1/8 steel retainer plate. I look at this as am apples and oranges comparison. Tapered is pretty much a lifetime bearing even if you abuse it, while the green is more like a front wheel drive where you know at some point you will be changing it.
 
furz4 said:
I am going to use the newer design with snap rings. I suspect the reason some might have problems is the press operator that installed the bearings. Was helping a friend today work on a front wheel bearing on a lumina that was replaced less then 6 months ago and is bad again. We'll be cleaning up the spindle and pressing the next one ourselves. A 60 ton press will make anything started crooked go right on. I have a hard time beleving a green could fail bad enough to push through an 1/8 steel retainer plate. I look at this as am apples and oranges comparison. Tapered is pretty much a lifetime bearing even if you abuse it, while the green is more like a front wheel drive where you know at some point you will be changing it.
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What torque number did you use on the big shaft nut when you replaced that Lumina hub bearing last time Furz
 
Oh and I've known some lifelong mechanics that are still hacks and butchers. Just because you've been doing it a long time doesn't mean you've been doing it right.

Not saying that anyone mentioned in this thread is a hack, I'm just sayin'...
 
furz4 said:
I am going to use the newer design with snap rings. I suspect the reason some might have problems is the press operator that installed the bearings. Was helping a friend today work on a front wheel bearing on a lumina that was replaced less then 6 months ago and is bad again. We'll be cleaning up the spindle and pressing the next one ourselves. A 60 ton press will make anything started crooked go right on. I have a hard time beleving a green could fail bad enough to push through an 1/8 steel retainer plate. I look at this as am apples and oranges comparison. Tapered is pretty much a lifetime bearing even if you abuse it, while the green is more like a front wheel drive where you know at some point you will be changing it.
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I've seen guys tack weld, in 4 places, the green bearing retainer ring to the axle shaft to keep it from moving. Something I wouldn't do, if the interference ain't right then I'd make it right. I also heat the retainer ring to 250F in an oven before installing.
 
Guitar Jones said:
Oh and I've known some lifelong mechanics that are still hacks and butchers. Just because you've been doing it a long time doesn't mean you've been doing right.

Not saying that anyone mentioned in this thread is a hack, I'm just sayin'...
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Your exactly right. When I worked for Hyster we had a few guys come and go and a couple had been around a long time and were the worst butchers/hacks you'd ever see. They didn't last long there.
 
I don't remember what we torqued it to. Did look it up and it was torqued to spec.
 
furz4 said:
I don't remember what we torqued it to. Did look it up and it was torqued to spec.
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That could be the problem, there are about 3 different torque specs out there for my Pontiac Grand Prix and I suspect your Lumina is the same hub and nut torque. I changed my hubs couple months ago and settled on 100 ft/lbs. There's 160 floating around out there and that's wrong.
 
Am pretty sure we didn't use 160 but I wasn't the one running the torque wrench, will make sure om torque this time.
 
i beleive its yukon or somebody recomends not to use green bearings on there axles at all!

and cool info about having to use the greens with a spool!

i am working on building a 8.75 3.91 posi for my 68 dart SL6 and i went with the tapered bearings.
 
805moparkid said:
i beleive its yukon or somebody recomends not to use green bearings on there axles at all!

and cool info about having to use the greens with a spool!

i am working on building a 8.75 3.91 posi for my 68 dart SL6 and i went with the tapered bearings.
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Actually, according to Yukon's site you can ONLY use green bearings with their axles. Not sure why they'd do that, but there it is.

http://www.yukongear.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProdID=5639

And I'll never use green bearings as long as I have a choice. I'm sure they work fine for all kinds of folks, and I'm sure people have run them for hundreds of thousands of miles, but I won't.

Placed side by side, its obvious that tapered bearings are a better design for this application. If you want to argue "necessary" or "overkill", feel free. I never said green bearings wouldn't work, I just said they're an inferior design in comparison with tapered bearings.

And as someone that knows how to grease a bearing, knows how to set end play, and knows that tapered bearings are a serviceable part (vs a throwaway part like sealed bearings are), I don't see why anyone would switch.

But that's just me, and we all know what opinions are like.
 
I just finished rebuilding my borg warner sure grip. I have decided to go with original tapered bearings. Never used the green so I can't coment on them. The axle end play is so easy to set that is is not a issue. I just want to use the original. If I had more experience I would install the sure grip in my 3.23 my self. Never have done it so not sure I want to attempt it. It would be fun though. I like taking things apart and putting them back together.

Dave
 
To answer the original question, if you use greens, use the snap ring style - not the one with the integrated retainer.
 
Thanks for all the replies. I am going to use the greens with the snap rings. All kinds of opinions on them, interesting to see all the differing views. My car will get driven so we'll find out soon enough how they do.
 
That's good to hear. I am getting excited about getting this finished and under the car. Am going to start off running the 3.23's but have 3.91 and 2.76 center sections also. Will be nice not to have to worry every time I run the car hard. Am hoping I can get into the 14's without having to go 3.91. Has done a best of 15.4 with the 2.76 one legger.
 
Many aftermarket axles are not designed for the factory bearings. hey are too long to work with the spacers too. Which is why they say run the Greens. I know spools and Tru Trac limited slips dont have the spacers so you have to run Greens with them too. Again, that's why they tell you to use them.. And Tru Tracs are a road race based limited slip.
 
SO, about these bearings....Where would a person get a new set of stock type tapered bearings? I need a bearing and seal kit for my B-body 8 3/4. Possibly with new adjusters...
 
Why would anybody want to take apart a Mopar and put it back together like a Ford???
 
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