Grew Some Big Ones VC

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Bea

Bea

Dodge Damsel
Joined
Apr 14, 2010
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Lakeland, Florida
Well Guys & Gals...

I've been a little scared to change the Valve Cover Gasket, plugs, rubber seals, etc...because I've never really done any mechanic work, but today was a new day! Grew some really big ones, went out there and Got'r Dun! Here's a few pics for ya' and if you have any ideas on what I should do for sealing the VC gasket the correct way...feel free to jump right in! ~ Bea

 

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Now would be the perfect time to adjust the valves. Nuthin to it. You got a service manual? We can help you along, too.
 
It's not quite as overwhelming as it seams once you get you head around it and hands on it huh? Good job!
 
Before I would do the valves, I would run a couple of quick oil changes with a good detergent oil. Maybe a thopousand miles each to get rid of some sludge. Doing a great job, keep it up!
 
jaws said:
Before I would do the valves, I would run a couple of quick oil changes with a good detergent oil. Maybe a thopousand miles each to get rid of some sludge. Doing a great job, keep it up!
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2x!! looks like it needs a good power washing! lol :toothy2:

JUST KIDDING DO NOT DO THAT!!:violent2:
lookin great tho, run the valves and gap them plugs! all the slant needs!
 
Gal after my own heart;car parts on the table linen.Some may have a different approach but I usually put gasket shelack on the valve cover then stick the gasket on the cover and let it sit for about 30 minutes before I put it back on.Reason being,if you need to adjust the valves again,when you pull the cover the gasket stays on it and you don't have to worry about breaking it.Just clean the oil off of it and slide it back on.Great job,carry on!
 
d5667 said:
Gal after my own heart;car parts on the table linen.Some may have a different approach but I usually put gasket shelack on the valve cover then stick the gasket on the cover and let it sit for about 30 minutes before I put it back on.Reason being,if you need to adjust the valves again,when you pull the cover the gasket stays on it and you don't have to worry about breaking it.Just clean the oil off of it and slide it back on.Great job,carry on!
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also just start it before reassembly
 
I promise you Bea, it's a cakewalk. I wouldn't be tellin you that if it wasn't true. If you can change a valve cover gasket, you can adjust the valves. It's simple, I promise. Also, jaws has a GREAT point about the sludge buildup. Although it's not a lot, you do have some starting. There are several different products on the market for that, but Sea Foam is probably one of the best. Just follow the deestruckshuns on the can and it will work great. You can actually put Sea Foam in the tank and run it through the carb, but you need it in the engine oil. Just add however much the can says into your valve cover where you put the oil. It works good.
 
Ok Guys...everyone jump in here and answer...I have question from all of you posts.

I've already added a can of STP (advice from Roscoe) 3 days ago.

I have the Permatex-Red-High Temp gasket sealer/maker and a "Cork" valve gasket, will the Permatex work in stead of the shellac...if not what brand of the shellac do you use...Indian Head by Permatex?

As far as doing several oil changes...I'm all for it and was wondering what you think about Auto-Rx? It is not solvent based like Seafoam...would that mean it easier on the engine? or just use Seafoam, as recommended?
 
Bea said:
Ok Guys...everyone jump in here and answer...I have question from all of you posts.

I've already added a can of STP (advice from Roscoe) 3 days ago.

I have the Permatex-Red-High Temp gasket sealer/maker and a "Cork" valve gasket, will ththe Permatex work in stead of the shelack...if not what brand of the shelack do you use?

As far as doing several oil changes...I'm all for it and was wondering what you think about Auto-Rx? It is not solvent based like Seafoam...would that mean it easier on the engine? or just use Seafoam, as recommended?
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For the VC gasket, here's all you need to do. Easy. Leakproof. And the gasket will be re-usable for a long time.

#1. Remove old gasket and get the gasket mating area on the valve cover AND head squeeky clean.

#2 Apply an even bead of a good RTV sealant on the mating surface of the valve cover. Put the new cork gasket on the valve cover, flip it over, and put it on a flat surface with some weight on it for a few hours. Overnight is better. Youare basically gluing the gasket to teh valve cover with the rtv.

#3 Here is the important step. Before you re install the valve cover and new gasket, put a thin layer of grease on either the head or the vc gasket. It's easier to put it on the valve cover gasket which is now nicely glued to the vc itself. So you want a thin layer of grease between the head's mating surface and the gasket (which is glued to the vc).

By doing this, the valve cover can be removed as often as you like, and the gasket will not stick to the head. The grease probably does a small bit to help against leaks too. Just be careful not to overtighten the vc bolts.

Hope this helps. It sure works for me.

codfish
 
Codfish said:
For the VC gasket, here's all you need to do. Easy. Leakproof. And the gasket will be re-usable for a long time.

#1. Remove old gasket and get the gasket mating area on the valve cover AND head squeeky clean.

#2 Apply an even bead of a good RTV sealant on the mating surface of the valve cover. Put the new cork gasket on the valve cover, flip it over, and put it on a flat surface with some weight on it for a few hours. Overnight is better. Youare basically gluing the gasket to teh valve cover with the rtv.

#3 Here is the important step. Before you re install the valve cover and new gasket, put a thin layer of grease on either the head or the vc gasket. It's easier to put it on the valve cover gasket which is now nicely glued to the vc itself. So you want a thin layer of grease between the head's mating surface and the gasket (which is glued to the vc).

By doing this, the valve cover can be removed as often as you like, and the gasket will not stick to the head. The grease probably does a small bit to help against leaks too. Just be careful not to overtighten the vc bolts.

Hope this helps. It sure works for me.

codfish
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Thanks Codfish...that I can surely do!
 
Hey...let me throw this at ya'll, as well...You know I recently installed a new Exhaust Manifold and painted in the High-Temp (Orange)...How come it came off? Shouldn't it stay on the manifold? Did I miss a step somewhere?
 
I hate to disagree right off the bat, BUT, silicone is not, nor has it ever been designed to be used with a gasket. It is designed to be the gasket. If you read on the tube, it clearly says gasket maker. I'm not sure about the grease either, because gaskets are meant to be installed dry. Usually, any grease or oil between the gasket and its sealing surface will not allow for a good seal and will result in a leak. The best thing to use on cork gaskets is an adhesive to simply hold the gasket in place, to allow the valve cover to be handled without disturbing the gasket. There are many different things on the market, but what works best for me is a product called 3M Yellow Weatherstrip Adhesive. Also known as rhinocerous snot. You can find it here:

http://www.shop3m.com/60455029953.html

Adhesives such as this are acceptable because they dry completely and all they do is hold the gasket in place. Simply apply a small line of it around the perimeter of the valve cover gasket flange, lay the gasket on and "tap" the gasket against the valve cover rail with your finger until it is adhered. This will not take long at all. It will be completely dry in about 10-15 minutes. Maybe a couple times around and that's it. Everybody does things different ways. You are likely to get as many different answers on here as there are members. I don't know if anyone makes a rubber valve cover gasket for the slant or not, but that would be the way to go if they do. When it's time for another valve cover gasket in the future, you will have to remove the gasket from the valve cover with wire wheel or a stout gasket scraper. It is not a hard cleanup, but I would rather put a little effort in a cleanup the next time around, than risk a leak because of grease and silicone improperly used on a gasket. Here is a link to the Permatex web site. I can think of no one who knows better than they how to use silicone gasket maker.

http://www.permatex.com/products/Au...ermatex_High-Temp_Red_RTV_Silicone_Gasket.htm

Notice this statement: "Replaces almost any cut gasket by making reliable “formed-in-place” gaskets that resist cracking, shrinking and migrating caused by thermal cycling."

As I said, silicone is designed to replace conventional gaskets altogether. If that is something you want to do, then you can use about 1/4" bead of silicone around the valve cover rail. However, if you have never worked with silicone before, I would not try it for a first time. It can be somewhat aggravating until you get the knack for it.
 
Bea said:
Hey...let me throw this at ya'll, as well...You know I recently installed a new Exhaust Manifold and painted in the High-Temp (Orange)...How come it came off? Shouldn't it stay on the manifold? Did I miss a step somewhere?
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No. Most standard high temp paints only resist heat to 500 degrees. Unless it specifies "header paint" and you see on the can that it will meet or exceed 1200 degrees, it's comin off. It will probably eventually come off even then. The Eastwood Company sells some nice products to coat your manifold that will last a lifetime.
 
go get'm girl, dig in.

nice to see someone else just diving in (literally from your pic :p ) as I have done a bit myself. I know its scary but these great people at FABO will help.

I haven't opened up my valve covers yet, I'll pay attention to your progress for when I do. I'm working at tearing apart my carb and suspension a bit, when I get time.

best

show us that CAN-DO!
 
Today , I finished the VC gasket installation and put it all back together. It wasn't too bad. I just want to say thanks again for the help. Also, I went with the 3M™ Yellow Super Weatherstrip and Gasket Adhesive...worked fantastic! Here's some pics of the job.

Now on to my next area...broken manifold stud...see my new post on that one!
 

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StrokerScamp said:
I'm not sure about the grease either, because gaskets are meant to be installed dry. Usually, any grease or oil between the gasket and its sealing surface will not allow for a good seal and will result in a leak. .
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Been using the rtv and the cork gaskets with the grease now for 20 years and NEVER a leak on the valve covers.;-)

codfish
 
I am so proud of you Bea :thumleft::happy2::happy2:
Looks like we both had a day with our Valiant's
Enjoy and keep moving forward.
 
Codfish said:
Been using the rtv and the cork gaskets with the grease now for 20 years and NEVER a leak on the valve covers.;-)

codfish
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That's why I said everybody doos it different.
 
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