Guess ET for 318 ? With slicks ???

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joedust451,
Your car is running great and you are making the right choices.

When a car run's down the track, and no matter how fast it is,everyone has in there mind what should be under the hood, and most of the time they are correct.
Plenty of performance parts and way more stuff then they are really getting any use out of.

BUT when they are wrong, it is always someone going just as fast or faster then everyone else with hardly what they would consider performance parts.

((( buy the way you could include me as one of those people.)))

I am very happy to see someone go faster then they should with less.

Let's face it,if you spend enough money, you will be the fastest kid on the block, BUT if you do your home work and learn how to get the most from a lot less,the kid with the fastest car will be knocking on your door wondering how you almost beat him with your nothing motor. :thumbup:
 
Did anyone else see where he said he was shifting at 6000rpm? With those heads, I'd say you could knock some time off by shifting at a lower RPM. Call me crazy, but I'd leave it stock, and try shifting at around 5500rpm, and see what happens. With that cam, I think 6000rpm is too far out of his powerband. Let me know what happens. Good luck.
 
I did not see a mention of any headers being on the car? headers and exhaust will free up some extra ponys.

And to be honest I think you are over carbing that 318 with a 750 unless you have it jetted way down.....correct me if i am wrong but stock they came with just over a 500cfm carb.

I think a good 600cfm is well suited for a 318 easy enough....then again I think a 670 holley street avenger would turn a 318 on great aswell.

I think the 4.56 gears would for sure get you a good jump out of the hole but not sure how far you can top out with it and without knowing if your internals are stock or not....you wont want to run at high rpms for very long on stock or mostly stock 318 unless you have no problem with walking home of course lol

good luck either way
 
Car has 1 5/8 dynomax headers and 21 year old flow tec terminater mufflers.
The 750 dp is what i had ,and is not hurting the cars performance.
It has very good low end power,so much that i can't keep the tires from spinning,even on a roll in first gear.
The cam is perfect for a 9 to 1 motor and offers power all the way to 6000 rpm's.
Shifting lower could possibly give me a better et,but it's not a struggle to get that kind of rpm from it at all.
It goes to 6000 rpm's pretty quick.
On one of the last run's. i did shift it at 6000 rpm's into 1st, and then at 5500 rpm's into 2nd gear.
It went less mph.
The higher i shift it into first and second gives me the best mph.
I have only been to the track one time with it, so i will have to say that anything is possible at this time.
As far as a stock motor lasting,i have seen many stock motors last and never break.
There is not much difference between 5500 rpm's and 6000 rpm's.
If all it took to break it, was 500 more rpm's ,then how long would it last at any rpm??
If i said i was going to 7200 rpm,i would see your point.
The cam is a paw super stock industries camshaft but is really a crane cam made for paw.(crane cam's rest in peace)

If you think 6000 rpm's is high,then go to flatlander racing and look at the isky cam shafts they sell and there suggested rpm band compared to there size @ 50 thousands lift.
A cam they sell is 224 @ 50 and .465 lift with a 108 lsa.(280-hl)
My lift is .453 but all else is the same.
They give it a 6500 rpm band.
It really depends on what motor it's in.
This 318 love's to rev and hit's very hard into the next gear.
 
joedust451,
Your car is running great and you are making the right choices.

When a car run's down the track, and no matter how fast it is,everyone has in there mind what should be under the hood, and most of the time they are correct.
Plenty of performance parts and way more stuff then they are really getting any use out of.

BUT when they are wrong, it is always someone going just as fast or faster then everyone else with hardly what they would consider performance parts.

((( buy the way you could include me as one of those people.)))

I am very happy to see someone go faster then they should with less.

Let's face it,if you spend enough money, you will be the fastest kid on the block, BUT if you do your home work and learn how to get the most from a lot less,the kid with the fastest car will be knocking on your door wondering how you almost beat him with your nothing motor. :thumbup:

I've been there, dumped a ton of money & had a mix match of parts, I guess its like anything, you ask the same Q to 10 people, you'll get 10 different answers, so in the end, your left in the dark & on your own, thats how i've learned, I do still like to ask Qs just in case, but i always end up being confused this way, so i just go back to my own instinks, if it backfires, its on me, I also look to see who is going fast "for less", those are the guys i pay attention to anymore, & the funny thing is, those are the guys that are NOT cocky asses.
 
My former 66 cuda automatic w 318 pocket ported heads and 8.3/4 rear ran 14.6 w 3.91 gears. I had trans done to take up to 500hp as well as rear custome built. Was going to have motor done next, before an old man hit me coming out of his driveway and totalled car. Had 6k invested in car..all I can say is keep you receipts for any and all work done, as I got it back from insurance company. Was looking to get car into 12's but stuff happens. Now waiting for newly redone 65 cuda formula S. Similar set up but small rear for now. I plan to drive it and some fun at strip for now. Eventually want to get back to street class bracket fun. Was good when I raced at Great Lakes Raceway up in Wisconsen. Has been a few years and want to get back to fun on weekends. The 65 is in good shape now and dont want to hurt it...yet. I blew rear of 66 on starting line after winning semi and straight back for final ..must have been to hot and crunch. If you want to race build a 8 3/4 rear have it narrowed and it will last. When I had it done it cost 3k sold it for a little less after the wreck. Wish I still had it but moved and could not carry it around. May be looking for one down the road but need to spend what I got left on a decent paint job for 65, my new baby...
 
I use the same gears (4.56) and my car weighs about the same. Only difference is my car has a mild 383 4speed.

2.94 gears=16.35

4.56 gears=13.25
 
I ran 4.56s with 26 inch tires In vegas,had to shift at 6,400 to go tru the traps at 6,800 barely on the limiter.Car is a light slant six car and went 11.97 at 109. all motor.I will run 28 inch tires next time at the 1/4 to get the rpms down.Going for the national record of 11.88.I would think your car would like 4.30s,dont think you will like the highway gears.
 
madmax,
Good luck with breaking the record.
I will be going to the 4.56 after the 2.94 gears.
I think 4.30's would be great too,but this is what i have to work with.
A six in a drag car is so cool.8)
 
I am currently running bottom 14s with my 318 in my Duster, using a 3.21 gear and 235/70/15 tires. The tc is a 2300-2500 stall unit.

I would guess that there is a chance of a high 13 out of your setup.
 
I have not been on A-bodies only in a while, and have not talked to anyone on here for some time .....but and i hope all is well with everyone.

I wanted to complete my cuda for some time by installing a 8 3/4, but getting all the parts turned out to be a longer road then I thought it would, and that dam 7 1/4 just wouldn't break.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------

I will be going to the track at last and i just installed the 8 3/4 with the 4.56 gears first.
The 2.94 gears will go in next, after running the car a few times at the track.

I posted in the thread that I would guess my ET before I raced................................ so here it is.


With 4.56 gears.............13.50

With 2.94 gears.............14.10

I will be back with the results after racing this week.:burnout:
ps. thanks again to everyone who replied to the thread.
 
I wouldn't be afraid of the low gears. Optimal? maybe not, but the first 1/2 of the track is the hardest, and if you can hook, the low gears will help a bunch. How do I know? My mismatched Barracuda shifts at 5,000 rpms. flat, any higher it slows down. I have a 28"ish tire. 4.86's went 12.40 @ 103 and change. I tried 3.91's as everyone said I was way over geared. It went a best of 12.6. Mph increased, due to actually pulling on the top a bit, but it was definatley slower. 13.70's is my guess with the low gears.
 
Flatlanders/isky are full of it if they think that 224 hyd cam will roll to 6500 in a 318. It may get there in a 273, still doubt it. XE268H comp cams, 224 at .050, with more lift fall off in 340's right about 5300-5400. 360's about the same range. Comps range for a xe268h is up to 5800.

I'd bet it's falling off at 5300-5500. I did that way back with a bunch of people, they shift at 6000, I jump in it and shift at 5500 and the car picks up. Try it and see how it does. Sometimes it will flat fall off once you get beyond a certain RPM, et wise. Seen cars that peak at 5500, shifted at 5600 and it lost .10, whether you shifted at 5600 or 6000... didn't matter the et was gone.

It might actually run pretty good with the 2.94's and slicks, act like a glide. You might be able to really lay into off the line and work the converter HARD.

60' is more important than most anything else at the track. Start trimming that down and you'll see ~2x that most of the time at the 1/4 pole. 60's below about a 2.0 and better closer to 1.9 should yield a 13 second time slip.
 
Well I just bought a set of drag radials and will be going back to the track this week.
I raced twice with just street tires and 4.56 gears and it was in the 14.30's to 14.40's coming off the line really easy.
It went 94 mph and i shifted at 6000 rpms.

I think it's got what it takes to be a very good bracket car.
On my first elimination run, taking it really easy-- but also trying to duplicate my time trial,the car went a 14.414 on a 14.41 dial in.
Four thousands off my dial.
Without any slicks on the car ,it was just plain luck.

I did not care for the spool too much so i changed my gears today with a new center section with 3.91's in a 741 case with a sure grip.

It will most likely go the same mph.
The 456 gears did not slow me down but i think the car will go just as fast with the 3.91's.

This is the same gear my 7 1/4 rear end had and it went 94 miph.

I have a three inch exhaust system now and a proform 750 race carb.
BUT>>>>> i had to put on my old --non clutch --fan to keep it cool and i think it evened out.
I ran it before with a clutch fan and a 2 1/2 inch exhaust system.

I pulled my air cleaner for a run and it went no faster at all.
My 318 has everything it needs now to start being tuned in.

I traded my 2.94's for the 3.91's so i won't really know how fast it would have gone tuned in.

I think the car after all this work will be a 14.10 to a 13.80 car.
I am not sure though.
If i can get more mph out of her ,she might be around where i thought she could go before.13.50's.
It seems like a big number from where the car is right now but we will see.

My short times where in the 2.10 to 2.20 area.
I should be in the 1.9's with the drag radials.

Cheers to the 318.:burnout:
 
My first "Teen" in my 65 Barracuda went 13.92sec @ 98.** mph in the 1/4. Stock rotator, Crane Blazer cam (a little biger then yours), Ebrock Performer, 3310 Holley, Thorley "D" Dart headers, 66 273 heads with 1.88, 1.6 valves, cut .030, 8 3/4 with 3.55 gears, 225/70x14 street tires. 60ft times were 2.1sec. Car was full interior, all steel and rust.

With the 4.56's I think you'll run out of motor before you go out the back door, it may rpm but it's layin' down and pullin' slow........maybe 13.8

with the 2.94's, I think you'll be wantin' (re: needing) to shift before the line.........maybe 14.2



Years later and different engine, I tried 2 speeding in the 1/8 and was on my chip (7400) before the line; 28 inch tall tire, 4.88 gears.

Something to think about.
 
I think you're right on with the 3.91's. A low gear set in the transmission would be the next thing I'd try. Once you're hooking that should get the short times down.

As for increasing MPH, your heads are the limiting factor there. A set of 302's with big valves or better yet Magnums.
 
I thing your 60" time should be better and i thing a smaller carb would help that out....could be wrong but ........

2nt, You said in a earlier post that when it shifted into 2nt gear, that it shifted really hard.........If your motor has ran out of breath and is not pulling as hard.........the shift will fill harder as you have been loosened from you seat, by the time the shift has happened.........Kind of like shooting a shot gun when you don't have it firmly too your sholder......It kick Harder!
TEST IT, shift into 2nt at 6200 and see how it fills and how what the et is. Then shift at 5800 and see if your seat of the pants feels the same as the et it produces.
Try it, prove it to you self.
Try a 600/650 carb:burnout:
 
I went back to the track in the fall of 2012 and on my first run, second gear started slipping so bad it stopped working all together.
I drove it home real easy and took it to my cousins shop and pulled the 904 trans pan off.
The front band for second gear was so out of adjustment that i took over a half inch of play out of it.
I cleaned the pan out of material and filled her back up.
I drove it and it shifted great.
I have been waiting for it to fail but it has not.
It shifts really quick into second now.
I thought it was shifting to slow before.

I will be going to opening day this coming weekend for the first time in so long.

I have a set of 26 inch mickeys to go with the 3.91 gears.
I tuned it the best i could on the street and i will make some jet changes at the track.
Your guess is as good as mine on my ET now.

I think sub 14.00 seconds are possible.

I plan on running it this way and then porting the heads.
They are the 920 closed chamber 1967 head.
Can't wait to see what they flow after port work.
I Hope to post a video of the runs.:burnout:
 
This is such a old thread that it's like a log book for my cuda.

I will be racing this Sunday or --Monday (rain date)-- at Lebanon Valley Dragway in New York at Musclepalooza.

I have a set of 3.91's and a 28 inch tall Nitto drag radial on the car at this time.

The car's 60 foot should be much better... and as far as the ET....:scratch:

My guess is.....14.10 to 13.90 tuned in.

I hope to post a video.

I think this is the combo that everyone wanted to see run.
Off to the races........... :burnout:
 
Keep it simple my friend My 66 cuda similar set up ran low 14's high 13's with good tune and good practice. When running the track it is consistency and good lights that win races in any class! I was very good street class racer back in my day 14 yrs ago with that car before its demise. I now have a 65 formula s with a 318 not as hot a set up that will run a 15 second quarter mile easily. Just do some good head work to it and keep the rear end modest so you can drive it down the road modest rpms! Have fun and enjoy the ride!

65Cudalover!
 
Back from the track today and all is well.

The plugs looked a little rich when i checked them in the morning when leaving but my 72/82 jets stayed in the carb and me and my cuda went racing.

28 inch tall tire(nito drag radial)
3.91 gears

The car went 1st pass ----14.325 @ 92.67
2nd [email protected] on a 14.33 dial in
Both me and the guy i was racing ran under.
I was closer to the dial in.
I won 1st round

3rd [email protected] on a 14.28 dial in.
I ran under even on the brakes.
I would have gone over 93 mph and would have run a 14.23.

I:sleepy1: slept the light

Buy the way -----I will have to say there was a very strong head wind putting a monkey wrench into the mix.

Man i miss my 4.56 gears.
My 4.56 gears are on a spool and being not the greatest on the street i installed 3.91's with a sure grip.

AND--- The clutch fan was sitting too far away from my radiator and the engine was getting a little hot.
SO........
The stock steel fan was installed and now it stays cooler.
I think the clutch fan was worth a little over a 10th in ET.

If it still had the 4.56 gears in the car and the clutch fan installed it would be very close to 14.00
and after leaning the carb it should be in the 13.80 to 13.90 range i would think.

It could be time for the bigger cam ,convertor and some ported heads OR .......just enjoy the 318 the way it is and go racing at the track on a sunny day.
That 318 gets more wows by people just because it's a 318.

IT'S A 318......REALLY.......WOW.....LOL.:drinkers:CHEERS TO THE 318.
 
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