"H" or "X" Pipe advice Please

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Brad426

Brad426

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I was thinking of installing a “H” pipe in my 3” exhaust system where the green tape is located for a few reasons but, #1 is simplicity of the location. I have lots of room here for an “H” pipe and it makes for the rest of the system to be clean and better for maintenance. The tape is between the two TTI adapters and from the adapters’ straight back to a pair of Spintechs. Questions:
Which is better, “H” pipe or a flowing cross over pipe?
Is the location of an “H” pipe or cross over pipe critical?
If so, how is the location calculated?
Would my location be acceptable for street & Friday night drags? (Just out for fun I’m no John Force…yet)
 

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i always thought h pipes were "simpler" because of angles... i have h setup on my car n seems to do fine

but seeing how your headers angle in towards eachother x pipes might be more efficient not sure on placement
 
I've been told that "X" flows better than "H" mainly due to the smoother transitions and such that the exhaust has to move through.

I was also told (when I got my X-pipe installed on my off-topic truck) that an "H" pipe has to be put at the same distance back from the header collector on both sides. "X" pretty much does that all by itself.

My exhaust guy sprayed some paint on my headpipes from the collector to the muffs. We then ran the engine for a few minutes, and he installed the "X" pipe at the point where the paint burned of the pipes the most. He said thats the optimal location of the crossover pipe, and every installation is different.
 
65Val I heard that too about finding the "hot spot". A guy told me they use those heattemp IR guns to find the hot spot as well. I agree with you 110% that an "X" pipe would flow best. No doubt about it. If I was running full out competition that would be the way to go but, I'm trying to find a economically acceptable middle ground. Ya the headers are at different angles but, those TTI are installed by the TTI instructions. The angle are no big deal and I can work with that. I was originally thinking of buying a pre-build 3" "X" pipe and working it into my system. The look very nice.
Another question, I’m not fond of welding galvanized exhaust pipe. Who is? I wire wheel off as much as I can near the weld points. But, as you know it does not take long for the weld and heated area to rust. Do you know of a spray or galvanic coating that can be applied after welding?
 
I have always been told X pipes are better then H dont know why but thats what I have always been told


welcome for the help hahaha
 
Brad426 said:
65Val I heard that too about finding the "hot spot". A guy told me they use those heattemp IR guns to find the hot spot as well. I agree with you 110% that an "X" pipe would flow best. No doubt about it. If I was running full out competition that would be the way to go but, I'm trying to find a economically acceptable middle ground.
Click to expand...

Brad....My F*rd truck is definitely not full competition (it just hauls my camper and pulls the car trailer), but , the way my exhaust was routed, the X pipe was the easiest install, so we went that way.
 
I have a "H" pipe & I'll tell you, I'm not a fan. I'm starting to believe they are a complete waste of cash & time. Makes it tougher to work on the tranny or remove pipes, takes away some of the "crispness" of the motor & I'm willing to be it didn't add any hp.

I don't know. If you want it for looks, then go for it, otherwise keep em straight, imo.
 
I would have to see on a dyno witch is better but I do know the H pipe took the rumble out of the inside off the car.witch was pretty annoying at times..and if it were me I would put it behind the crossmember 6inch.or so.but that's my opinion............Artie
 
..........I always get 1 or the other installed, but mostly the H 4 simplicity.......it mellows the exhaust tone and takes the rap out of the bottle mufflers...................kim............
 
they say the X-pipe scavenges better and tones down the drone better...

mine had to go back a litte farther to clear the driveshaft loop..


exhaust%20005.jpg
 
dyno of a rustang 302, in this chart sometimes the "H" pipe puts out more hp/tq, and then the "X" has more hp/tq higher up in the rpm, would be nice to see what NO h or x would be, haven't found one of those comparisons yet, I have a "H" pipe on my stroker.
 

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My muffler guy didn't do the heat thing cause I brought the car down with the headers and collector extension already on and the Jegs X pipe kit in pieces. he put the X a little after the frame member kinda like the TTI premade X pipe setup. We left some room in a straight section before the flow 40's that are bacl by the axle and dump on the ground under it. I plan to put a set 0f 14" straight through resonators in that straight section to remove a little unwanted resonance that occurs right as the cam is waking up around 2200.

The car went 0.10 faster in the 1/8 after putting on the 3" X section and the mufflers. TTI claims 15 more HP with it.
 
The H-pipe is supposed to increase low end torque a bit. Wasn't Chrysler the first to start putting H-pipes on some cars in the 60s-70s? The location matters, the H-pipe should be close to the end of the header collector. I'm not sure about the X-pipe.
 
Larry Sheppard says the h or x should be about 13 inches behind the collectors and the diameter should be a bit smaller.
he claims this will provide no HP gain and is just to quieten the exhaust.
me..i wouldn't know.
 
412 Stroker said:
dyno of a rustang 302, in this chart sometimes the "H" pipe puts out more hp/tq, and then the "X" has more hp/tq higher up in the rpm, would be nice to see what NO h or x would be, haven't found one of those comparisons yet, I have a "H" pipe on my stroker.
Click to expand...

Looks like the "H" pipe comes out on top on that chart.
 
When I recently had the exhaust system replaced on my 383 Polara, my muffler guy said that the cross over pipes are most effective at top end when the exhaust is really flowing and that I would lose bottom end torque. He's a long time local racer who is now retired. Since my C-body is only a cruiser, I did not have him install a cross pipe.
 
I have been down this road so many times. This is a qestion that can be answered by yourself if you have any common sence. You have two masses that are being force through two pipes. What happens if you force them to cross paths?? Wouldn't it be better to let them flow in their straight line. The H does not interfere with flow it only equalizes back pressure.


Hot rod TV had a segment on the new GT 500 after market Exhaust. They found the H pipe was alot better on some engines. X pipes scavenge cyinders, This will create a neg pressure in the next cylinder to be fired on that bank. Thats a good thing, The problem is mopar and GM fire orders are not even fires, 1 , 8 4 , 3 , 6 , 5 7 , 2 . How can the x pipe work on this firing order. They seam to work at a mid range only on some fords. But not at low or high RPM's

Placement of the H is after the burn. When you buy race headers you are given instructions to put on 18 inches of painted pipe on each side . After making a pass you are instructed to leave at least back to the end of the burned off paint . To short of a collector robs torque. Your H should be placed after this length . To be sure if you don't want to do this proceedure. Keep the H at least 18 inches past the colector flange no closer.

My car and everything I installed including the exhaust was built for H.P. on the street not for nice or a conversation piece. Having a shop with my own equipment to make what ever I want I tried them all. My exhaust is 2 inch tubes going to 3 1/2 collector and a 3 1/2 Inch exhaust. My H is a 2 1/2 pipe connecting them after the burn. Only for equal pressure. I do have a full exhaust but the 3 1/2 pipes dump in front of the rear. I added a open flange to the turndowns. I then conected the tailpipes and tips so there is some exhaust coming out the back. When you stand behind the car it sounds like it is all coming throough the tailpipes. 428 SB .

On one of my other dusters I am restoring now . I am going to put factory 70 manifolds with 2 1/2 pipes going to 2 1/4 tail pipes and tips . I will be adding an H , As all Track pack B-bodies came with an H pipe. Adding an H to a 383 car was a big difference in sound and performance Which I did to all my cars in the past. Take any car or exhaust you have and just add that H and hear and feel the difference. Just had a new Crown Vic Police intercepter on the lift Came with an H pipe..

There will be alot on this site that swear by x pipes . They have one ,They paid alot for it, And they look cool on a car. I just see no need to force my duals through a single and then back to duals. The early Cammaros and Novas did this with there mUfflers. And what did everyone do with them? Metal pile.

Mines not pretty but it works and it was cheap.
 

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Oldmanmopar said:
I have been down this road so many times. This is a qestion that can be answered by yourself if you have any common sence. You have two masses that are being force through two pipes. What happens if you force them to cross paths?? Wouldn't it be better to let them flow in their straight line. The H does not interfere with flow it only equalizes back pressure.


Hot rod TV had a segment on the new GT 500 after market Exhaust. They found the H pipe was alot better on some engines. X pipes scavenge cyinders, This will create a neg pressure in the next cylinder to be fired on that bank. Thats a good thing, The problem is mopar and GM fire orders are not even fires, 1 , 8 4 , 3 , 6 , 5 7 , 2 . How can the x pipe work on this firing order. They seam to work at a mid range only on some fords. But not at low or high RPM's

Placement of the H is after the burn. When you buy race headers you are given instructions to put on 18 inches of painted pipe on each side . After making a pass you are instructed to leave at least back to the end of the burned off paint . To short of a collector robs torque. Your H should be placed after this length . To be sure if you don't want to do this proceedure. Keep the H at least 18 inches past the colector flange no closer.

My car and everything I installed including the exhaust was built for H.P. on the street not for nice or a conversation piece. Having a shop with my own equipment to make what ever I want I tried them all. My exhaust is 2 inch tubes going to 3 1/2 collector and a 3 1/2 Inch exhaust. My H is a 2 1/2 pipe connecting them after the burn. Only for equal pressure. I do have a full exhaust but the 3 1/2 pipes dump in front of the rear. I added a open flange to the turndowns. I then conected the tailpipes and tips so there is some exhaust coming out the back. When you stand behind the car it sounds like it is all coming throough the tailpipes. 428 SB .

On one of my other dusters I am restoring now . I am going to put factory 70 manifolds with 2 1/2 pipes going to 2 1/4 tail pipes and tips . I will be adding an H , As all Track pack B-bodies came with an H pipe. Adding an H to a 383 car was a big difference in sound and performance Which I did to all my cars in the past. Take any car or exhaust you have and just add that H and hear and feel the difference. Just had a new Crown Vic Police intercepter on the lift Came with an H pipe
Click to expand...

Thanks, that is good info and I really like this idea, alot! This the beauty of this forum, availability of knowledge, prior to wasting time and money. :cheers: Thanks again.
 
My "H" pipe setup from tti

Full 2-1/2" from manifolds to rear
 

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Thanks for the writeup OldMan Mopar. I was wondering how that strange setup you have on the Duster sounded. Like I posted already my car went a lot quicker with the X and mufflers. It sounds pretty good from inside but could be better as I have no insulation or carpet or back seats yet. Will try 14" resonators (glasspacks) between the X and the flows and see if the car gets any quieter and if they impact the times besides adding weight.

Looking at the X piece It looked like the area per pulse gets bigger as the gasses can go through both mufflers by some jumping tracks on the X and going through the otherside.

BTW, the X kit cost $100 at Jegs and including providing the necessary extra parts including 3" turndowns my install was $80. So yeah it cost some but not that much - lots cheaper than TTI's setup which we kind of copied.

Judging from the soot color you have that 426 dialed in pretty well.
 
X vs.H

The X pipe flows better than the H because there is no 90 degree bend that the flow has to go around, just a gentle transition.
 
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