Hard block recommendations

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MOPARMAGA

MOPARMAGA

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Anyone running hard block?
What brand do you recommend?
Im thinking that I might want to do this on my 400 block at the power level my engine might be making soon.
What id like to do is pour the **** in and torque plate it.
Thanks.
Oh and how much would I need to fill my block?
 
I have a few small blocks with them poured in use.I use hard blok brand and I buy the 28lb bucket.
I've used torque plates also and have even used a head to torque it down once I poured one side.Just take your time leveling the block front to back and side to side.
 
10-4 on the H&H Hard Block just as MHEAD suggests. Would make slightly on the 'soupy' side to let it flow more evenly. Have done over 50 blocks in my career with good results on all!
 
MHEAD said:
I have a few small blocks with them poured in use.I use hard blok brand and I buy the 28lb bucket.
I've used torque plates also and have even used a head to torque it down once I poured one side.Just take your time leveling the block front to back and side to side.
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Thank you .
 
I did a little research myself.
Darin Morgan said embeco 885 filler.
It seems to have the same stuff as the hard blok
 
oldkimmer said:
It has to be done and cured b4 u machine the bores. Kim
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Unfortunately, I don't have that option.
I will be pouring it into my assembled short block with gaskets & torque plate.
I will disassemble it after it cured then take it to work and hone it.
i feel confident it will work out just fine.
 
MOPARMAGA said:
Unfortunately, I don't have that option.
I will be pouring it into my assembled short block with gaskets & torque plate.
I will disassemble it after it cured then take it to work and hone it.
i feel confident it will work out just fine.
Click to expand...
It wouldn't be the first time someone did it bassackwards. :D
 
was block done with a deck plate before? if not, it will pull bores out of round by about 4 to 5 thousand. i've always bored and honed after grouting block. then its straight and true. just food for thought.
 
perfacar said:
was block done with a deck plate before? if not, it will pull bores out of round by about 4 to 5 thousand. i've always bored and honed after grouting block. then its straight and true. just food for thought.
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I was done with a deck plate originally. Thanks , yes I plan to hone it afterwards.
 
perfacar said:
was block done with a deck plate before? if not, it will pull bores out of round by about 4 to 5 thousand. i've always bored and honed after grouting block. then its straight and true. just food for thought.
Click to expand...
Just the difference between a steel shim and a Felpro composite is 2-3 thousandths on a block plate honed with one gasket or the other.
 
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Not exactly related to your question, but maybe food for thought....
I have heard of hard blocked engines that run cooler....
Less coolant to remove heat, but they run cooler?
It may be because with less coolant, the coolant returns more quickly to the rad for heat removal. [ Spinning the w/pump faster ]
 
Bewy said:
Not exactly related to your question, but maybe food for thought....
I have heard of hard blocked engines that run cooler....
Less coolant to remove heat, but they run cooler?
It may be because with less coolant, the coolant returns more quickly to the rad for heat removal. [ Spinning the w/pump faster ]
Click to expand...
I have read that myself, but also read higher oil temps. Thanks for posting, I guess I'll find out soon enough.
 
When using whatever fill you wish, make sure you have a small semi-flexible rod to massage the air bubbles out as you fill it. Also, my suggestion is to wait at least a minimum of 4 days before turning the block t do the other side. When I did mine, I used torque plates, I had one and borrowed another. Once I was through, I kept he block on the stand and rolled it in and out of the shop the let mother nature help with the curing process. It takes at least two weeks total for the stuff to completely cure. After the two weeks, I hauled it to my machinist and let him do his voodoo. Sane
 
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