has anybody done this yet

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trudysduster

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I am sure someone has. I have an issue with my exhaust manifold on the driver side just barely rubbing the steering column since I installed the Schumacher mounts. The engine has been set back 1 " and that has caused a slight problem. I was going to go back and raise the tailshaft and shim it BUT, since I had to move the exhaust it is real close to the x member. I was thinking of pulling the steering column out and cutting the shaft where it is wider at the manifold area and running the smaller rod up past the end of the manifold and then welding it back together. That would solve my problem and be the easiest. I can post some pics tomorrow but I just thought to do this tonight. let me know who and where I can read up on this. Thanks,Bill
 
This would be a heck of a lot of work but I've thought about it. As long as it's not a column shift, you could shorten the column jacket, custom make a support bushing "up there" under the dash at the bottom of where you cut off the column jacket, ..............and run a U joint on a new shaft from under the dash.......out through the floor plate. You could "tweek" the column slightly to point the bottom shaft outboard a slight amount, then run the second shaft down and through a second bushing at the floor plate. You might have to oblong the holes and move it, or maybe just mount your bushing plate offset. You could keep the factory joint or use something else.

This came to me, LOL when I was dreaming of a hemi swap......never gonna happen
 
The outer sleeves can be cut off and the bearing moved up UNLESS it's a '67 column which has a tapered inner sleeve. I've had a custom bushing made in the past to solve this issue.
 
its not a 67. its a 76. I am planning to do it in a couple of weeks. it seems like less work than the other alternatives I have to get the clearances I need.
 
Sorry to hijack your thread ...but are you saying the shumacker adaptor mounts move the engine back an inch? and is this the 73 up /6 K to small block? thanks.
 
Shim it with shims from Schumacher?
 
mod5v, '73 & Up A,B,C,F,M,J-Body V8 to B/RB Conversion kit set my engine back 1 ".
 
Rob, I am not sure I can shim it at all. if I shim it I may be hitting the bottom of the tranny x member with exhaust pipes. I am very tight. I may be able to heat the pipes and bend them down enough and dip them under the x member but I think it would be easier to reconstruct the steering column. not sure which way I am going to go yet. thinking process right now.
 
I cut the steering shaft then used DOM thick walled tubing to lengthen mine works like a champ. I also drilled four holes on each end of the DOM so I could weld the holes to the shaft as well as the ends of the DOM to the shaft just for extr protection.
 
I believe different columns have different length jackets. I had the same problem on my 67, and I believe I found a 69 Column with a shorter jacket. Solved the problem for me.
 
here is a pic of what I am dealing with. The back bolt looks like it is gone but it has a sleeve in there and I backed the outer bolt out so it clears the shaft. I think if I go with a smaller diameter DOM tubing like FL5 said it should work. It is so close I think the paint scrapes when I turn the wheel. any suggestions is appreciated.
 

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here is a pic of what I am dealing with. The back bolt looks like it is gone but it has a sleeve in there and I backed the outer bolt out so it clears the shaft. I think if I go with a smaller diameter DOM tubing like FL5 said it should work. It is so close I think the paint scrapes when I turn the wheel. any suggestions is appreciated.

Just in case....have you loosened the column at the fire wall and moved it as far as possible away from the manifold. The factory always left some play at the fire wall. You can even loosen the bolts under the dash to help get the column to move after you loosen the fire wall bolts/screws.
I would go as far as slotting the holes in the column support clamp (under the dash) to let the steering column move just another 1/16".
Treblig
 
never thought of that Treblig. thanks. I put it back up on jackstands tonight. going to crawl under there in the morning and see if I can loosen the tranny mounts and slide the tailshaft over some. I thing my boys locked it down before we realized it was tht tight. maybe all these things will get me there. I am still looking at cutting the column shaft and putting a DOM shaft in and get some room. thanks for the ideas. Bill
 
well I started this thread so I guess I will finish it up with the results. I bought a length of 3/4" solid steel rod. cut the shaft and replaced the bigger part with the rod. just my luck that the bigger shaft had a 3/4 " opening and it slid right up in there. I measured the distance from the firewall to the exhaust manifold and the distance across the manifold where it was close and I ran the 3/4" rod that distance. Then I attached the coupler end and welded it all up. I drilled a couple of holes down into the shaft on top and bottom and into the rod and then welded up the holes. This is going to get me off the manifold about 1/4 ". enough to do the job. it is ready to go back in the car.
 

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well I started this thread so I guess I will finish it up with the results. I bought a length of 3/4" solid steel rod. cut the shaft and replaced the bigger part with the rod. just my luck that the bigger shaft had a 3/4 " opening and it slid right up in there. I measured the distance from the firewall to the exhaust manifold and the distance across the manifold where it was close and I ran the 3/4" rod that distance. Then I attached the coupler end and welded it all up. I drilled a couple of holes down into the shaft on top and bottom and into the rod and then welded up the holes. This is going to get me off the manifold about 1/4 ". enough to do the job. it is ready to go back in the car.

RMS makes a bushing kit to do this too.
 
almost bought the bushing from them but the shaft allowed the 3/4" rod to slide inside, I saved $12 and used what I had.
 
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