Has anybody had this problem

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WARLOCKII

WARLOCKII

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We are installing a 383/727 in our 72 Swinger using the Schumaker mounts. We have a 187 oil pan, the issue is the center link hits the oil pan instead of moving through the cut out area. It's like the engine needs to move back about an inch. The mounts are installed according to the directions and I don't see any way to move anything back. Any thoughts? I can try and post pictures if needed.:banghead:
 
The trans mount lines up, trans is centered in the tunnel and the engine is level. Are there different idler arms and pitman arms required for the swap??
 
Here 's one fix

IMGP1132.jpg
 
WARLOCKII said:
We are installing a 383/727 in our 72 Swinger using the Schumaker mounts. We have a 187 oil pan, the issue is the center link hits the oil pan instead of moving through the cut out area. It's like the engine needs to move back about an inch. The mounts are installed according to the directions and I don't see any way to move anything back. Any thoughts? I can try and post pictures if needed.:banghead:
Click to expand...
I'm in the process of doing a 440 into a 70 Duster with the Shumacher convertion mounts. I found the exact same problem. I forget the number on the stock pan but it is out of a 74 C body (Imperial). I wound up going with a Milodon pan I had. The milodon looks like the same one in Womanators photo. Insted of notching it like Womanators, I simply heated the area a little with a Mapp gas torch and gave it a little work with a ball peen hammer. The rail did not distort at all and it still clears the Milodon windage tray fine. It now clears the center link no problem. One other thing I did was to cut a small notch into the K frame on the passenger side to make removing and installing the engine with the trans bolted on easy. Without the notch the sump would interfere with the K frame and make the intall more difficult. You could probly heat and dent the stock pan also.
 
I had the issue where the idler contacted the pan as it swung into the notch (circled area in pic). Just had to clearance the pan a little. Don't know if the '73 and up linkage has any better clearance in that area but it's clear that the '67-72/187 pan combo is not perfect.

When I put the shortblock together for my blower with another 187 pan I just metal-worked that corner in advance knowing it would need it.
 

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It's common with the early centerlink to have to make more room. I'd have to look at my son's Dart to see how close we are, but I seem to recall flattening that area a little.
 
Thanks for all of the help, tomorrow I break out the BFH and make some adjustments to the corner of the oil pan. I wish I would have known this earlier, I would have used the beat up oil pan in the shed.
 
i had the same problem with my 440 dart all u have to dimple the oil pan about 1 inch where it is hitting at, with a rubber mallet. i form a notch with mine
 
i thought i heard somewhere that you can use a 6 cylinder cenrter link and it has the room to clear.like an inch difference can anybody verify this???
 
Hi Warlock, I am doing this right now.I have a 1968 440 Dart.I am using the 187 pan and was having the same problem.As said earlier the front end components should be from a 73 and up A body V8 application, thats including the center link. You would need a center link,idler arm and a pitman arm.SOOOOO..After ordering the parts I found that my steering box pitman arm shaft was to small.Now I am assuming I have to get a 73 and up power steering box,but I think this will work. I will keep you posted
 
paul smart said:
i thought i heard somewhere that you can use a 6 cylinder cenrter link and it has the room to clear.like an inch difference can anybody verify this???
Click to expand...

Paul, there is no such thing as a six cyl center link for the wider A-bodies (67-76).
 
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