has anybody used these frame rails?

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abdywgn

abdywgn

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Falcon front rails


NEW ’67-’74 A-BODY MOPAR
Long “parallel” FRONT
Frame Rails
2×3……$464.95 pair
**
“Extra long” to go back to
the rear rails or suspension
clip!
these are from Auto Weld Chassis. I realize they are not a restoration frame rail replacement, but are the bends close to a factory A-body? Could you weld the UCA/shock mounts to them . Just thinking and asking out loud if any body has any experience with them. Thanks!
 
I like them a lot I would love to make a full frame car like that
 
abdywgn said:
Falcon front rails


NEW ’67-’74 A-BODY MOPAR
Long “parallel” FRONT
Frame Rails
2×3……$464.95 pair
**
“Extra long” to go back to
the rear rails or suspension
clip!
these are from Auto Weld Chassis. I realize they are not a restoration frame rail replacement, but are the bends close to a factory A-body? Could you weld the UCA/shock mounts to them . Just thinking and asking out loud if any body has any experience with them. Thanks!
Click to expand...



Here's a set of originals for comparison.


1725571640332.png
 
abdywgn said:
Falcon front rails


NEW ’67-’74 A-BODY MOPAR
Long “parallel” FRONT
Frame Rails
2×3……$464.95 pair
**
“Extra long” to go back to
the rear rails or suspension
clip!
these are from Auto Weld Chassis. I realize they are not a restoration frame rail replacement, but are the bends close to a factory A-body? Could you weld the UCA/shock mounts to them . Just thinking and asking out loud if any body has any experience with them. Thanks!
Click to expand...
For what? Are you building a race car?
 
When I bought my '68 the original builder had them installed from the rear crossmember forward. Through the floor (minimally) at the rear. It had the factory K member mounts and the factory upper control arm/shock mounts welded in. It held a complete factory k-member. From experience: note that the K will sit about 1" higher into the car (the factory rails are not 3") with a stock top of the rail from the floor measurement (required if your using the factory radiator support and inner fenders). I had to have 1" spacers fabbed to lower the K from the frame, leaving the rails at stock height (top of the rail) reduced the engine tunnel clearance.
 
Installing a factory rail is much less complicated then just a square tube rail. Attaching all the upper control arm pieces to the rail will take a lot of measuring. If you don't have the equipment to do it correctly you will never get the front suspension aligned . How would you measure to install everything on a bare rail .

Find factory rails!
 
abdywgn said:
reasoning for that would be? not saying right or wrong, just curious.
Click to expand...
To move the rear springs inward to allow for wider wheel tubes and tires and also tie in to the front rails

5E15BD0E-A8F5-4E6C-A5A5-544E49C89901.jpeg


3285A395-0703-4918-923C-B139D17A6E40.jpeg


0A462C57-DA76-4314-B856-F9FED38192D8.jpeg
 
Oldmanmopar said:
Installing a factory rail is much less complicated then just a square tube rail. Attaching all the upper control arm pieces to the rail will take a lot of measuring. If you don't have the equipment to do it correctly you will never get the front suspension aligned . How would you measure to install everything on a bare rail .

Find factory rails!
Click to expand...
while I don't disagree with the amount of effort and precision it would take to mount the UCA/shock mounts and k-frame to the rails, street rodders do it with Mustang II pieces to stock frames or aftermarket/homemade. Could be done, just need to measure 5 or 6 times before welding. Maybe tack weld, mount suspension/steering components and take to a body shop to check alignment? then again, guys build "roundy-round" cars in their garages...maybe I'll hafta bug Ron, see if he's up for a project. Hmmm. Thanks for the input and thinking material.
 
68cuda408 said:
When I bought my '68 the original builder had them installed from the rear crossmember forward. Through the floor (minimally) at the rear. It had the factory K member mounts and the factory upper control arm/shock mounts welded in. It held a complete factory k-member. From experience: note that the K will sit about 1" higher into the car (the factory rails are not 3") with a stock top of the rail from the floor measurement (required if your using the factory radiator support and inner fenders). I had to have 1" spacers fabbed to lower the K from the frame, leaving the rails at stock height (top of the rail) reduced the engine tunnel clearance.
Click to expand...
were torsion bars used or coil-overs put in? if the spacers lowered the k-frame, to I'm guessing where it would be with the factory rails, was there clearance problems? or was it before spacers were put in? Thanks for all the insight!
 
DartGT55 said:
To move the rear springs inward to allow for wider wheel tubes and tires and also tie in to the front rails

View attachment 1716299818

View attachment 1716299819

View attachment 1716299820
Click to expand...
yes, that would tie everything together but I don't think the factory rails would go straight back to the frame mounted leaf spring box, I thought they had to be at a bit of an angle. but, yes, that is the general idea for using them...along with putting an A-body front suspension in a car that was not built that way. just my way of making an A-body wagon.
 
using factory rails makes it much easier to buy parts built for them, That is what we did. Also Using them will also take from the integrity of the unibody structure and a cage should be added

41.JPG


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35.JPG


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100_0061.JPG


100_0016 (3).JPG
 
abdywgn said:
yes, that would tie everything together but I don't think the factory rails would go straight back to the frame mounted leaf spring box, I thought they had to be at a bit of an angle. but, yes, that is the general idea for using them...along with putting an A-body front suspension in a car that was not built that way. just my way of making an A-body wagon.
Click to expand...
 
abdywgn said:
yes, that would tie everything together but I don't think the factory rails would go straight back to the frame mounted leaf spring box, I thought they had to be at a bit of an angle. but, yes, that is the general idea for using them...along with putting an A-body front suspension in a car that was not built that way. just my way of making an A-body wagon.
Click to expand...

C75ED8B6-A5FD-48A5-B7C2-FAAF69E3469D.jpeg


9485BCEE-C2EA-47C3-8C0E-E7576456BF73.jpeg
 
Last edited:
abdywgn said:
were torsion bars used or coil-overs put in? if the spacers lowered the k-frame, to I'm guessing where it would be with the factory rails, was there clearance problems? or was it before spacers were put in? Thanks for all the insight!
Click to expand...
I bought it disassembled with t-bars. I reassembled it to check fitment. It was originally built in the 70's. It had no inner fenders or support. I welded in nose bars with the top of the frame rails measured to a stock a body. Then I found out the bell housing wouldn't slide into the tunnel. I had the spacers made to lower the installed height of the k to compensate.
 
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