Has Anyone Installed Electric Door Locks?

-
crashcaptn

crashcaptn

1965 Dodge Dart GT
Joined
Jan 15, 2007
Messages
637
Reaction score
95
Location
San Diego, CA
Hey all

Just curious - i've been thinking of picking up one of these cheap kits that'll put electric door locks into my 65 Dart. Has anyone attempted this yet?

I found one kit from A1 Electric (some random Google search hit, pictured below) and it seems like it could be pretty awesome to have.

Just curious if anyone has any experience with it. Thanks!

w01f-2101.jpg
 
crashcaptn said:
Do you have any pictures of the install? Is there enough room for the actuators?
Click to expand...

I installed those actuators in my Dart. Theres no worry on room, the actuators are maybe 4" long and 1" diameter. They fit in a lot of spots in the doors. I recently got rid of mine and switched to a door popper system to remove the door handles, which those fit fine too, even being 2" in diameter, they fit below the window fully rolled down.
 
I am in the process of installing an alarm and doorlocks on my 64 convertible Dart. The actuators are a bit tricky to install because those cars have less openings to work on the inside of the doors than the recent cars. I ended up drilling holes in the lower corner of the door to bolt the actuators. The rod then go behind the glass rail up to the lock rod. Takes a lot of patience but it works. Then I had to drill holes in close to the hinge so I can bring wires to the inside of the car. Will probably install the unit behind the cardboard glovebox.
 
bozvaliant said:
Yes, I have done them on my last 2 A bodies. I even installed an electric trunk release. Electric windows in the future.
Click to expand...
I was to install an electric trunk release but just noticed the flat rod from the lock cylinder to the mechanism can't be turned if there is no key in. And there is no other way to release the mechanism so I'm in a dead end with this...
 
I also installed electric door locks (keyless entry) and they have been on there for more than a year and still work perfect.
I also had to drill for the wires, and used short sections of clear plastic hose sealed to the door at one end and the body at the other.
The actuators got installed parallel with the release rod between the door inner shell and the glass.
I like the fact that I can push down the drivers door lock and the passenger side also locks, or unlocks along with it.
 
Luc said:
I was to install an electric trunk release but just noticed the flat rod from the lock cylinder to the mechanism can't be turned if there is no key in. And there is no other way to release the mechanism so I'm in a dead end with this...
Click to expand...
Can you use a Mopar remote trunk release and energize it through a relay from the key fob module? I don't know much about how they work but that's what a local company does when they install a alarm/remote start unit. There's usually buttons on the fob and a signal from the module that can energize about anything.
 
Luc said:
I was to install an electric trunk release but just noticed the flat rod from the lock cylinder to the mechanism can't be turned if there is no key in. And there is no other way to release the mechanism so I'm in a dead end with this...
Click to expand...


I got a 1985 dodge ("diplomat I think) electric trunk piece and just bolted it on the same location as my 66 was. ran a wire to the power with a switch and was done! also used original power window motors and door lock poppers from a dodge van. next I'll get the cheapy door lock/electric window kit for the remote function and graft it into the wiring of the original motors and popers
 
toolmanmike said:
Can you use a Mopar remote trunk release and energize it through a relay from the key fob module? I don't know much about how they work but that's what a local company does when they install a alarm/remote start unit. There's usually buttons on the fob and a signal from the module that can energize about anything.
Click to expand...
The modules usually have a bunch of wires hanging off that you don't use, the one I had contained three other circuits you could use to do whatever. It matters if the unit that pops the trunk is a 2 lead unit, a positive trigger, or negative trigger, because the unit will usually only do a 2 lead on a lock/unlock.
 
Thanks all - it's absolutely a mod i'll be doing in the near future and wanted to find out if anyone experienced any issues or believed it wasnt a project worth their time. About the trunk stuff - I also found an 80's Mopar electric trunk release (on ebay) that comes with wiring and the button, so i'll be installing that shortly.
 
crashcaptn said:
Thanks all - it's absolutely a mod i'll be doing in the near future and wanted to find out if anyone experienced any issues or believed it wasnt a project worth their time. About the trunk stuff - I also found an 80's Mopar electric trunk release (on ebay) that comes with wiring and the button, so i'll be installing that shortly.
Click to expand...

that should be an easy upgrade. If you have a couple of extra window regulators and about 30 minutes at a salvage yard you can usually score a couple good little motors for you electric windows and adapt the spare regulators to motorized, here was mine\
1st take old regulator out and gut the crank handle by drilling out the rivets. open up the hole so that the motor will fit into the regulator and mesh with the gears. make 3 bolt hole C and tack it to the regulator for a motor mount
DSCF3538.JPG


there is the hole so it'll mesh with the gears.
DSCF3539.JPG


sheet metal C bracket with hole to mount motor bolted on and tacked to the regulator for mesh. you can make it pretty later if you'd like.
DSCF3541.JPG


you can see the C bracket between the motor and the regulator. this one had to be undone and the bottom end of the motor had to be moved a lot closer to the regulator.
DSCF3543.JPG



here it is moved closer so I could get enough adjustment on the glass.

DSCF3544.jpg


C sheet metal bracket and bolted to the motor. WORKS great. (and I'm cheap too!)I have $30 in 4 motors and 17.00 in 2 new(to me) regulators. I have some extra convertible rears.
the rear ones are done with a lot more difficulty and extra sheet metal cutting, but they do work too.
DSCF3546.JPG
 
I don't think Ma Mopar changed the gear ratio on window regulators for ever. A friend modded some later model Mopar motors to 38 Dodge regulators just like you did. Easy!
 
TrailBeast said:
I also installed electric door locks (keyless entry) and they have been on there for more than a year and still work perfect.
I also had to drill for the wires, and used short sections of clear plastic hose sealed to the door at one end and the body at the other.
The actuators got installed parallel with the release rod between the door inner shell and the glass.
I like the fact that I can push down the drivers door lock and the passenger side also locks, or unlocks along with it.
Click to expand...
I bought the kit you recommended. ...I have yet to install them....after it's running again!
Nice looking kit and can't beat the price!

Jeff
 
MrJLR said:
I bought the kit you recommended. ...I have yet to install them....after it's running again!
Nice looking kit and can't beat the price!

Jeff
Click to expand...

Works great, and it's nice when you forgot to lock your car it can be done from inside the house.
I think so far the farthest away I have been was about 150 feet and it still worked fine.
I did extend the little antenna wire up the side of the windshield pillar cover when I installed it just to give it every chance to work from farther distances.
One day sitting in a park eating lunch with the Wife at a picnic table there were some people walking around the car looking inside (just looking) and I locked it with the remote, and they all kind of jumped a little and looked around to see who did it.
They didn't know who, but they knew someone was close enough to do it. :D
(kind of a behave yourself warning) LOL
 
Last edited:
MrJLR said:
I bought the kit you recommended. ...I have yet to install them....after it's running again!
Nice looking kit and can't beat the price!

Jeff
Click to expand...
Oh thats good news - can you please post when you do install it how it went and locations and such? I'm in your same shoes - i'll finish my engine rebuild not this weekend but next.. THEN i'll work on stuff like this.. but first, getting it running!
 
TrailBeast said:
Works great, and it's nice when you forgot to lock your car it can be done from inside the house.
I think so far the farthest away I have been was about 150 feet and it still worked fine.
I did extend the little antenna wire up the side of the windshield pillar cover when I installed it just to give it every chance to work from farther distances.
One day sitting in a park eating lunch with the Wife at a picnic table there were some people walking around the car looking inside (just looking) and I locked it with the remote, and they all kind of jumped a little and looked around to see who did it.
They didn't know who, but they knew someone was close enough to do it. :D
(kind of a behave yourself warning) LOL
Click to expand...
Thats a great idea - I'll be doing exactly that
 
toolmanmike said:
Can you use a Mopar remote trunk release and energize it through a relay from the key fob module? I don't know much about how they work but that's what a local company does when they install a alarm/remote start unit. There's usually buttons on the fob and a signal from the module that can energize about anything.
Click to expand...

I think wouldn't be possible, since there is no additional lever in the lock that could be pulled to unlock. Universal kits are made for 90+ cars, and from around those years, laws required the latch to have a way to open it from the inside. But like 66Dvert suggested, I will try to find a 198x latch that would be compatible but already has the solenoid built-in.
 
crashcaptn said:
thats really awesome work - id love to do this to mine
Click to expand...

the fronts are easy as pie, but stuffing the motors in the rear of the 66 convertible was a plain nightmare. I had to cut a hole in the inner sheet metal and mount the motors facing the outside of the car in order to get them to fit and work. yes a door panel will cover the hole but it was a bit scary cutting the metal "after I had painted the car!" and rewiring every thing to run the correct way. took another 2 weeks to clean the grease and grime off the car and IU till had to retough up the paint. %$#$%&^#&

DSCF3674.JPG

then of all things I had to re-clock the motors in order to get full adjustment so the windows would fit together and meet the frame. , I still have not made the special panels and new side panels for the car yet but they should look pretty good since I'll be vacuforming them without and window crank holes.
 
Last edited:
Just remember. You said it. Cheap.

Over and out.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top