Head Bolts for Aluminum Heads

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Detroit Iron

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I've got a 360 and installing Edelbrock heads. The Edelbrock instructions say to use their head bolts, or use washers with any other bolts.

My question: Can I use stock head bolts (except for position #5) as long as I use hardened washers with them? Is that what the instructions are alluding to?
 
https://edelbrock-instructions-v1.s3.amazonaws.com/edelbrock/60779.pdf

The instructions,

HEAD BOLTS or STUDS: High quality head studs or headbolts with hardened washers must be used to preventgalling of the aluminum bolt bosses. Edelbrock Head Bolt Kit#8555 includes two longer-than-stock bolts which must beused with these cylinder heads. If you use any other headbolts, you must use the two head bolts and washers suppliedwith these heads in position #5 in Fig. 1. This position willnot accept stock length head bolts

ARP bolts or studs are the best way to go in my opinion.
Yeah I get that. My question is if I add the correct washer to each bolt, can I use the stock head bolts?
 
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Not sure if the place the bolts sit on are at the same height as stock heads. If you add a single hardened washer that is good. But if you stack washers to get to the correct height you open yourself up to bolts loosen up on you. (If I read your post correctly.)
 
I have stock head bolts with Pioneer washers on my Procomp (Speedmaster) heads.

I used 2 of the long bolts on each head.

I actually have more thread into the block than my son did with ARPs on Edelbrock heads.
 
Is this a budget reason? Time constraints? What static compression is the motor? What head gasket? To your question if you install the correct hardened washer and have enough thread engagement, sure, but if you have to buy the washers, why not new bolts or studs. Studs are probably overkill but I don’t like the very small heads on the ARP bolts.
 
I installed my first head studs on my slant.
I won't build another performance engine without them.
Cheap enough when you think about the cost of engine builds.
 
There is usually a reason a Mfr calls out something specific. My Trick flow heads have different specific head bolt made by ARP.
 
Just me, Never use critical torqued bolts over.
Why ? The fastener is probably the most imporatnt part needed to properly attain and maintain proper torwue for sealing. Why did you go with aluminum heads ? Cast iron are cheaper.
Like new racing tires and using the old valve stems.
 
You need to also make sure that whatever head bolt/stud you use in the holes where the valve train oil holes are, doesn't obstruct the oil flow to the rockers. If you look at the factory bolts that go in those holes, they are tapered to allow the oil coming from the block gets thru the head bolt passage and up to the rockers.
 
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