Head gasket woes

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I had a similar problem once.
I roughed up the decks, installed 1008s, and after torqueing them all to 95, I cranked it up to 105, still not heat-cycled, and loosened/retorqued each one in sequence. Arp bolts with ARP grease.
That solved it, even to 195psi.
 
Thank you. I’m at 4700’ and the air at the track went from 6200’-about 7000 by the last pass. I’m not sold on the arp head bolts.

Not having a true flat deck could very well be an issue BUT what jumped out at me was the “Hookie” inconsistency reported on torque loads on tightening. Run a thread shader to clear and clean the threads the bolts are going into and use the ARP lube all around the threads thinly but completely coated. It doesn’t have to be hooped and slathered on. The bolts should engage and evenly as well as smoothly torque down.
 
Hopefully you weren’t pulling threads when torquing.
That was 22 years ago.
Engine was freshened a total of 5 times, same way, and now has over 100,000 miles on it. Never had a gasket failure after that, and I reused the 1008s a few times. IMO, If you don't try stuff, you don't learn. Like making babies.

I learned that even tho the buy-in on the 1008s is high, they were, in the long-run, the cheapest gaskets I ever bought.
Also learned that 105ftlbs is a good number.
But I'm not telling my friends to try either of those.....

Some more things I learned, that were game-changers for me, were ;
1) that having 5 gears was good/8 was bad/6 might be OK.
2) that a starter gear deeper than 11/1 was not for me.
3) I really liked the sound of my 367 screaming thru dual 3 inchers at 7000/7200; it didn't matter to me that the power was peaking at 5200>5500. It's a streeter and 7000 in First-over is 66mph.
4) that darn near every off-the-shelf FTH street cam that you can find, will have an installed ICA that falls into a 10 degree window, of 58 to 68 degrees. So then, if you set your Scr right, then, whatever street-friendly cam that you install, you may be able to maintain the same or similar CCP, by playing with the gasket thicknesses. This is true for at least one camsize either way. The Second camsize will be hit or miss.
5) I didn't like a 292/292/108 cam with 3.55s and a 2.66 low 4-speed.
6) that closed-chamber/tight Q/Alloy heads will run gangbusters on 87E10 at 195psi, and that then, I didn't need the stinking 292 cam anymore.
7) that an extra 20 ftlbs at 2000rpm, was way more useful than 20 over the nose.
8) and so much more.
 
That was 22 years ago.
Engine was freshened a total of 5 times, same way, and now has over 100,000 miles on it. Never had a gasket failure after that, and I reused the 1008s a few times. IMO, If you don't try stuff, you don't learn. Like making babies.

I learned that even tho the buy-in on the 1008s is high, they were, in the long-run, the cheapest gaskets I ever bought.
Also learned that 105ftlbs is a good number.
But I'm not telling my friends to try either of those.....

Some more things I learned, that were game-changers for me, were ;
1) that having 5 gears was good/8 was bad/6 might be OK.
2) that a starter gear deeper than 11/1 was not for me.
3) I really liked the sound of my 367 screaming thru dual 3 inchers at 7000/7200; it didn't matter to me that the power was peaking at 5200>5500. It's a streeter and 7000 in First-over is 66mph.
4) that darn near every off-the-shelf FTH street cam that you can find, will have an installed ICA that falls into a 10 degree window, of 58 to 68 degrees. So then, if you set your Scr right, then, whatever street-friendly cam that you install, you may be able to maintain the same or similar CCP, by playing with the gasket thicknesses. This is true for at least one camsize either way. The Second camsize will be hit or miss.
5) I didn't like a 292/292/108 cam with 3.55s and a 2.66 low 4-speed.
6) that closed-chamber/tight Q/Alloy heads will run gangbusters on 87E10 at 195psi, and that then, I didn't need the stinking 292 cam anymore.
7) that an extra 20 ftlbs at 2000rpm, was way more useful than 20 over the nose.
8) and so much more.
1008's on the way. 3.91:1 with a 2.47 (833) 1st is the best combination I've run so far. Had higher expectations for the latest SFT ect. ect. Thanks for the feedback.
 
Once a month my Bro has the Snap-On crook check the torque wrenches.
I never liked Snap On guys either. I rolled my KRL series box into a trans shop and started working there, one day the Snap On dealer charged me "what's your name do you owe money...?" I said "excuse me pal I'm all paid up, now get out of my face..." greedy sum biches...
 
VACUUM ADVANCE IS NOT NEEDED, RUN 34 DEG TOTAL TIMING @ 4500 , USE 1008 FEL FRO HEAD GASKETS. RETORQUE HEADS AFTER 30 MIN RUN TIME. NOT SURE WHICH HEAD BOLTS YOUR USING, MOST ARP. BOLTS TORQUE TO 100-105 FT. LBS. IN SEQUENCE.
REMEMBER THE SMALL BLOCK MOPAR HAS ONLY 4 HEAD BOLTS.
IF YOUR BLOCK OR HEADS HAVE MORE THAN .060 OFF, EITHER ONE THEY WON'T SEAL.
JUST MY 2 CENTS.
 
Thank you. I’m at 4700’ and the air at the track went from 6200’-about 7000 by the last pass. I’m not sold on the arp head bolts.
Were you using the ARP thread lubricant? Did ARP suggest bring to torque two or three times before final torque? This burnished any rough spots off the threads, allowing smooth torque.
 
Hopefully you weren’t pulling threads when torquing.

Were you using the ARP thread lubricant? Did ARP suggest bring to torque two or three times before final torque? This burnished any rough spots off the threads, allowing smooth torque.
ARP lubricant was used and the heads were torqued in three steps. Threads are clean too.
 
FelPro 1008's do not need re-torqued after running. Never done it. Motor currently is 11.25:1. Pounding it since summer 2019.
 
is any of the head gasket hang in the bore or overlap into the combustion chamber?
I used to run the thin Mopar gaskets, worked fine on a .020 360, not so good on a .060 340 bore.
Both gaskets failed.
I use Cometic on everything I build now.
They will make custom thickness's for you.
 
is any of the head gasket hang in the bore or overlap into the combustion chamber?
I used to run the thin Mopar gaskets, worked fine on a .020 360, not so good on a .060 340 bore.
Both gaskets failed.
I use Cometic on everything I build now.
They will make custom thickness's for you.
This block is .030. Some 1008 on the way. I've got some cometic's for another build. Learning is getting more expensive...
 
OK, and the winner is Fk'd up torque wrench! Knocking off at 80# when set at 100#, thank you Matco tool truck for checking it out!
 
My guess was going to be torque wrench. I've run ARP bolts and studs for the last 15 years and never had problems. My current 408 runs in at a shade under 12 to 1 but my 416 will be closer to 13 to 1. I'm toying with the idea of o-ringing the block on the 416.
 
My guess was going to be torque wrench. I've run ARP bolts and studs for the last 15 years and never had problems. My current 408 runs in at a shade under 12 to 1 but my 416 will be closer to 13 to 1. I'm toying with the idea of o-ringing the block on the 416.
I'm glad you guys pointed the calibration out. As I was torqueing the heads on my 414 project they seemed to "tighten up" to fast from 65-95#.
 
I have two torque wrenches, one is a more modern click type and the other is a "trusty" old school beam type. If I question the click type wrench, I verify it with the beam wrench.
 
I was taught real early that bending steel (beam type wrench) does not go out of calibration. Steel strength just does not change. So I rarely use my click-type but have it...well...not sure why I have it!!

If I was not just a hobbyist and needed it to do faster/prod work, I'd for sure use click-type wrenches and get them calibrated often.

Glad the OP found the issue!
 
One of my few Snap-On tools is an electronic torque wrench. I use it and pull the batteries out till next time. It doesn’t get loaned out to anyone. Even buying it used it wasn’t a cheap investment.
 
One of my few Snap-On tools is an electronic torque wrench. I use it and pull the batteries out till next time. It doesn’t get loaned out to anyone. Even buying it used it wasn’t a cheap investment.
I only loan out the tools I never want to see again. I don't have many friends anymore lol
 
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