head stud removal

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rigger3006

rigger3006

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85 318 block, has head and crank studs, any tips or tricks on removing studs? was going to put short block back together, but just founf cam bearings are shot.
 
rigger3006 said:
85 318 block, has head and crank studs, any tips or tricks on removing studs? was going to put short block back together, but just founf cam bearings are shot.
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you can tighten two nuts on stud then loosen them by turning on the bottom nut. this will do the trick. same way installing, except, you use the top nut to tighten. simple
 
Studs should not be real tight' except for those welded in exhaut studs....i just had a long block roll over on its side and bend one so i hope it doesnt snap off trying to get it out.
 
They should also have a Alan key on the tip atleast the arp ones do, for install and removal.
 
no allan key tip, just going to toss head studs, ive done 3 head changes with them, i prefer the bolts especially when engine is still in car, as for for main studs they have no holes for windage tray, thus the po used mcgard wheel locks to secure the tray, dont know what he was thinking!
 
rigger3006 said:
no allan key tip, just going to toss head studs, ive done 3 head changes with them, i prefer the bolts especially when engine is still in car, as for for main studs they have no holes for windage tray, thus the po used mcgard wheel locks to secure the tray, dont know what he was thinking!
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Hmmmmm. So he torqued the main nuts down, slid the tray over the stud and used a lug nut to secure the tray?

That's getting 7 the hard way.
 
ya, two lug nuts . left the rest of tray floating, whatever works i guess, wouldnt have been my first choice!
 
Sounds like the perfect excuse to pitch them and get a set of aluminum heads
(Of course, those require different pistons, and while your in that far you might as well stroke it too)
 
gonna pitch the 318, got a 360 in car now and 2 360 short blocks in the garage waiting to be stroked, probably the '89 roller block, and yes aluminum heads!
 
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