header delima...

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AJ/FormS said:
I wish I lived next door; I wouldda trades a 12pack for those old ones.

Your solution might be same as mine; I run the later steering with the down firing studs. This involves just three parts; the pitman, the idler, and the centerlink. The tierods are all the same.
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from what year make model do those come from so i know where to look? are you saying like a 76 dart?
 
MopaR&D said:
Doug's is carried by most parts retailers like Summit and Jegs. AutoZone also sells them, every now and then they have 15% or 20% off sales for online purchases which you can use. I bought a set of ceramic-coated D453's for my '70 Duster back in November when they were having a sale.

Some have had issues with AutoZone being out of stock or shipping super late, I had no issues myself but one way around that is to have Summit price-match the sale price from AutoZone and just buy it through them instead.
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Hehehe....!
 
tinman2 said:
Back around 1980, my 24,000 mile Dart Sport had banged up and dented headers. I decided to replace them with some high dollar Hooker Competition Plus I think they were called. Had to dent at least one tube, maybe more, for steering linkage clearance. And, they still touched the steering, they rattled against the frame, and hung too low for speed bumps. I finally put stock manifolds on and was much happier.View attachment 1715890376
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Could you share backspace on those cool rear rally wheels? Looks perfect!!
 
Make DAMN SURE your mounts are good AND the engine is mounted in the k frame STRAIGHT. a lot of guys overlook that. Since the k frame has slots where the mounts install, you can mount the engine crooked and cause interference issues with headers, much the same as a bad mount. Even with bad mounts and a crooked installation, the best damned headers in the world might still fit like ****.
 
hotairgypsy said:
my car is a 73 so seems i already have the ones you mention
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Ok, so you have spool mounts. Kinda hard to mount that crooked, but the rubber in the mounts could still be bad.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Make DAMN SURE your mounts are good AND the engine is mounted in the k frame STRAIGHT. a lot of guys overlook that. Since the k frame has slots where the mounts install, you can mount the engine crooked and cause interference issues with headers, much the same as a bad mount. Even with bad mounts and a crooked installation, the best damned headers in the world might still fit like ****.
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one of the first discoveries when i looked under the hood...yesterday i looked at the bolts going thru the lower part of the motor mounts and both are missing the washers that go on the front side and but where not tighten down...i removed the nut on the pass side by hand...driver side if could have reached it i could have removed by hand also

20220315_182411.jpg
 
hotairgypsy said:
one of the first discoveries when i looked under the hood...yesterday i looked at the bolts going thru the lower part of the motor mounts and both are missing the washers that go on the front side and but where not tighten down...i removed the nut on the pass side by hand...driver side if could have reached it i could have removed by hand also

View attachment 1715891438
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Wow that's a mess. Definitely need to get that sorted out before installing new headers.
 
I agree with most of the above info. My '69 Dart when purchased, had tti headers and had the same tube hitting the steering linkage, almost had a slot cut through it.
I cured that problem with a full aftermarket front suspension, but, ran into it again with the oil pan hitting the rack and pinion. This is when I found out how much you can move the engine up and down with the 3 engine block/ bracket bolts. Loosen and lift engine, engine sits high. Loosen and let the engine hang low, engine sits lower. You would be surprised.
A lot of little things can add up to be one big thing.
 
hotairgypsy said:
one of the first discoveries when i looked under the hood...yesterday i looked at the bolts going thru the lower part of the motor mounts and both are missing the washers that go on the front side and but where not tighten down...i removed the nut on the pass side by hand...driver side if could have reached it i could have removed by hand also

View attachment 1715891438
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Good grief! So not only are the mounts toast, they aren't even in the saddles.
 
After you replace them, take note of your transmission line. It appears kinked and rubbing on the
header.
20220316_153826-jpg.jpg
 
Steel braided lines are not forever, on an airplane, they get replaced every 7-8. years.
 
My experience with D453 in my 70 Dart

Had to use washers to raise the drivers motor mount to clear the power steering

Steering coupler is hitting, will need a u-joint adapter

Will need high heat wrap on the PS box to preserve it

1.03 PST torsion bars required header dinging to clear everything

Clearance everywhere is very tight.

I have read that some went right in , some minor mods, and nightmare.

I could be wrong but I think that due to Ma Mopar's poor quality control back then, the clearances are all Over the place, thus causing header fittment problems

I have handled many small block headers in the last 45 yrs. D453's have the thickest head flange and thickest tubing that I have seen. They are worth every penny.
 
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Brooks James said:
due to Ma Mopar's poor quality control back then, the clearances are all Over the place,
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Years ago Tom Hoover the Hemi God Father made a statement.
"We were very precise on tolerances,usually + or - 2 inches "
Statement was made about Body,frame and K frame.
 
I fought cheap headers for 10 years with constant leaks and dents for clearance. Went to TTI and haven’t touched them since I installed them.
 
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