header install

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DusterBoy15

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ok haha i now know what you guys mean when you say buy TTI haha.
for those who have installed the drivers side header with power steering HOW THE HELL DID YOU DO IT??????? haha i lifter the motor high and the car high what do i do now??? do i take the trany mount offf???
 
They are tuff, what year is your car again? On my 64 dart I put them in one side at a time while I was lowering the motor into please. I think you need to get the engine really high, on some models they say install from the under neath, but man you really need a rack to do that.
 
in my 73 duster i pulled the engine after 15 hrs of wresteling with it i used hooker headers, took 4 .5 hrs to pull install and drive away.
 
You need to pull the center link and tire rod. They run through the driver side header.
 
ok we have everything that needs to be done to get the header in but it wont go in becasue theres no were for it to fit so what do i have to do
 
AdamR said:
You need to pull the center link and tire rod. They run through the driver side header.
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that goes for all fulllength abody headers i know of:)

tti are the only ones i know of that dont run the centerlink trhu them not realy sure what brand dusterboy is is instaling but ..

*most headers for abody mopars install from under the car.

*take out the studs in the front and back bolt holes in the cylinderheads they are long and eats up space..

*take out the starter, reinstal it before bolting the headers to the heads it will go in there but its eating up space while you are trying to install headers.

*if you cant get the space only lifting motor put it down again and reinstal passanger side motormount, then lift motor again so you tilt the motor over, this will make some more space, it may not seem right but try it.

*make sure front of car is high enough above ground, most headers go in with the front end first upwards and colector pointing downwards, yeah it sounds stupid but thats the way it is and the colector angled alitle inwards in
under the motor then as soon as cylinder#1 primary tube is above top of stearingbox start tilting headers back level while lifting it in place.

not sure what brand headers you are instaling but they are all alitle pain in the *** to instal hooker#5116 have a sliptube#1cylinder primary tube that makes them easier to instal and TTI have a sliptube #7primarytube for ease of instalation but except for those i think they are all very similar

someone correct me if i have writen anymistakes here ;)
 
It's actually quite easy if you pull the steering column and unbolt the steering box from the K-member. It only takes about 20 minutes to do that and the headers will slide in just like the passenger side. After you have the header in don't bolt it to the block until you have the steering box bolted back down, you need to be able to move the header around to access the box bolts.

You don't even need to un do motor mounts and jack the engine.
 
Just another reason to buy tti's for the easy installation alone,i believe i had mine installed in about a half an hour..:thumrigh:
 
340srule said:
Just another reason to buy tti's for the easy installation alone,i believe i had mine installed in about a half an hour..:thumrigh:
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i agree on that one, took me about 1 hour from start to finnish on installing my TTI headers alone in the garage with a real bad hangover one morning:thumrigh: so i gues whitout the hangover it would have been about 30minutes.....
 
340srule said:
Just another reason to buy tti's for the easy installation alone,i believe i had mine installed in about a half an hour..:thumrigh:
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Spend an additional $400-$500 for the headers to save approximately 45 minutes on the installation doesn't make a lot of sense to me.
 
dgc333 said:
Spend an additional $400-$500 for the headers to save approximately 45 minutes on the installation doesn't make a lot of sense to me.
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Thats just one of the reasons to buy them..along with the quality of the workmanship,fit and finish,and they STILL look nice after 3 seasons of use,and the fact i DON'T have to worry about potholes or smashing them,like you do with cheaper ones,that is unless you jack up your torsion bars so the cheap ones clear everything,i find most people that say negative things about tti's are the ones that don't run them,people who have them usual love them...like an old saying goes.."quality cost how much you want to spend"...
 
dgc333 said:
Spend an additional $400-$500 for the headers to save approximately 45 minutes on the installation doesn't make a lot of sense to me.
Click to expand...

You dont have to dis-assemble the front suspension

You can remove and replace the starter with out removing the header

You dont smash the header tubes on every bump.

The flanges are 3/8" thick so they dont leak and blow gaskets every other week.

The collectors actually line up with the cut outs in the cross member

You can get to the bolts

You dont melt the 5 and 7 spark plug wires on the #5 tube

Plenty of reason why TTIs are worth the money. People will spend thousands on building a car then stick the cheapest headers and converter they can on it. I dont understand it.
 
uuhhh yea.....what he said. hell, in my shop even a big difference between hooker comp and super comp on a sbc. better headers are worth the money.
 
AdamR said:
You dont have to dis-assemble the front suspension

You can remove and replace the starter with out removing the header

You dont smash the header tubes on every bump.

The flanges are 3/8" thick so they dont leak and blow gaskets every other week.

The collectors actually line up with the cut outs in the cross member

You can get to the bolts

You dont melt the 5 and 7 spark plug wires on the #5 tube

Plenty of reason why TTIs are worth the money. People will spend thousands on building a car then stick the cheapest headers and converter they can on it. I dont understand it.
Click to expand...

Undoing two nuts and separating a center link is about a 5 minute operation, not something that would come into consideration for which headers to chose.

I am running Hedmans and have removed and replaced a full size starter with a mini stater without touching the headers. Disconnect the center link from drivers side tie rod and turn the wheel full left and a full size slides right out. You just need to turn the wheel without disconnecting the center link to R&R the mini starter.

I am running the suspension at the FSM specified ride height and the only time they have touched anything is if I go into the garage too fast (I have an abrupt 4" step from the driveway to the garage floor). I drive my car every where to the tune of 7-8k miles a year and have 20k on the Hedmans in the car and I have never bottomed on a speed bump or anything else in the road.

The thicker flanges are nice but since I haven't had any leaks in 20k miles it certainly isn't an issue.

You got me on the collector thing but it's a non issue to bend pipe from the collector through the cross member cut outs.

Hedman supplied header bolts with a 3/8" hex with the headers and all of them are easily reached with either an open end wrench or 1/4" drive socket.

I just routed the wires under the #3 tube that runs above cylinder 5 & 7 plugs and haven't damaged a wire in 20k miles.

The Hedmans fit without requiring any denting or massaging to clear everything, something that enough people mention having to do with TTI's to make me feel they are not better from a fitment standpoint.

TTI's are certainly nice headers but I can't see how they can justify $600-$700 for them when everyone else gets $150 - $300. I don't know why with the CAD tools available all the companies selling headers have not taken the opportunity to redesign their product so none of the tubes run under the center link. Same for the flanges a simple change in material thickness.

IMHO, the first company that invests in the time to reroute the tubes over the steering link and keeps the $150- $300 price and TTI won't sell another set of headers.
 
dgc333 said:
IMHO, the first company that invests in the time to reroute the tubes over the steering link and keeps the $150- $300 price and TTI won't sell another set of headers.
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I totally agree with that.

I used 4 set of TTIs, They all go in nice and look nice. I wouldnt say ever other header on the market is $150 to $300 though. Maybe everyones entry level headers but start looking at the price of Super Comps, Hedmen's Hussler series, Doug Thorley. Coated headers start in the $300 range with some of the Hookers and Hedmens over $1000 and thats only coated on the outside.

I paid $690 shipped for my TTIs. I tried a set of $450 Hooker Super comps before them. Cant used power steering with them (didnt matter to me but...) and they hit my Milodon oil pan.
 
dgc333 you do have a point there, but i also feel the TTIs cost more since they are more heavy duty
i agree to 100% that its stupid non of the other companys make them that way but i gues that as long as people keep buying the cheaper,old design they wont change it cause there is no reason and as long as that is the case nothing will change and tti will keap on making headers for that high price.
i do have a litle plan to try to convince the company i work for that we start making headers of a similar design but alitle cheaper but sweden is kind of small and development time is long, but i for one am looking at the possibility, and i have the tools for it, i just need to convince the right people and make it profitable...

now over to dusterboy and his friend wish this thread is about, how´s it going? did the sugestions do any good?
 
I'm on my second set of tti's on my second duster not ONE fitament problem to speak of here,my last duster came with hedmans on it i had to beat those things off the fit was so bad/tight,and having to route spark plug wires all around so as not to burn,another thing you don't need to do with tti's,the spark plugs are right there,until someone makes a better header its tti's for me...i've got 3 friends running cheaper headers on their a-bodys all three have scratches/dents from hitting things..not me:thumrigh::thumrigh:
 
I DONT HAVE TTI....this is my friends car and he has flowtech so please help me. im not getting TTI guys until i have the money, so if you guys can help i would love it. We unbolted the mounts and lifter the motor as high as possible but it went so high it started to lift the car. so am i suppose to unbolt the motor mount from the car? or what
 
duster340 said:
that goes for all fulllength abody headers i know of:)

tti are the only ones i know of that dont run the centerlink trhu them not realy sure what brand dusterboy is is instaling but ..

*most headers for abody mopars install from under the car.

*take out the studs in the front and back bolt holes in the cylinderheads they are long and eats up space..

*take out the starter, reinstal it before bolting the headers to the heads it will go in there but its eating up space while you are trying to install headers.

*if you cant get the space only lifting motor put it down again and reinstal passanger side motormount, then lift motor again so you tilt the motor over, this will make some more space, it may not seem right but try it.

*make sure front of car is high enough above ground, most headers go in with the front end first upwards and colector pointing downwards, yeah it sounds stupid but thats the way it is and the colector angled alitle inwards in
under the motor then as soon as cylinder#1 primary tube is above top of stearingbox start tilting headers back level while lifting it in place.

not sure what brand headers you are instaling but they are all alitle pain in the *** to instal hooker#5116 have a sliptube#1cylinder primary tube that makes them easier to instal and TTI have a sliptube #7primarytube for ease of instalation but except for those i think they are all very similar

someone correct me if i have writen anymistakes here ;)
Click to expand...

here you go again dont forget to unbolt the centerlink from the drivers side and push it over to the passanger side that way its not in the way
 
I Have Installed These A Few Times. I Had My Best Luck By Just Unbolting The Side Your Working On Wether It Be Passenger Or Driver. Just Raise That Side And Leave The Other Bolted. By Getting The Motor Sideways You Seem To Get A Little More Room. That Is What Worked For Me
 
Yes you need to unbolt the motor mount from the frame. Otherwise the motor doesnt raise up does it.
 
Yes,just like Larry said unbolt one side at a time,i like to put a wood block under the oil pan and jack it up from there just be careful not to damage the pan...
 
my gues whas that dusterboy have unbolted both enginemounts and lifted until the transmission hits the tunnel and start lifting the car´, been there done that...thats why i wrote all the stuff that i did write in the first place that i kind of think that dusterboy forgot to read.... o well
 
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