Please read this post carefully. I need real answers. I have a '65 Dart that I've restored as a race car. I have a 360/408 that puts out 510HP. I purchased Headman Husler 1 7/8 fenderwell headers. It took a fair amount of beating and cutting to get them to fit. With the fenderwells missing, I still need to remove the fenders to get them on or off. Originally the car had Dougs and a 360. The fit was rediculous. I'm looking for REAL suggestions for headers that fit. 1 3/4 will work. The 1 5/8 Hooker comps are a little too restrictive for the piston speed of a stroker. I'm looking to put the Dart in the low 10.70-high 10.60. Thanks
Headers For '65 Dart
- Thread starter A/MP
- Start date
-
ddartdude
Well-Known Member
Check the headers on Blowfish's Cuda. There ia an update on his post in this section. Really nice car. I think they might do the trick for you.
stroker402
1968 dart GTS convertible
I have them on my 65 dart SB and have NO problem what so ever taking them on and off the car.
Fenderwheels are intact.
I do not have to take the fender off the car also.
Don't know why you are having such a problem.
darty
Fenderwheels are intact.
I do not have to take the fender off the car also.
Don't know why you are having such a problem.
darty
Outsider
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Feb 15, 2009
- Messages
- 514
- Reaction score
- 3
OK. I read the post very carefully. First question.
" I have a '65 Dart that I've restored as a race car."
Did you RESTORE the car? Is it an old race car?" If so then you need original speed parts for your restoration... yes?
"I have a 360/408 that puts out 510HP." Even though this is a later motor is this engine dressed up as a '65 race motor, so you need headers that will still be period correct?
Do you still have the early master cylinder?
If so, then Hooker made the only headers you can use.
If not, you may need to have custom headers made if you can't get them out of a catalog.
These headers are big enough, and will get you into the tens, but you have to run the original single reservoir mastser...which I do. I can remove the headers in less than 15 minutes, and change spark plugs blindfolded. You can run the heating system, but the wiring down the drivers inner fender is a trick. Unfortunately these headers are vintage units, and and no longer made. They will require some searching.
Forgot to mention the car was an original D/S, then D/MP car.
" I have a '65 Dart that I've restored as a race car."
Did you RESTORE the car? Is it an old race car?" If so then you need original speed parts for your restoration... yes?
"I have a 360/408 that puts out 510HP." Even though this is a later motor is this engine dressed up as a '65 race motor, so you need headers that will still be period correct?
Do you still have the early master cylinder?
If so, then Hooker made the only headers you can use.
If not, you may need to have custom headers made if you can't get them out of a catalog.
These headers are big enough, and will get you into the tens, but you have to run the original single reservoir mastser...which I do. I can remove the headers in less than 15 minutes, and change spark plugs blindfolded. You can run the heating system, but the wiring down the drivers inner fender is a trick. Unfortunately these headers are vintage units, and and no longer made. They will require some searching.
Forgot to mention the car was an original D/S, then D/MP car.
66dartman
Well-Known Member
Considering the small engine bay limitations, and all the trouble caused by it, the fit of the Dougs is about as good as it gets for an under car header on an early a. The tti's go from 1-5/8 to 1-3/4, but you need a different($270) starter to use them and I don't know if they are any better fit than Dougs. I am going to build a 416 in the future for mine and am thinking of using some of the basic Dougs designs to make a custom 1-3/4 header, improving the deficencies of the Dougs. Keep us posted if you decide on a custom header.
They are a mother to install as well, but the TTIs on my 416 are the way to go, looks, power which is what you want etc.
I went with 3" pipes to boot, but in a race car nce they are installed you will be OK.
PS I even have a 727 behind the engine, that was the hard part, should of left the headers loose, I had to urn the trans sideway to get her in offer the headers.
You need to mod the oil filter mount and have a 90 it is easy to do, but I choose to relocate the filter and installed a hi flow canton unit on the block instead.
The T bars and other suspension parts weave the pipes, and I put them in place as I lowered the engine in, it was easier.. NOT EASY! need a rack and 2 people would make the install better.
Also if you dont have Power Steering that would be a HUGE +++
I went with 3" pipes to boot, but in a race car nce they are installed you will be OK.
PS I even have a 727 behind the engine, that was the hard part, should of left the headers loose, I had to urn the trans sideway to get her in offer the headers.
You need to mod the oil filter mount and have a 90 it is easy to do, but I choose to relocate the filter and installed a hi flow canton unit on the block instead.
The T bars and other suspension parts weave the pipes, and I put them in place as I lowered the engine in, it was easier.. NOT EASY! need a rack and 2 people would make the install better.
Also if you dont have Power Steering that would be a HUGE +++
Outsider
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Feb 15, 2009
- Messages
- 514
- Reaction score
- 3
Just to give you an idea of how massive these things are look at the headers in the above pic of the red '65, and notice that at the highest bend, they rise to nearly level with the top of the valve cover. The compare them to mine, and notice that the highest bend in my headers is close to 12 inches ABOVE the valve cover. My car looks like a Big Daddy Roth t-shirt when dressed up. :cheers:
So lets see them installed on your car. I agree, I don't see why you are having a problem. There's a member on here that's selling 1 7/8" headers, take a look at his. Also, how did you come up with 510HP?
pishta
I know I'm right....
402 stroker with decent prepped heads are fully capable of 500+ hp even with a somewhat mild MP .509 cam. Edels or W2's and the numbers go higher.
So, was the motor dynoed?
I also had a set of these on one of my 65's and they do fit real nice but they have been discontinued for 30+ years so finding a set will be tough. I had a stock master cylinder on that car also.
Post some photos of your car,
I have the Headman Hustlers and I had no issues with fit on my car. The only modifications I done to the headers was I relocated the little tabs that hold the header halves together. The only thing with the car that needed work is I had to notch the upper portion of the shock mount above the shock which was easy and minimal.
Getting them on and off is easy as well, I had them on and off a dozen times while I was mocking the car together. The right side just requires the engine to be raised about a 1/2" and the left side does need the master cylinder to be loose or removed. But I have my fender wells cut close to the headers with only about an 1 1/2" clearance or less around them, if your fender wells are cut out larger or removed then you shouldn't have to mess with the master cylinder at all. Another thing is I'm running Edlebrock heads which are bulkier and that makes it a little harder, I had mocked it up with stock heads and it went a lot easier.
ok i havent installed eng in car yet currently have Spitfires on it but imo the fenderwell headers not only look bitchen but they would be better perfomance wise on my SB what brand are yours and do they come with sheet metal cut out template?? Cost is around??
Beautiful job Blownfish can you tell me what brand your fenderwell hdrs are? also if you would what brand and measurements are the alum Rad thanx BertI also had a set of these on one of my 65's and they do fit real nice but they have been discontinued for 30+ years so finding a set will be tough. I had a stock master cylinder on that car also.
Post some photos of your car,
I have the Headman Hustlers and I had no issues with fit on my car. The only modifications I done to the headers was I relocated the little tabs that hold the header halves together. The only thing with the car that needed work is I had to notch the upper portion of the shock mount above the shock which was easy and minimal.
Getting them on and off is easy as well, I had them on and off a dozen times while I was mocking the car together. The right side just requires the engine to be raised about a 1/2" and the left side does need the master cylinder to be loose or removed. But I have my fender wells cut close to the headers with only about an 1 1/2" clearance or less around them, if your fender wells are cut out larger or removed then you shouldn't have to mess with the master cylinder at all. Another thing is I'm running Edlebrock heads which are bulkier and that makes it a little harder, I had mocked it up with stock heads and it went a lot easier.
The headers are Headman Hustlers.
The radiator is a Griffin, 26" I think. I made the mounting bracket myself, I used the rubber blocks from those hooks you buy for your trucks stake pockets, just cut them to fit.
Rob Eppler
My Dart Charger...home made!
a different approach. I made an adapter plate 3/8" thick with mopar port configuration and counter sunk the bolts. Next I bought Chevy blanks [round port configuration 1 7/8"] cut them individually {end blanks} Using these blanks I then "clocked" the port blanks for easy bolt access. Then started with 1 7/8" stubs and began the "build" process. Buying all the "header" tubes from Chassis Shops; j bends, u bends and even a couple of 360's called donuts! The headers are then steped up all the way to 2 1/8 into the collectors. I have no problems installing them in 20 minutes per side or less. I use NO gaskets just high temp rtv! My car uses the Brodix heads and the R-3 block. What does it run you ask? Consistant 10' teens @ 130. I have built a second set for a friend, and he consistantly runs 9.50's @ 139! They work w/the late style Mopar M/C. [this is a '89/90 dodge truck 4 X 4 M/C which uses the 1 1/8 bore!]
Now there's "yankee Ingenuity" from my home of Michigan. Do you have any pics. Rob?
pettybludart
Well-Known Member
Yes Rob,pics please!Also are you making anymore of these headers?Speacial order??:-D
Rob Eppler
My Dart Charger...home made!
just got a new camera for my birthday!!! so I can take pix and show how it has been accomplished. However, since I've never posted pix on this web site or any others for that matter, I need help or I can send the pix to you if you would like to give me your e-mail address. I teach auto shop in monroe mi. e-mail is: [email protected] Just put in a request, I'll take pix tomorrow @ school and send them to you! After you take a look @ them let me know what you think!
thank you.
thank you.
pettybludart
Well-Known Member
E-mail sent!
Vic Storm
Well-Known Member
Blownfish, what a motor man!! Is that one of those that bolts onto a four barrel intake? Beautiful bud, I can't stop drooling! Anywhere on the net I can hear it run? Sorry to interrupt your thread guys but I couldn't help it.
Thanks!
It's a BDS intake, most blower intakes are standard aluminum intakes that has been cut up and re-welded into a blower intake. that is the only type blower intake I could find for a small block, I am looking for a true blower intake but they are far and few between. They're easy to find for BB's, Hemi's and Chevy's but not small blocks.
This reply is going to be vague, due to time since I had this setup on my 65 dart with a stock location 340/727 setup. I had a set of hooker(?) fenderwell headers, 1 7/8 tube, with slip on collectors and adjustable primary lengths with extra slip on tubes. I have no idea if these are even made anymore, just know they fit. The collectors pointed down at the same angle as the rear fenderwell wall, I beleive they were three inch? With some research, you might find out what part number they were. I beleive they came off a 340 1970 cuda a friend was racing. After thirtytwo years some facts get a little murky!
-
