Headers

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SBeeMan

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Thinking of going big block in my '69 Dart drag car,manual steering .
Who makes the best fitting under car header for this swap.
I have all sorts of B-body headers in the shop,Hooker,Headman....anyway to use any of these?
Thanks
 
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Thanks for the link.
I have both 383's and 440's to build.
I was leaning towards the 440's....wondering if they would work with it?
 
I don't believe they would work well with a 440. I have the set in the BBD pictures, and it's tight in places with the B block (but minimal dimples in only a couple places). The RB is taller and wider, of course, and enough tubes may need to be reworked to make a purpose-built header a better choice. Just my 2 cents.
 
Thanks Dr.
I have TTI race headers for a small block.
Guess I'll sale off my small block parts and go from there.
 
I bought 2" to 2 1/8" step headers from Mazzolini, Pro Parts style, semi-fender well. Then I had them ceramic coated. They allow power steering and starter removal/install, but they are $$$$$$$$$$$
 
How is the ground clearance?
Don't know yet, but I am assuming pretty good since two tubes go over the frame on one side and one on the other. They are slip tube, makes everything easier. Has a similar set of Hookers on a Hemi car I once had and really liked them.
 
Proparts are by far the best. Very easy installation. Small cut outs to the inner fenders.

proparts2.jpg


propartsBOB.jpg
 
How is the ground clearance?
Good, lowest part is the collector flange, and you can run a normal size front tire. Only drawback is you have to cut the car up. They are close to $1000 uncoated. I put them on a b block, they are made for a RB block. I did have to dent a few tubes that touched the block. Spark plugs a tough to get too.
 
With Proparts as well as most big block exhausts, you need to cut an access hole for #6 plug

DSC00060.jpg
 
#5 is the tough one for me with Pro Parts headers. The rest aren't a big deal, but to get to 5, I have to drop the starter and go from the bottom, the steering shaft is in the way to get behind it a d the primary is in the way from the too. I've burned a lot of boots too, there isn't much plug clearance. Ceramic boots with heat sleeve over them seems to be holding up.
 
#5 is the tough one for me with Pro Parts headers. The rest aren't a big deal, but to get to 5, I have to drop the starter and go from the bottom, the steering shaft is in the way to get behind it a d the primary is in the way from the too. I've burned a lot of boots too, there isn't much plug clearance. Ceramic boots with heat sleeve over them seems to be holding up.
Maybe it is #5, the one between tube 1 and 7. I run the wire strait down from the top, over the valve cover. I haven’t burned any boots, I use the heat shield sleeves on that one. Too bad they don’t make a smaller diameter primary tube version of this header. Would be better for the street.
 
Agreed, a slightly smaller primary tube would be great. They fit in the car good, but they dont leave much room for the spark plugs.
 
Are you guys running heads with straight or angled plugs?

Would one be easier than the other?
 
I have a couple of customers running the PP headers on RB blocks with raised port heads(Indy), and they have angled plugs too.
I’ve never asked about plug access, but they never mentioned it being a problem....... so I was kinda surprised several here say there are some issues there.
 
I have eddy heads on mine. Plugs are angled slightly. It’s just that one that’s tough. I do have a few holes thru the passenger side inner fender.
 
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