headlight recommendation for my Duster

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I don't recall if I pulled the Cibies out of the Yota 4x4 when I sold it. Mid 70s vintage, refugees from my desert racer :lol: . Very well designed. Nice broad beams on Lo for those foggy conditions and on Hi, see into the next county :lol:. The Cibies and the KC Daylighters/pencil beams if used in conjunction on the Baja Bug put such a load on the 12v VW generator it would almost kill the engine :lol:
 
I went with 2012 Jeep Wrangler headlamps. They bolt in, but the connector needs to be modified. I also used relays when I installed them.

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The Cibie E codes are plain badass. WHY they are not DOT approved, I have no clue. They certainly should be.
 
RustyRatRod said:
WHY they are not DOT approved, I have no clue. They certainly should be.
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Because they are different standards developed seperately over many decades.

One obvious reason many US States did not allow them is that the lenses weren't molded with the nibs for the mechanical aimers. Since the mechanical aimers were how these states checked headlights were pointing where they should, the European stuff was off road only as far as they were concerned. This seems to have started to change in the mid 90s. Now one of the last hold holdouts NJ apparently doesn't even check headlight aim at annual inspection (at least that's my impression drving at night the past year).
:soapbox:

I agree it would nice if the US and ECE countries could resolve the differences in approach and testing.
Dan Stern summarizes the differences post 31 Best headlights for 9004 bulbs? '95 Mazda Mx6 - Page 2

Fortunately, in the past few years many states have come to accept e-code lamps as replacements.
U. S. Federal legality of ECE type-approved auxiliary lamps

Updated Hella "Super" 7" H4 Headlights

FWIW the older sealed beams are legal but dont have DOT or SAE molded into the lenses.
Also one that bit me was Hella makes an H4 lamp assembly marked DOT but actually was only for Motorcycle use. The high/low split is really annoying. I gave those away and bought the DOT version back when the Barracuda was still registered and inspected in NJ. Much better.

I'm sure Dan Stern can say much more about the differences and why E codes are not or can not generally be also DOT accepted.
 
These are jeep LED replacements I think. I put them in after reading a thread here. They make a hell of a difference I’ll tell ya. I’ll find the actual brand or thread
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I had narrowed my choices between a new Yota, the smaller one, and the RAM 1500 when I replaced the previous pickup. All of the pickups on the market at the time had some attraction to me, but RAM and Yota were top of the list. The last thing I did before my purchase was tell the sellers "Hey! Turn the lights on! I wanna see what they look like!" One lap around the Yota "See ya!" :lol: Halos, little narrow LED stripes :wtf: odd shapes :BangHead:. They're just lights. Primary function safety and driveability.
 
Way back in '76, I found these Ampilux halogen headlights for sale. I did a lot of night driving in the CA desert and wanted better lighting. These worked, but blew the headlight relay, no surprise. I built my own headlight relay system without cutting any of the original wiring so I could go back if needed. It still works, 48 years later and I used it on my car during restoration. The Ampilux are great but no longer produced. Porsche used them on 911's in the '70's as well. Use Bosch relays if at all possible. I got mine from a junkyard but they are dead reliable. No Chinese junk parts.

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I installed the Toyota kit Part Number: 81110-60P70, bought from the local dealer for $25. The kit came with both headlights, bulbs and relay wiring harness. The harness was way too long, so I cut it down and made it fit my dart in a more stock manner. I have not drove the car at night yet, so I cannot report on the performance yet. But the price was better than buying two sealed beam bulbs.
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