Headlight Relay Kits

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Mojoe9955 said:
How does this system affect the tail lights? Will they become brighter?
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Only the headlamps are brightened by putting in a relay harness. If you want the rest of the lights brighter/working better, check/improve the grounds at all four corners of the car, make sure the feed wires and all connections are in good condition, and do like this.
 
I would say your taillights COULD BE brightened by just the headlight load being reduced on the entire lighting system....JMHO....
 
rowinafour said:
81110-60P70 is what I got. Bought direct from a Toyota dealership. 30+ bucks. Place was a brand new facility here by I-90 in Austinburg. Cleaner than some hospitals…wow.
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Interesting. Is that a 4 headlight separated high and low beam assemblies or a 2 headlight hi/lo combo?
 
Furious65 said:
Interesting. Is that a 4 headlight separated high and low beam assemblies or a 2 headlight hi/lo combo?
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I just got my 2 light Toyota kit today. I got it off ebay out of Richmond KY.
Other than the power connections being a little small and the bulky cover, I think it's pretty nice.

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Mojoe9955 said:
How does this system affect the tail lights? Will they become brighter?
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I used one of Crackedbacks kits and the dash lights got brighter. So did the tail lights now that I think about it.

Pretty sure there is video somewhere on here of it.
 
The relay takes the heavy draw off the switch so yeah, maybe full power at switch without the draw helps out the dash lights IDK. If you want brighter taillights, put some led bulbs back there.
 
72dustervs said:
www.ebay.com

H4 9003 Headlamp Wiring harness conversion Kit socket Relay Wiring Headlights | eBay

This is a Universal Harness with relay kit they work great on vehicles with h4 connection also headlights such as 7 round,and 7x6" Halogen H4 Headlight Relay Harness with Hi Heat Ceramic Plugs for Cars & Trucks with 2 Headlights - HI and LOW Beams.
www.ebay.com
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I looked on the eBay’s link, it doesn’t say anything about if it would work on a four headlight system, do you know if it would?
 
65Val said:
Just be aware… those kits are made with 16 ga. Wire…tried one on my Dart with PIAA halogen bulbs…30 secs and the wires were warm to the touch. I’d stay away!
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From what I have read up on , this is the norm for headlight wiring below , doesn't mean I did enough research , just what I have read , but if I have issues I will change out and use a better 14 gauge ground wire to see if it resolves an issue as you describe , I do have one installed on my 79 f100 with better halogen lights and haven't noticed a hotter than normal wire but will check better to see if it has issues after running longer than I have before , on the 72 Duster I am going to use JW Speaker led headlights , and will be checking those more closely when I get to try them out for the first time
  • 18 gauge wire for the high beam
  • 16 gauge wire for the low beam
  • 14 gauge for the ground connection.
 
72dustervs said:
From what I have read up on , this is the norm for headlight wiring below , doesn't mean I did enough research , just what I have read , but if I have issues I will change out and use a better 14 gauge ground wire to see if it resolves an issue as you describe , I do have one installed on my 79 f100 with better halogen lights and haven't noticed a hotter than normal wire but will check better to see if it has issues after running longer than I have before , on the 72 Duster I am going to use JW Speaker led headlights , and will be checking those more closely when I get to try them out for the first time
  • 18 gauge wire for the high beam
  • 16 gauge wire for the low beam
  • 14 gauge for the ground connection.
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Maybe my PIAA bulbs (60/55W) draw more current than std. halogen lamps. I did notice Crackedback’s kits use 12 gauge wire?
 
TrailBeast said:
I also made my own, but have a relay for each filament. (4 relays)
If one relay feeds both low beams and one feeds both hi beams, then the loss of one relay takes out both lights.
Didn’t like that idea much.

Also all headlights are now 10 ga. wire including the grounds.
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Relays are probably 40A, minimum 30A, so the relays should last for decades. Should use circuit breakers on at least the low beams as a blown fuse can leave you without. A circuit breaker will reset and lights come on again.
Ran into the circuit breaker kicking out on a Vauxhaul after I installed halogen headlights. Of course they went out only after getting on a dark country road going home. I fixed that with one relay for left hi beam and one for right hi beam with a 30A fuse for each side. The original wire to the high beam can be removed from the socket and installed on the relay control circuit, 85 or 86. Then run a 10 ga wire from the 87 to the hi beam socket position.
Electric fans draw a lot of current so a 40A relay and fuse should be used with 10ga wires from power to the fuse, from fuse to relay and then to the fan. The control circuit can be 16ga as it requires very little current. A 200° temperature switch will turn it on and off. Other temperatures are available, but should be 10° to 15° warmer than the thermostat.
 
CRUZE 418 said:
I have Crackedbacks harness in my '69 from a couple of years ago. Not sure about the taillights, but will definitely brighten your dash lights up. Would like to do my 2 other cars, but I am not into making it up from a pile of parts.
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Dash lights probably due to less current draw so less voltage drop through the switch. I doubt the tail light difference would be noticable.
To really brighten the tail lights you would need to run a fused 10ga wire to the trunk. Three 30A relays. One for the tail lights and one each for left and right turn. If the brake lights are separate from the turn signals, you need one more relay. The short run from the relay to the bulb results in less voltage drop and brighter lights.
 
72dustervs said:
there are more on ebay for dual headlights , if you search
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Lots of those are chinese crap. Easy enough to make your own with Bosch relays and American or European made fuse folders. The less Chinesium we use the better. China is a hostile adversary, so we do not want to support it if possible.
Watch the video about Summit removing all Speedmaster products.
 
Dale Davies said:
Relays are probably 40A, minimum 30A, so the relays should last for decades. Should use circuit breakers on at least the low beams as a blown fuse can leave you without. A circuit breaker will reset and lights come on again.
Ran into the circuit breaker kicking out on a Vauxhaul after I installed halogen headlights. Of course they went out only after getting on a dark country road going home. I fixed that with one relay for left hi beam and one for right hi beam with a 30A fuse for each side. The original wire to the high beam can be removed from the socket and installed on the relay control circuit, 85 or 86. Then run a 10 ga wire from the 87 to the hi beam socket position.
Electric fans draw a lot of current so a 40A relay and fuse should be used with 10ga wires from power to the fuse, from fuse to relay and then to the fan. The control circuit can be 16ga as it requires very little current. A 200° temperature switch will turn it on and off. Other temperatures are available, but should be 10° to 15° warmer than the thermostat.
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I had thermostat controlled electric cooling, but I was getting ready to add AC so I pulled it all and went with a more capable radiator and clutched 7 blade steel fan.

Originally these cars had a basic circuit breaker built into the headlight switch, but they are a bi metal type and works basically like a old school signal flasher ( but slower)
Using headlight relays basically makes it useless anyway.

I don’t have fuses or circuit breakers on the headlights.
Relays only, and very well insulated and protected wiring.
Each of the four relays are 30 amp.(overkill) for sure.
 
TrailBeast said:
I had thermostat controlled electric cooling, but I was getting ready to add AC so I pulled it all and went with a more capable radiator and clutched 7 blade steel fan.

Originally these cars had a basic circuit breaker built into the headlight switch, but they are a bi metal type and works basically like a old school signal flasher ( but slower)
Using headlight relays basically makes it useless anyway.

I don’t have fuses or circuit breakers on the headlights.
Relays only, and very well insulated and protected wiring.
Each of the four relays are 30 amp.(overkill) for sure.
Click to expand...
I do like fuses coming from the power supply to the relays, just in case.
Local Ford dealer had a shop fire a few weekends ago. Service department is totally shut down. Word is they had a truck on the hoist with a wiring issue bad enough they could smell hot wiring. Now how any responsible mechanic would leave for the weekend without disconnecting the battery is beyond my comprehension. How many other vehicles were in the shop and how many mechanics tool boxes are junk?
 
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