Heads 4927596

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Eric Griffith

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Hi Everyone,
I bought a set of Known Good Heads Casting # 4027596 (Matched Pair) ,But the Delivery service dropped one,Breaking off the corner.
The seller had another 4027596 head,But this one had extra water ports,and had been Shaved.
I can get my other good one shaved to match,But I am concerned about the water ports.
Is the one with the extra ports going to run cooler,and change the way my engine runs?
These are 360 heads I am putting on a 69' 318 for My 70' Barracuda.
Any thoughts??
 
If you're putting 360 heads on a 318 you'd better have them machined because your compression ratio is going to suck. I don't know about the water jackets.
 
Just arrange the heads so the extra water port is on the back. They won't be used back there. That keeps them out of the mix in the first place.
If you're talking about the port that goes to the intake manifold that is.
 
turtleheadjoe said:
If you're putting 360 heads on a 318 you'd better have them machined because your compression ratio is going to suck. I don't know about the water jackets.
Click to expand...
So if you didn't know why even bother with a non helpful reply that is off the topic and assumes he doesn't know.

Then again, you have no idea what he is doing or how he is building the engine.
 
Eric Griffith said:
Hi Everyone,
I bought a set of Known Good Heads Casting # 4027596 (Matched Pair) ,But the Delivery service dropped one,Breaking off the corner.
The seller had another 4027596 head,But this one had extra water ports,and had been Shaved.
I can get my other good one shaved to match,But I am concerned about the water ports.
Is the one with the extra ports going to run cooler,and change the way my engine runs?
These are 360 heads I am putting on a 69' 318 for My 70' Barracuda.
Any thoughts??
Click to expand...

Don't worry. The extra water port is t going through effect the engine in any meaningful way in the way it run or needs a tune.
 
rumblefish360 said:
So if you didn't know why even bother with a non helpful reply that is off the topic and assumes he doesn't know.

Then again, you have no idea what he is doing or how he is building the engine.
Click to expand...

You're right, maybe he's going to dump a bunch of boost in it so he'll want 8:1 Compression.

He asked about heads, I told him about heads. If you've got a problem with it that's fine, scroll on by. Your reply to me was far less "on topic" and offered zero to the post.
 
I think you may be better off finding another non-shaved head. A machine shop may charge you more in labor and work to match the CC's of the chambers, than what a good bare core will cost. I believe there is a single bare head for sale on mechanical parts. My$.02
 
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turtleheadjoe said:
You're right, maybe he's going to dump a bunch of boost in it so he'll want 8:1 Compression.
Click to expand...
Now your thinking!

If you've got a problem with it that's fine, scroll on by.
Click to expand...
Naaaaaaa

Your reply to me was far less "on topic" and offered zero to the post.
Click to expand...
That's because it was directed at you.

No worries, have a great one!
 
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The Extra water ports are on either side of the 2nd and forth head bolt(Of 5) on the deck near the exhaust port side,and the other One is also on the Deck,near the 3rd Head bolt near the intake port side.
I was planning to get the Heads shaved anyway to regain some compression,possibly replacing the Tulip 1.88/1.60 for flat faced valves to lose some CC's.
So, the main concern was the water ports on the one making the one side run cooler/Different.
What is strange is, all of them have the same Casting Number.
The reason I wanted them is because 1980-1984 police 318's has those heads, so I have a plan as how not to lose too much compression.
1985 and later police 318 engines used roller lifters, and had completely different heads.
 
rumblefish360 said:
Don't worry. The extra water port is t going through effect the engine in any meaningful way in the way it run or needs a tune.
Click to expand...
I was not sure, But another Cuda man at work, who is a Mechanical engineer seems to agree with your thoughts on this issue.
Any thoughts on what cam to sick in it?
I know the police engines did not have the valve reliefs on the pistons, Not sure what I have, since I have not removed the stock 69 318 2v heads yet.
 
If this is a street engine, and you want decent general drivability, you'll need to work a fair amount to avoid losing CR. You are adding 4-5 cc's to the combustion chambers, and will drop the Static CR in to the mid 7's. So it'll have to rev a lot to have any torque, and bottom end torque will be poor.

The valve change will get you back about 2 cc's per chamber so is helpful but IMHO not the most cost effective way to go. Use a .028" 1121G head gasket. Then I'd for sure shave the heads about .030" or even more. .030" shave will get you back about 5 cc's. I'd personally go about .050" at least; that will get you back up into the 8.25 SCR range.

BTW, I am assuming about 6 cc of valve reliefs in the pistons in these calculations. The non-relieved pistons would get rid of that 6 cc of relief volume and pretty well make up for the larger chamber volume of the larger heads. Let us know what you find when you pull heads. Or poke a viewing scope in there....

If you are just drag racing this, then the SCR is not as much of an issue. You would be at WOT and revving the heck out of it all the time anyway. It is in street use where too low a SCR makes the engine a dog.
 
Eric, a lot of "What camshaft should I use?" Is a popular question on forums. You have supplied no information on the topic except for some engine details.
Some of the details and facts needed for such a thought process to begin are;

Tire size
Gear ratio to be used
Auto or manual trans
Engine specs;
Intended or unknown parts to be used like the carb, intake, head and valve sizes, ported or not, headers or not, stock water pump or not etc ...

Intended useage. An example would be;
Pure street, (similar or upgraded factory like performance)
high performance (a street cruiser and part time bruiser) ,
street strip (looking to kick some *** and take names later for there head stones) ,
strip (KILL'EM ALL! GOD will sort them out later.)
LMAO

A lot about a cam shaft choice is also based on what kind of sound, or actually rhythm it produces.
The range in which it operates in.
(1500-4500, 2-6K, 4-7500....)
And how much lift the engine can take before issues with clearance.

So, Eric, what's on your mind, what are you looking to do, have and to get out of your engine?

P.S. I'm also an E body owner.
'73 Cuda, 360/4spd, 4.10's
 
you need to look at the water holes in a head gasket, may show the differences in the heads to be insignificant
 
rumblefish360 said:
Eric, a lot of "What camshaft should I use?" Is a popular question on forums. You have supplied no information on the topic except for some engine details.
Some of the details and facts needed for such a thought process to begin are;

Tire size
Gear ratio to be used
Auto or manual trans
Engine specs;
Intended or unknown parts to be used like the carb, intake, head and valve sizes, ported or not, headers or not, stock water pump or not etc ...

Intended useage. An example would be;
Pure street, (similar or upgraded factory like performance)
high performance (a street cruiser and part time bruiser) ,
street strip (looking to kick some *** and take names later for there head stones) ,
strip (KILL'EM ALL! GOD will sort them out later.)
LMAO

A lot about a cam shaft choice is also based on what kind of sound, or actually rhythm it produces.
The range in which it operates in.
(1500-4500, 2-6K, 4-7500....)
And how much lift the engine can take before issues with clearance.

So, Eric, what's on your mind, what are you looking to do, have and to get out of your engine?

P.S. I'm also an E body owner.
'73 Cuda, 360/4spd, 4.10's
Click to expand...
 
Thanks rumblefish360,
I have had this car for 0ver 30 years.
I had a BB (383)one before this one, But fixing it was not worth it, so I gave the engine and Trans to a friend with a 1970 Challenger, and kept a few parts for this one,Like the 8 3/4 323 third member.
The Engine is a Stock 69' 318,possibly from a Charger, or maybe from a Station Wagon. I think the first one they brought me was the Charger, and had water in the oil.
It ran GREAT!! No smoke, Lots of power for a 2V,But it has been stored covered, last registered in 1987 by me.
Last two times it was started in the last 15 years was 15 years, and 7 years ago. Now it is stuck, But that may be fixable, I have it soaking now for some time.
The Transmission is a 727 torque flight, Built for a 340,and has less than 500 miles on it.
The tires I was running were P225 70 14. The car had a Lot of Top end, but ok on take off.
My brother gave me a Holley 650 spread bore 4V,so I acquired a 69 stock 340 intake, and was planning on the heads mentioned with 1.88/1.60,and was going to port match them.
BTW.. Another friend has a 20,000 mile motor, also a 69 318 short block (Engine Less Heads.. Pan ,front covers still on) ,that already has all of the HP stuff in it, so I may go that way...he only wants $200 Bucks
The Exhaust is the Factory cast headers (Hipo manifolds) correct for a 1970 340 Cuda ,and I want to get an exhaust system to match those 2 1/4 fixed flanges.
I just want a Bit more than what it was, But not necessarily a Raped Ape.
 
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