Heads for mild 360 build

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ratty dart 340

ratty dart 340

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Hello everyone. I’m sure this question has been answered numerous times. I’ve spent quite some time reading through most forums, not only on FABO. I can’t seem to find a definite answer. Many people say conflicting things. With that being said..

I have a 73 dart sport H code. 340 long gone, but it has a 1971 360. The first year for the 360. I have heard these may be the most desirable 360 blocks because they are stronger. Not sure if this is true. I have also heard that 2.02 intake heads for 360’s, are overkill. Some people say they are worth it, others say there is not enough performance under 5,500 rpm to justify the cost. Is this true?

I’m looking to build a mild to moderate 360 build soon. Has an aftermarket cam(unsure what it is because previous owner installed it) new airgap intake, stock (J) heads to that 360, headers, 650 cfm carb. Couple other things. Looking for around 350+ when it’s put together. I want it to be a nice daily street car that can also whoop most cars on the street

My question is, what heads would you recommend for my situation. And even new camshaft and valvetrain possibly.

Sorry if this same question has been answered, but I cannot find it. Thank you.
 
  • your factory J-heads will easily make 350 hp on a 360, without any work other than being freshened up with a good valve job.
 
J heads work nice.
Use the 1.88 intake valves and just refresh the heads. A little cut to flatten them will help the cr a little bit too.
 
Look at the cost to do a set of heads vs buying a set of heads. Machining cost can get expensive.

If you have access to a grinder and can clean up the bowls and intake tract a little that will help. Have to know what camshaft you have to come up with power. An xe268H type cam and some mild port clean up will get you to 350+ hp fairly easily at sea level. At altitude, going to be a tougher task getting 350HP.

1.88's are fine, in fact they are better heads to start with if you wanted to go to a 2.02. BS on the don't use a 2.02 on a 360... I've had 1.94 valves put in the heads too for a nice clean proud seat. Lots of ways to go.
 
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318willrun said:
  • your factory J-heads will easily make 350 hp on a 360, without any work other than being freshened up with a good valve job.
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How do you know that? Have you inspected them? If his heads need much more than being freshened up with a good valve job, it's gonna get expensive, quick. Without good guides, reground seats won't last long. Can his seat stand a regrind without sinking the valves too far? Are they sunk too far already? He's easily facing 1K plus in parts and labor if his 50 plus year old J heads need a complete rebuild. So anything here is a guess at best.
 
Agree, not enough cam to justify the use of the "keeping up with the Jones' Chevy" 2.02 valve heads. Early 360 was supposed to have the 4.04 bore water jackets that would net a thicker 4.00 cylinder wall, but only a guy who sonic checks them would know.
 
And he's in Colorado... thin air...

JMO, look for a closed chamber low dollar aluminum head. If the pistons are factory that will boost compression.
 
RustyRatRod said:
How do you know that? Have you inspected them? If his heads need much more than being freshened up with a good valve job, it's gonna get expensive, quick. Without good guides, reground seats won't last long. Can his seat stand a regrind without sinking the valves too far? Are they sunk too far already? He's easily facing 1K plus in parts and labor if his 50 plus year old J heads need a complete rebuild. So anything here is a guess at best.
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How do you know, did YOU inspect them? ..... so I'll retract and re-state:
  • Ok, "the" factory J heads will support 350 hp easy. To the OP: IF your heads are junk, rusted, cracked, missing valves, cut in half, used for a boat anchor in a salty ocean, then "YOUR" heads may need to be replaced. But, the factory J heads will easily support the 350 + HP goal. :)
 
With the stories of aftermarket head’s needing to be gone through, might as well just go through your stock heads.
 
318willrun said:
How do you know, did YOU inspect them? ..... so I'll retract and re-state:
Ok, "the" factory J heads will support 350 hp easy. To the OP: IF your heads are junk, rusted, cracked, missing valves, cut in half, used for a boat anchor in a salty ocean, then "YOUR" heads may need to be replaced. But, the factory J heads will easily support the 350 + HP goal. :)
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I'm not arguing what the heads will support. What was the last year for J heads? 73? 74? They're gonna need work.
 
RustyRatRod said:
I'm not arguing what the heads will support. What was the last year for J heads? 73? 74? They're gonna need work.
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Maybe.... and maybe they were professionally redone with the cam swap and have a 5 angle valve job....
Read his question again: "My question is, what heads would you recommend for my situation" Look, it's this simple: The Op wanted to know "what heads" to make 350+ hp. I said "J" heads will work for that goal. I stand by that. IF his are junk, then they are junk. He didn't ASK if his were good. He ASKED what heads to reach a goal, and I answered the question. :)

Now, feel free to answer the OP's question and say what heads YOU would recommend :)
 
318willrun said:
Maybe.... and maybe they were professionally redone with the cam swap and have a 5 angle valve job....
Read his question again: "My question is, what heads would you recommend for my situation" Look, it's this simple: The Op wanted to know "what heads" to make 350+ hp. I said "J" heads will work for that goal. I stand by that. IF his are junk, then they are junk. He didn't ASK if his were good. He ASKED what heads to reach a goal, and I answered the question. :)
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I can read man. I'm giving him my perspective, same as you gave yours. Is that ok with you? How bout this? You just give your opinion since it's obviously right all the time and the rest of us dumbasses just shut up? How bout that?
 
RustyRatRod said:
I can read man. I'm giving him my perspective, same as you gave yours. Is that ok with you? How bout this? You just give your opinion since it's obviously right all the time and the rest of us dumbasses just shut up? How bout that?
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LOL.... then don't ask me a DUMB question of "Did you inspect them ??? " I can get sarcastic too..... :D Now, give your head recommendation to HIM, and help get this thread back on track! It's the first page!
 
318willrun said:
LOL.... then don't ask me a DUMB question of "Did you inspect them ??? " I can get sarcastic too..... :D Now, give your head recommendation to HIM, and help get this thread back on track! It's the first page!
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No. I already said I'm done with it. You made the list. I'm tired of your nonsense anyway. I'll update my youtube subscription too.
 
RustyRatRod said:
How do you know that? Have you inspected them? If his heads need much more than being freshened up with a good valve job, it's gonna get expensive, quick. Without good guides, reground seats won't last long. Can his seat stand a regrind without sinking the valves too far? Are they sunk too far already? He's easily facing 1K plus in parts and labor if his 50 plus year old J heads need a complete rebuild. So anything here is a guess at best
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Are you off your meds today? Of course the heads would have to be evaluated. We're not all dumb s**** here like you might think. Now back to our regular scheduled posting.
 
Jadaharabi said:
Are you off your meds today? Of course the heads would have to be evaluated. We're not all dumb s**** here like you might think. Now back to our regular scheduled posting.uating that either.
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No, I wasn't insinuating that either. Was simply trying to .......oh screw it. I'm tired of this.
 
crackedback said:
And he's in Colorado... thin air...

JMO, look for a closed chamber low dollar aluminum head. If the pistons are factory that will boost compression.
Click to expand...
Speedmasters would fill the bill too. He just missed the 40% sale :(
 
RustyRatRod said:
No, I wasn't insinuating that either. Was simply trying to .......oh screw it. I'm tired of this.
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We see what you were trying to do. I don't think there's a one of us here that would put any money into a bad pair of heads. But that was not the question. Basically it gets down to if you're going to use the cast iron heads the J head is one of the best alongside of the 308s. And a 188 intake valve will take you into the low 12 second bracket without a whole lot of work.
 
Jadaharabi said:
We see what you were trying to do. I don't think there's a one of us here that would put any money into a bad pair of heads. But that was not the question. Basically it gets down to if you're going to use the cast iron heads the J head is one of the best alongside of the 308s. And a 188 intake valve will take you into the low 12 second bracket without a whole lot of work.
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Simply why I seldom post or offer suggestions/opinions much here anymore. I simply gave my opinion that I think the J heads would work, answering exactly what the OP asked. Woof, my opinion attacked, asked if I inspected his heads (lol) and "off the tracks" on the first page.
 
318willrun said:
Simply why I seldom post or offer suggestions/opinions much here anymore. I simply gave my opinion that I think the J heads would work, answering exactly what the OP asked. Woof, my opinion attacked, asked if I inspected his heads (lol) and "off the tracks" on the first page.
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It's only because you live on the top of that Hill. I didn't mean to insult you or hurt your feelings please forgive me. You too rusty.
 
318willrun said:
Speedmasters would fill the bill too. He just missed the 40% sale :(
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Yep.

Pick your parts, pay your money.

Even if you bought the SM's and had the VJ fixed, you are going to be in for a decent sized bill with reconditioning J heads with new springs/retainers/etc.

What's the all in cost to run stuff. If it's 700 to run one thing and 850 to do another, not a lot of difference. Spend a couple minutes on each bowl of the SM head and it will make 400+ at sea level with the parts he has and a xe268h type cam.
 
crackedback said:
Yep.

Pick your parts, pay your money.

Even if you bought the SM's and had the VJ fixed, you are going to be in for a decent sized bill with reconditioning J heads with new springs/retainers/etc.

What's the all in cost to run stuff. If it's 700 to run one thing and 850 to do another, not a lot of difference. Spend a couple minutes on each bowl of the SM head and it will make 400+ at sea level with the parts he has and a xe268h type cam.
Click to expand...
Yeah, certainly many ways to skin a cat. If I were the OP, because I have the J heads already, I would start with inspecting them. I just did a small block set of heads - new exhaust valves, new springs, 3 angle valve job, and cut .030 and my bill was just under 500 bucks. Guides were all in tolerance. Now that the black Friday sale is off, those SM heads will ring a 1200 dollar bill - and need studs for fully loaded heads. Still not a bad price, but just say'n.
 
ratty dart 340 said:
I’m looking to build a mild to moderate 360 build soon. Has an aftermarket cam(unsure what it is because previous owner installed it) new airgap intake, stock (J) heads to that 360, headers, 650 cfm carb. Couple other things. Looking for around 350+ when it’s put together. I want it to be a nice daily street car that can also whoop most cars on the street

My question is, what heads would you recommend for my situation. And even new camshaft and valvetrain possibly.
Click to expand...
I usually wait until page 2 rolls around before I post, so that the infighting can wrap up.
What everybody said is probably right.
However, if you are at altitude, say over 4000ft and want an honest 350hp, IMO everybody is wrong. And the reason is that unless you get the Scr up, she will be a lazy stinking dog off the line and all the way to about 3000rpm., and then be a lil less lazy for the rest if the way. EDIT; Ok let me rephrase that for Rusty; "she will be a lazy stinking dog off the line" should read; she will PROBABLY be a lazy stinking dog off the line
I strongly urge you to find out more about that cam. The most important spec to try and find, is the Intake Closing Angle. And, you gotta ascertain the local elevation at which the engine will be operating. Without these two data points, I fear that you will be in for a big disappointment.
As for the 71 block going to 4.04, mine did, and by it's trapspeed of 93 in the Eighth, is making about 430 hp.......... at ~900ft elevation. This build was pretty "basic".

If there is no way of finding the cam-spec, then you will have to measure it, which really is not that big a deal.
 
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