Yep, cause only you know and everyone else is trash...
Someone mentioned altitude VERY early on, so you must be wrong mentioning altitude if you stick with what you wrote. Well done!
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Heads for mild 360 build
- Thread starter ratty dart 340
- Start date
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Yep, cause only you know and everyone else is trash...
Someone mentioned altitude VERY early on, so you must be wrong mentioning altitude if you stick with what you wrote. Well done!
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
- Joined
- Jan 19, 2014
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- 25,857
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and the beat goes on now on page 2
Don't use my name in anything you talk about.
ratty dart 340
Well-Known Member
Ok thank you for the responses. No need for everyone to get in a bad mood over some conflicting ideas. It is my fault, since i did not mention the state of my heads. I agree that if these J heads are redone, i will be happy with the power. I have yet to pull the heads, because i have been chasing many other problems from when i got the car. The car sat in a field for 20 years before i bought it. With some work and a new carb, she idles excellent and the heads work as they should. In no way am I saying they don't need to be taken off and re-examined, I have a good idea of how much work they need. I think I will re-build them very well, as long as the price is less than a better aluminum head. Thanks for the input.Maybe.... and maybe they were professionally redone with the cam swap and have a 5 angle valve job....
Read his question again: "My question is, what heads would you recommend for my situation" Look, it's this simple: The Op wanted to know "what heads" to make 350+ hp. I said "J" heads will work for that goal. I stand by that. IF his are junk, then they are junk. He didn't ASK if his were good. He ASKED what heads to reach a goal, and I answered the question.
Now, feel free to answer the OP's question and say what heads YOU would recommend
ratty dart 340
Well-Known Member
once again, no need for a petty argument. It was my fault i did not declare the state of my heads. If these stock heads do need a monumental amount of work, then i may go with a cheaper aluminum set. Thanks for the info.
ratty dart 340
Well-Known Member
Interesting. Sad i missed that deal. However, still might try to really make this engine nice. Do you think you could send the link to heads you are referring to?
ratty dart 340
Well-Known Member
Ok very insightful. Im not worried about it being slow off the line. It has a ford 9 inch with brand new 3.55's. These are less aggresive than what it had in it, however, once i finish installing this rear end, i will be able to have 11 inches or rubber per wheel in the back. Yes, 11 inches. The rims are american racing outlaws, which are kind of centerline knockoffs. I can't find these rims anywhere, becuase they are 10 inches wide. With the setup i have now, with the engine and rear end, I think it will launch relativly quick. Yes I am aware that at a certain horsepower and torque, the tires and rear end don't matter too much. I think once it's said and done, even at bandimere speedway(5,700ft) it would still be up to my liking.
You know, maybe not... 5700ft is pretty damn high
ratty dart 340
Well-Known Member
Also, I fail to see how us "motorheads", get so caught up in such goofy arguments. I know some of it is friendly banter, but let's just appreciate this amazing hobby we share..
Anyways, thanks for all the information. I will pull the heads in 2-3 weeks, but I have college finals to focus on before then. If i pull the heads and they are in better shape than I was expecting, I will take the time and do a nice rebuild/ freshen up. If they are junk(they really could be), I will start looking for aftermarket. If i do chose aftermarket I will reference this forum, and if anyone has any other Head suggestions, i would greatly appreciate them.
Cheers,
Anyways, thanks for all the information. I will pull the heads in 2-3 weeks, but I have college finals to focus on before then. If i pull the heads and they are in better shape than I was expecting, I will take the time and do a nice rebuild/ freshen up. If they are junk(they really could be), I will start looking for aftermarket. If i do chose aftermarket I will reference this forum, and if anyone has any other Head suggestions, i would greatly appreciate them.
Cheers,
As mentioned early on. If you want a true 400+hp FWHP out of a 360 running at 5700' altitude, it's going to take a some work and be closer to a 500hp engine build at sea level. That will come with all the issues of associated with a 500hp build in a driver car.
For me, not being made of money, I look at it from the "all in" approach. Stock iron works fine if you want to dump money into them. Figure out that cost, if you plan to apply some elbow grease and port them a little or farm that out, etc. See where the buck lands. Then check out alternatives.
Here is the SM mopar SB head page.
www.speedmaster79.com
There are many in here that have done a lot more than others that parrot things have even dreamed of. I think you bought a headlight kit or something else from me is the main reason I chimed in and mentioned altitude as a barrier.
Good luck and be careful who you take advice from in here, they never miss a beat.
For me, not being made of money, I look at it from the "all in" approach. Stock iron works fine if you want to dump money into them. Figure out that cost, if you plan to apply some elbow grease and port them a little or farm that out, etc. See where the buck lands. Then check out alternatives.
Here is the SM mopar SB head page.
Engines & Components > Cylinder Heads
www.speedmaster79.com
There are many in here that have done a lot more than others that parrot things have even dreamed of. I think you bought a headlight kit or something else from me is the main reason I chimed in and mentioned altitude as a barrier.
Good luck and be careful who you take advice from in here, they never miss a beat.
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I wasn't trying to be petty with any of my comments. I have to look at everything through the lenses of a very limited budget, so I always zoom in on cost. Your question regarding "can it be done with stock casting heads" had already been answered more than once, so I felt no need to address that further. I wanted to make damn SURE you knew that following that path COULD get expensive QUICKLY and to simply be careful. Some people tried to tell me how I was "supposed" to answer and to me THAT was petty, so I fired back. My apologies to you however on your thread. I won't be giving any further advice here, on youtube or anywhere else. I pulled the plug on my youtube channel earlier tonight. From here on out, I'm just me in middle Georgia.
I see Crackedback already posted a link for the Speedmaster heads. I think they are a decent head for the money. I've bought 3 sets of them, 2 small block sets and one big block set. I have only used one set as of now, and they have been on my Duster for 2 years with no issue, but I do not drive it very often.
- If I answer anymore here on FABO, I just try to answer "the direct question" asked by any OP without any other input just to try to avoid it all, but even then it isn't good enough.
- You didn't say what your budget was....... Edelbrock heads, Trick Flow heads, or even look hard at PROMAXX heads. PROMAXX is priced really reasonable and I know somebody that has ran them. Of course, Speedmaster as well. However, if your J heads are decent, you can achieve your goals in your first post with them as well and very well could be your best option budget wise (which is why i posted what I posted in post 2)
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ratty dart 340
Well-Known Member
No man you’re fine. I appreciate the advice and the budget. I wasn’t particularly calling you petty. I would appreciate if you kept commenting on my threads, as I do value your opinion greatly
74 360 dart sport
Well-Known Member
I run the promaxx heads on my 360 build the engine builder told me by the time you have me rebuild my 2.02 j heads with hardened seats and any porting I would have more in my cast iron heads then buying the promaxx without having to port them and have way more flow I really like them and have no issues my builder bought them bare and built it to my hp spec very happy with the results
I understand and appreciate that, but this has been a long time coming. It's not your fault. Some of these guys cannot understand that everything isn't about them all the time. They think they're under attack when someone has a differing opinion. That's just not an attack. Just don't forget that there's more than one way to do things.
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Like Eddie said. Let's get back to the music guys.
All y'all are all wrong. Since he's at at elevation, and money is no object when you're spending someone elses'...
In all seriousness, just get some of these books like it read, read and read in the bathroom. You are going to have to do a lot of reading regardless. The thing is NOBODY can tell you what YOU want. Find out what is out there, and graph out what the result is on the desires curve compared to the price and work curve.
Spend time reading up on how to pick cams, how to pick gearing, manual vs automatic, clutches/torque converters, SUSPENSION.
Check out the racer's forum and the Post your ___ second combos here threads.
You will get all kinds of opinions and advice, and it will only end up being as good as the information you provide in your questions. I double dog dare you to just go to the websites of custom cam grinders or torque converter builders and get any kind of cogent answer with the info you have provided. You need to know enough to ask the right questions to get the answers you need. Spend a lot of time researching the theory behind building air pumps (engines) on youtube Chrysler, Ford, Chevy, Honda, Toyota, Fiat, Leyland, Yugo et cetera. There may be a lot of crap info out there, but eventually you'll get a decent grip on how it all works, from putting liquid potential energy through your fuel lines all the way through converting that into kinetic energy and exhaust gasses.
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Dan the man
Well-Known Member
I don't mean to high Jack his thread, but what other budget aftermarket heads aluminum or iron would work for him or me for that matter?Speedmasters would fill the bill too. He just missed the 40% sale
see post 37
Dan the man
Well-Known Member
K. thanks
SixPaksRule
Well-Known Member
Build the 360 like a 340
balanced rotating assy
cast pistons will work just fine
2.02 iron heads
split lift/split duration cam not too big 480 lift max 110 ctr line
thermoquad or 6 pak
true 9:1 compression
340 exhaust manifolds
Don't forget the timing change tensioner!!!
you will be surprised
balanced rotating assy
cast pistons will work just fine
2.02 iron heads
split lift/split duration cam not too big 480 lift max 110 ctr line
thermoquad or 6 pak
true 9:1 compression
340 exhaust manifolds
Don't forget the timing change tensioner!!!
you will be surprised
PRH
Well-Known Member
5700’ ??
Sounds like stroker time to me
As Crackedback mentioned, 400 STP HP is a pretty far cry from an actual 400hp as it sits between the fenders when you’re parked at 5700’.
I’d be surprised if the machine shop prices in Colorado are low enough that refurbishing/updating factory heads is very cost effective.
Sounds like stroker time to me
As Crackedback mentioned, 400 STP HP is a pretty far cry from an actual 400hp as it sits between the fenders when you’re parked at 5700’.
I’d be surprised if the machine shop prices in Colorado are low enough that refurbishing/updating factory heads is very cost effective.
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I guess I have missed where the OP ever stated 400 hp. I read 350+. I must have missed it5700’ ??
Sounds like stroker time to me
As Crackedback mentioned, 400 STP HP is a pretty far cry from an actual 400hp as it sits between the fenders when you’re parked at 5700’.
I’d be surprised if the machine shop prices in Colorado are low enough that refurbishing/updating factory heads is very cost effective.
PRH
Well-Known Member
No worries.......
350 STP hp would be about 260-ish actual at the crank hp with the engine burning gas at 5700’.
350 STP hp would be about 260-ish actual at the crank hp with the engine burning gas at 5700’.
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